Virginie Viard - Designer, Creative Director of Chanel

[fashionista-ta]

Designers these days lack any individuality let alone personality and may as well be assembly-line robots that churn out mid-range department-store offerings: Virginie and Maria Grazia exemplify this new conservatism in the industry so frighteningly on point. (And just throw down some shallow “feminist” slogan so no one dares accuse you of mediocrity.)

I was curious on what Karl said that was perceived as “Islamophobia”, and what he said was :“You cannot kill millions of Jews and then take in millions of their worst enemies afterwards, even if there are decades [between the two events].” Chanel’s Karl Lagerfeld claims Muslim migrants are ‘affront to Holocaust victims’ | World | The Times Admittedly a rather insensitive generalization that’s more classist than racist/xenophobic. He’s not wrong in that he was likely referencing the conflict between Israelis and Palestinians. But of course people immediately ignore the reference and context and race to accuse him as anti-Muslim :sigh:

(Back in 1993, Karl designed a Chanel HC collection in tribute to his Muslim clientele. But they protested for his use of scriptures from the Quran as fashion accents and all pieces were immediately burned out of respect. He may be insensitive to the changing times, but to still brand him as “islamophobic” is so delberately ridiculous.)

I find it quite ironic that a German referenced the Holocaust and implied that Muslims were the enemy in question. He is 100% wrong, there is nothing right about what he said. The Holocaust was wrong, and refusing asylum to Muslims is also wrong. Karl didn't seem to understand that the common ground between Germans, Jews, and Muslims is that all are human beings. And we should have no sworn enemies based on religion or ethnicity, something plenty of Jews, Muslims, and no doubt Germans know.

 

[Creative]

To be honest, she's not very talented as a designer, but I don't want to see someone else at Chanel. It's kind of selfish I think. At least, she was part of Lagerfeld's circle and she's been there all her life. What she does is almost the same Karl did.

I wouldn't like to see an Alessandro or a Demna at Chanel, "burning" the brand in two seasons and seeking attention desperately. I rather have her, with her mediocre offerings, than seeing Chanel become the next fashion caricature.

And I agree with the one that said Chanel is more luxurious than any other brand, for me even more than Hermès also.

 

[kasper!]

I notice that more and more clients are complaining the quality of the garments online....even those Métiers collections. (source:xiaohongshu)

 

[JohannesL]

I highly doubt that the quality of Chanel is not on par with its price tag. Is it possible that those are fakes because I have seen a lot of fakes flooding the second-hand market? Now we need our very own Chanel expert Lola to answer our questions!

 

[fashionista-ta]

^ There have been observations on tFS in the past that the quality of Chanel dropped noticeably after the GFC in 2008 ... you may be right about the above item. Not my area of expertise Chanel is a bit too expected for me ...

 

[Frederic01]

CHANEL’S MÉTIERS D’ART COLLECTION RETURNS TO PARIS
HISTORICALLY KNOWN AS A TRAVELING SHOW, THE HOUSE IS BRINGING THEIR READY-TO-WEAR COLLECTION BACK HOME TO PARIS


JULY 19TH 2021

Home is where the heart is when it comes to Chanel’s upcoming Métiers d’Art show. On December 7, 2021, the house will unveil its Métiers d’Art collection in the French capital: Paris, also known as the fashion capital of the world.

While Métiers d’Art collection is typically a traveling show held anywhere from Dallas to Edinburgh, Chanel is bringing the show back home to Paris because the brand strongly believes it is too early to revert to business as usual, following COVID-19 restrictions. Furthermore, Creative Director Virginie Viard sees the benefits of more intimate venues, staging her Fall 2021 Haute Couture show at the Palais Galliera fashion museum.

No matter the venue, Métiers d’Art collection celebrates the savior-faire of fine craftsmanship and honors the fashion manufactories that undoubtedly enhance the brand’s creations. This collection is dedicated to these artisanal skills, and is the only ready-to-wear collection of its kind ⁠— made with the commitment of honoring all the makers who create exceptional pieces.

crfashionbook.com/

 

[Lola701]

I highly doubt that the quality of Chanel is not on par with its price tag. Is it possible that those are fakes because I have seen a lot of fakes flooding the second-hand market? Now we need our very own Chanel expert Lola to answer our questions!

Ahah!
I’m here for you my dear…

Tbh, I don’t really care for Virginie’s stuff. I care more about the arrival of Nicolas’s clothes in the stores right now.
There’s a problem in terms of quality of design at Chanel first so…

But, Karl’s clothes used to be heavily detailed while looking quite « subtle ». It’s the contrary for Virginie. A lot of stuff feels overpriced but, part of the experience of buying Chanel (as you can’t have it on e-commerce) even more Metiers d’Arts is to have it altered and fitted to you the day you purchase and look at details…

Tbh, what is in the picture can be easily fixed. But I haven’t bought anything by Virginie so far…I’m just not interested.

Quality issues regarding bags and costume jewelry has been a subject for quite some time now. But so far, when it comes to bags, I can’t complain.

But tbh, there’s always somehow a change of quality at any house depending on the creative director change…Some are more invested or interested in fabrics than others. Givenchy is a great example. In 5 years, the quality has drastically shifted in terms of finishing or fabrics.

 

[kasper!]

I highly doubt that the quality of Chanel is not on par with its price tag. Is it possible that those are fakes because I have seen a lot of fakes flooding the second-hand market? Now we need our very own Chanel expert Lola to answer our questions!

This jacket is from Pre-Fall 2021 Look 14 (also one of the most popular jackets from this collection...) and I don't think it's fake. No some many fake dealers are interested to weave the exact same tweed texture from seasonal RTW items, right?

 

[JohannesL]

This jacket is from Pre-Fall 2021 Look 14 (also one of the most popular jackets from this collection...) and I don't think it's fake. No some many fake dealers are interested to weave the exact same tweed texture from seasonal RTW items, right?

You are right, that's another case for Metiers d'art though.

 

[Caffeine]

I notice that more and more clients are complaining the quality of the garments online....even those Métiers collections. (source:xiaohongshu)

View attachment 1180854

This particular piece does have loosely woven tweed and pilling issues. Karl had this type of tweeds before also, but I guess they didn't last long enough for people to talk about them?
The leather strap can be easily fixed by a tailor.
On the other hand, if you charge 8k for a jacket you'd better make sure that it lasts ages.

 

[velvetandsilk]

This particular piece does have loosely woven tweed and pilling issues.

Maybe they used short fibre which cause this kind of problem, but then production of textile is faster and cheaper.

 

[Frederic01]

A preview of the Métiers d’art collection, which will be held in Paris at Le19M on the 7th of December.


CHANEL

 

[Frederic01]

Chanel to Hold Métiers d’Art Show in New Hub for Craftsmanship in Paris
The French luxury house plans to stage the display on Dec. 7 at Le19M, a center for specialty workshops designed by architect Rudy Ricciotti.

BY JOELLE DIDERICH / OCTOBER 14, 2021, 8:22AM


Chanel's Le19M craftsmanship hub in Paris. CHLOE LE RESTE/COURTESY OF CHANEL

CRAFTY APPROACH: Chanel is ready to give the world a first glimpse of its new hub for craftsmanship on the edge of Paris.

The French luxury house said on Thursday that its Métiers d’Art show, scheduled for Dec. 7, would take place at Le19M, a striking center for specialty workshops designed by architect Rudy Ricciotti and located near Porte d’Aubervilliers, a working-class area north of Paris.

“By choosing Le19M as the backdrop to the 2021-22 Métiers d’Art show, Chanelreaffirms its desire to celebrate this exceptional artisanal heritage, the very cornerstone of French fashion and luxury’s influence around the world,” the house said in a statement.

With a surface of close to 275,000 square feet, the building has been home since March to 600 people working for the ateliers responsible for producing the Métiers d’Art collection, which was launched in 2002 to celebrate the craftsmanship of the suppliers and workshops in Chanel’s orbit.

Le19M brings together embroiderer and tweed-maker Lesage, its embroidery school and Lesage Intérieurs; embroidery workshop Montex and its decoration department MTX; shoemaker Massaro; feather- and flower-maker Lemarié; milliner Maison Michel; pleater Lognon; grand flou atelier Paloma, and goldsmith Goossens. It also houses swimwear and lingerie brand Eres.

Traditionally a traveling show that has alighted in destinations including Shanghai; Rome; Edinburgh, Scotland; Salzburg, Austria, and Dallas, the Métiers d’Art display was held in Paris in December 2019 in the wake of the death of Chanel’s longtime creative director Karl Lagerfeld earlier in the year.

Faced with the restrictions of the coronavirus pandemic in 2020, his successor Virginie Viard chose to film the collection at the Château de Chenonceau in the Loire Valley last December in front of a single VIP guest: Kristen Stewart.

Unlike some of its competitors, Chanel has not staged any major events outside of its domestic market since COVID-19 triggered the first of several rounds of lockdowns in France in March 2020. It is due to break its recent streak of French shows with a repeat presentation of its cruise 2022 collection on Nov. 2 in Dubai.

WWD.COM/

 

[helmutnotdead]

Guess who’s the new Head of Image at Chanel…

 

[Frederic01]

Guess who’s the new Head of Image at Chanel…

Emmanuelle Walle, no?

Chanel Appoints New Head of Fashion PR

Emmanuelle Walle has been head of global PR and influence at Chanel fragrance and beauty since 2019.

BY MILES SOCHA / NOVEMBER 8, 2021, 1:38PM

Chanel plucked the next international director of press relations and public relations for its fashion activities from the fragrance and beauty division, WWD has learned.

Emmanuelle Walle, head of global PR and influence at Chanel fragrance and beauty since 2019, is to take up her new role on Jan. 3, 2022, reporting to Bruno Pavlovsky, president of Chanel fashion and Chanel SAS.

“In this key position, Emmanuelle will take part in the transformations under way within the image and fashion communications departments and will continue to place press relations at the heart of fashion in close collaboration with Virginie Viard and Marion Destenay,” Chanel said in an internal announcement seen by WWD, referring to its creative director and fashion image director, respectively. “Relations with the press and influencers are more essential than ever to promote the creation and embody Chanel’s vision of fashion to our audiences.”

Among Walle’s high-profile projects at Chanel fragrances and beauty was the 100th anniversary of Chanel No.5 perfume and the botanical exhibition “La Beauté Se Cultive” (or “Cultivating Beauty”).

Before joining Chanel, Walle worked in various marketing and communications roles at Bonpoint, Cartier and L’Oréal. She started her career in editorial roles at various French magazines and websites, including French Vogue, Marie Claire, Le Point and Mixte.

Walle’s successor at Chanel fragrance and beauty has yet to be named.

Walle succeeds Laurence Delamare, who has been named director of 7L and fashion editorial narrative. The landmark Left Bank bookstore 7L was established by Karl Lagerfeld in 1999 and specializes in photo books. Delamare has been at Chanel since 2004.

Chanel quietly acquired 7L last March. A press release explains that the French maison “is extending the attachment to books shared by both Gabrielle Chanel and Karl Lagerfeld, all while preserving the exceptional character of this unique place.”

Also at Chanel, Elsa Heizmann has been named director of fashion’s relationship with cinema, also reporting to Pavlovsky.

Marie-Louise de Clermont-Tonnerre, who initiated Chanel’s public relations department in 1971, recently exited the French fashion house after an illustrious career spanning 50 years.

WWD.COM/

 

[helmutnotdead]

nope…

 

[Frederic01]

nope…

Who is it helmutnotdead? The anticipation! Haha!

 

[helmutnotdead]

Who is it helmutnotdead? The anticipation! Haha!

someone who’s going to help A LOT

 

[Frederic01]

^^ Emmanuelle Alt?!

 

[LostInNJ]

someone who’s going to help A LOT

You can't be bothered to just say who it is?