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With orchid shapes superimposed on the walls, orchid prints on the dresses and petals of fabric enfolding the models’ bodies, the Valentino collection for spring/summer 2010 was as precious and exotic as a tropical flower.
In this, their second ready-to-wear collection for the de luxe brand, the designers, Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli, defined a femininity so delicate, the models appeared like will ‘o the wisps; fragile fairies, in diaphanous fabrics. They were balanced on spike heels as slender as a thread of gossamer, but almost appeared to float. Some of the shoes, embellished with coral-like adornments of lace and tulle, were specially created by the London-based milliner, Philip Treacy. Others were flat and adorned with satin ribbons.
The colours were of the palest hues; the merest hint of lilac, blush-pink, buttermilk-lemon, beige, as transparent as a moth, and grey as light smoke. The fabrics - silk, organza, chiffon and tulle – were semi-sheer and appeared like clouds around the girls’ bodies.
Flounces framed the face; ruffles defined the short, balletic skirts; and frills cascaded down the lengthlines of slim, column gowns. Shimmering confections of lace, beading, crystals and mesh were transformed into loose tunics, worn over the tutu-like skirts.
In more contemporary fashion, these luxury T-shirts, often backless, came with skinny jeans in silk chiffon over lace, while orchid-print, organza tops, fastened at the base of the spine, over bare skin, were worn with appliquéd, leather jeans. A leather biker jacket and matching mini-skirt, in cappuccino-coloured leather, embellished with leather flowers, appeared slightly more robust and suited to real-life.
Black made an occasional appearance, most sumptuously in a strapless, silk-chiffon, all-in-one, layered over a black, lace body.
The entire collection was a departure for the Chiuri-Piccioli partnership, in that there was little evidence of recourse to the Valentino archives.
One appreciates their desire to move away from accusations of replicating the brand’s famous, jet set signatures. But the pale palette could have done with just one shot of Valentino red.
That's what I don't get! Alessandra was doing the same thing and did it better. I do not understand how Valentino likes this, but not Alessandra's vision.
Leeroi said:Alessandra barely lasted a year. These two have lasted longer than her, so he must be liking it.