Asian Faces In High Fashion

[Prymasquous]

Highest achievements for Vogue covers:

Ujjwala Raut: Vogue India

Lakshmi Menon: Vogue India +

Bhumika Arora: Vogue India

Pooja Mor: Vogue Italia, Vogue India

Radhika Nair: Vogue UK

Dipti Sharma: n/a

Kelly Gale: n/a

Neelam Gill: n/a

Saffron Vadher: n/a

My mistake. Pooja also covered Vogue Arabia May 2017. Three total.

And forget to add Yasmeen Ghauri, not sure how many covers she had (more than a dozen I think?).



Would be interesting to see whether Arabia will cast an East Asian model (or SE Asian) for their cover, and when will that be. Have been thinking about this...



On the same subject, to echo some members, it was a missed opportunity for Sora and a VI cover for June (like dang, even Asians can't get a cover among multiple covers). She should be getting a Vogue cover, after all she's the top Asian star. A VJ cover should happen by the hands of Del Moro and Luigi & Iango, that's an easier/likely option. Or VC would be nice too.

 

[Tesanger jen]

Tuhir B was exclusive for LV, but then he also walked at Cerruti.

 

[Prymasquous]

Dries Van Noten SS19 - Paris (C)

Tsubasa Satou, Han Ji, Wang Chenming, Jaeyoung Na, Arun Gupta,
Kohei Takabatake, Ye Xiang, Li Yufeng,
Yang Hao, Bomchan Lee, Yu Hang & Kyung Jin Park

SS19 - 12 models, 14 looks, Chenming leading finale, closed

FW18 - 6 models, 13 looks, Tsubasa last leading finale

SS18 - 7 models

FW17 - 4 models, 5 looks

SS17 - 5 models, 7 looks

FW16 - 3 models

SS16 - 5 models

FW15 - 5 models, 7 looks

SS15 - 2 models

FW14 - 4 models

SS14 - 3 models

FW13 - 2 models, 3 looks

SS13 - 2 models

FW12 - 1 model

SS12 - 0 model

FW11 - 0 model

SS11 - 0 model

FW10 - 0 model

SS10 - 0 model

FW09 - 1 model

SS09 - 1 model

FW08 - 0 model

SS08 - 1 model, 2 looks

FW07 - 1 model, 2 looks

SS07 - 0 model



Top three walkers: Chenming (8 consecutively), Bomchan & Kyung Jin (tied 6x)

Frankly it's suspicious for Dries Van Noten to have this multitude of Asians
in his lineup too. An all-time high!

Like any brand starting out it's typical to take baby steps until the growth and
recognition become more apparent on a global scale.
Maybe that was what happened in 2015 with the shift in its casting?
Reviewing past casts it looked honest and not calculated or forced
to make room for diversity, or any devious intention.
They have shown loyalty, consistency and a mark on the DVN man,
at least recently (the same could be said for women's show).

It doesn't seem like this cast derived of sales or Asian theme related.
Perhaps with the news of the house now majority owned by Puig Group, could this be
their way of conducting business and implementing an approach that is
more inclusive of the foreseeable future of the brand, possibly
to wider its range sensibly and financially?

Or this was simply a very colourful, genuine, and inviting collective cast
in the progression of Dries Van Noten, and nothing to hide.

instagram/driesvannoten & wwd.com
​

 

[Prymasquous]

SooJoo got the Moschino FW18 campaign!

Major for Soojoo, best of the bunch! Don't recall her shooting w/ Meisel, but more importantly glad the loyalty and friendship have translated into a campaign. Just how many times they've worked together, crazy good.

Asian Male Models Top Walker S/S 2019

Cool post! Many debuts that looked promising. But goodness, starting to realise how brutal Men's shows are... casting wise.

Nice to see the South Asian boys in Top 10. All that talking finally coming into action.

 

[mathiaskatz]

thanks to Plax and Prym always for quality posts!

Tommy also opened Kenzo, not sure if that was counted!

 

[Plax]

thanks to Plax and Prym always for quality posts!

Tommy also opened Kenzo, not sure if that was counted!

I count it, but forgot to write it.

 

[Tesanger jen]

Chunjie Liu got Ermanno Scervino campaign.

 

[Prymasquous]

Such a breath of fresh air. Literally.
Or a relief the moment Virgil Abloh was announced as the new artistic director.

The receipts say their casts were rigid and operated on a quota system -
nothing in their casting history says genuine of Asian models (or MOC for that matter).
Granted, there probably weren't that many Asian working models, say 2010 and before,
but there were definitely some (Philip, Allen Tsai, Shih Han Hsiao, Daniel Liu).
True, one or two model is better than none, but that also exemplify the essence
of tokenism and deploying tactic to perhaps, avoid, backlash?
That's not honest. Business sense? Yes.

Nothing is perfect, everyone will not agree, but the casting on Vuitton's part
were merely just for show. Why can't casting just be a natural process
regardless of racial background, and why almost always have to be quantified...
We know politics has their way of maneuvering through casting
and how they are contributors - both bad and good outcomes could rise out,
but what is really going to benefit the brand as a whole.

For the most part it's astounding for such a renown brand like Louis Vuitton
to have gone down this route knowing what we know now and looking back.
Then again, people weren't advocating on Asian male models' behalf
were they, probably not as galvanized as today's climate.

A new day. A fresh start. A new order has been set with more hope comes 2019.


Daanisj Mahabier, Mustafa Godhrawala, Yu Hang, Xu Bing Chao,
Mathieu Simoneau, Kohei Takabatake, Elvis Wu,
Xu Meen, Tuhir Brahmbhatt, Yifu Hu & Tommy van den Meersche





instagram/louisvuitton, wwd.com & youtube

Vigril Abloh: present (green)

Kim Jones: 2011 - 2018 (blue)

Paul Helbers: 2006 - 2011 (red)


Kohei & Ye Xiang were most cast with three shows


SS19 - 11 models

FW18 - 2 models

SS18 - 2 models

FW17 - 2 models

SS17 - 0 model

FW16 - 2 models

SS16 - 2 models

FW15 - 2 models

SS15 - 0 model

FW14 - 1 model

SS14 - 0 model

FW13 - 0 model

SS13 - 0 model

FW12 - 2 models

SS12 - 0 model

FW11 - 0 model

SS11 - 0 model

FW10 - 0 model

SS10 - 0 model

FW09 - 1 model

SS09 - 0 model

FW08 - 0 model

SS08 - 0 model

​

 

[Prymasquous]

Updated.

FALL/WINTER 2018 CAMPAIGNS


Adesuwa Aighewi: Fendi (rumoured)

Charlene Almarvez: Juicy Couture (according to member, santosmimi94)

Chunjie Liu: Ermanno Scervino (released)

Cong He: Lime Flare (confirmed)

Dylan Xue: Emporio Armani (released)

Fei Fei Sun: Max Mara Pre-Fall (released)

Hoyeon Jung: Chanel (rumoured)

Hyunji Shin: Dolce & Gabbana (confirmed)

Hyunjoo Hwang: Elegant Prosper Jeans (released)

Issa Lish: Juicy Couture Juicy Couture (according to member, santosmimi94)

Leah Chen: Elegant Prosper Jeans (released)

Ling Chen: Addiction by Ayako (released)

Luping Wang: Giorgio Armani (released)

Sohyun Jung: A.P.C. Pre-Fall (released)

Soojoo Park: Moschino (released)

Sora Choi: Bottega Veneta Pre-Fall (released)

Yoon Young Bae: Fendi (rumoured)

Random, and could be anything or means nothing, but why was Hyunji w/ Sasha? What happened in Barcelona?

[​

 

[Prymasquous]

Raf Simons SS19 - Paris (C)

Han Ji, Akito Mizutani, Jaeyoung Na, Kohei Takabatake, Mathieu Simoneau & Yang Hao

Total of 13 appearances


SS19 - 6 models + closed

FW18 - 1 model but three looks

SS18 - 3 models

FW17 - 0 models

SS17 - 0 models

FW16 - 0 models

SS16 - 0 models

FW15 - 1 model

SS15 - 0 model

FW14 - 0 model

SS14 - 2 models

FW13 - 0 model

SS13 - 0 model

FW12 - 0 model

SS12 - 0 model

FW11 - 0 model

SS11 - 0 model

FW10 - 0 model

SS10 - 0 model

Finally.
The eponymous label of Raf Simons and Lucas Ossendrijver of Lanvin both had
their best cast, equally the same. Six was the magic number this season.

What prompt for this surge in Asian models on this particular time?
Just coincidence and a feeling?

Could this be a new take in its casting, like D&G and Fendi, or will this be a one-off show?
Looking at their record no one should hold their breath, but it is the year 2019...




Lanvin SS19 - Paris

Ye Xiang, Akito Mizutani, Xu Meen, Siyuan Huang, Xie Chenglin & Elvis Wu

Total of 23 appearances


SS19 - 6 models

FW18 - 2 models

SS18 - 3 models

FW17 - 1 model

SS17 - 1 model

FW16 - 3 models

SS16 - 2 models

FW15 - 3 models

SS15 - 0 model

FW14 - 0 model

SS14 - 0 model

FW13 - 0 model

SS13 - 0 model

FW12 - 2 models

SS12 - 0 model

FW11 - 0 model

SS11 - 0 model

FW10 - 0 model

SS10 - 0 model

nowfashion.com, nymag.com, wwd.com & youtube ​

 

[dfwn2n]

Lanvin, a fashion house that has Asian owners had never featured Asian models for their campaigns. This would never happen if it were to own by Black owners. I don't know why the people who hold so much power don't make an effort to give Asian models more exposure.

 

[Cute]

Luping also got the Juicy Couture fragrance campaign and Sora got the Fendi Pre-Fall bags campaign (at least I think it's a campaign).

 

[Prymasquous]

Li Ning SS19 - Paris

Ye Xiang, Jeong Yongsoo, Mathieu Simoneau, Ni Haoran, Zhu Cong,
Gong Guohao, Elvis Wu, Xu Meen,
Xu Bing Chao, Xie Chenglin & Jeenu Mahadevan





vogue.com


Need more global recognition? Notoriety?
Aspiration to become a fashion game changer in the realm of sportswear brands?


Li Ning would like that.
And that's what he did this season staging its second display in Paris after
their New York debut last fall collection, testing their feet in international boundaries.

Despite being a powerhouse in its native country of China, Li Ning, like any
Western brand branching out to their potential customers (the Asian demographic for example),
you bet you've got to step up your game and fall in line, and deliver.

And that's just mental preparation, but Li's show did just that, it delivered
in the sense the majority of male models were Caucasian,
and the important roles of opening/closing the show by white models.
Standard procedure and for starters, but certainly strong signals
that the brand is serious and hungry to be accepted and responsive to a whole new base
that could help them attain their goal.

.

As a sidenote, in speaking of Asian designers and brands,
it's still commendable that Li Ning haven't abandoned its core cast of Asian models
for an all-white cast. After all, it did its job and got the greater half being white models
which was the premise of going international.

Overall it was well-cast, good strategy and did the right things.

SS19

Caucasian: 17 models / 17 looks
Asian: 11 models / 11 looks



FW18

Caucasian: 8 models / 11 looks
Asian: 6 models / 9 looks

instagram/lining.official ​

 

[Prymasquous]

Acne Studios SS19 - Paris

Good to know info:


Best season: SS19

Arun & Chenming most book with two shows

Altogether, 13 out of 269 looks went to Asian models (excluding lookbook years); one look per Asian model - never two looks for them

Year that saw strong inclusion: 2018



SS19 - 6 of 40 looks

FW18 - 4 of 26 looks + opened

SS18 - 2 of 23 looks

FW17 - 0 of 24 looks

SS17 - 0 of 24 looks

FW16 - 0 of 22 looks

SS16 - 0 of 13 looks (lookbook format, 1 model)

FW15 - 0 of 15 looks (lookbook format, 4 models)

SS15 - 0 of 15 looks (lookbook format, 2 models)

FW14 - 0 of 16 looks (lookbook format, 1 model)

SS14 - 0 of 14 looks (lookbook format, 1 model)

FW13 - 0 of 15 looks (lookbook format, 1 model)

SS13 - 0 of 21 looks

FW12 - 0 of 30 looks

SS12 - 0 of 30 looks

FW11 - 1 of 29 looks

SS11 - 0 of 12 looks (lookbook format, 1 model)

Akito Mizutani, Zhicehng Liu, Wang Chenming, Xu Meen, Kaito Defoort & Arun Gupta






Alexander McQueen SS19 - Paris

Good to know info:


Best season: FW08

Jeenu most book with three shows

Altogether, 18 out of 622 looks went to Asian models (excluding lookbook years); one look per Asian model - never two looks for them

Year that saw strong inclusion: 2018



SS19 - 4 of 41 looks

FW18 - 3 of 40 looks

SS18 - 2 of 39 looks

FW17 - 1 model (lookbook format, 8 models)

SS17 - 0 model (lookbook format, 4 models)

FW16 - 1 of 32 looks

SS16 - 0 of 34 looks

FW15 - 0 of 32 looks

SS15 - 0 of 28 looks

FW14 - 0 of 29 looks

SS14 - 0 of 28 looks

FW13 - 0 of 28 looks

SS13 - 0 of 34 looks (lookbook format, 2 models)

FW12 - 0 of 34 looks (lookbook format, 2 models)

SS12 - 0 of 34 looks

FW11 - 0 of 33 looks

SS11 - 0 of 21 looks

FW10 - 2 of 36 looks

SS10 - 0 of 24 looks (lookbook format, 1 model)

FW09 - 0 of 45 looks

SS09 - 0 of 35 looks

FW08 - 6 of 44 looks, Indian-inspired

SS08 - 0 of 43 looks

Mustafa Godhrawala, Jeenu Mahadevan, Yang Hao & Ye Xiang






Valentino SS19 - Paris

Good to know info:


Best season: SS19

Wang Hao most book with three shows

Altogether, 14 out of 740 looks went to Asian models (excluding lookbook years); one look per Asian model - never two looks for them

Year that saw strong inclusion: 2018-ish



SS19 - 4 of 62 looks

FW18 - 2 of 48 looks

SS18 - 2 of 51 looks

FW17 - 3 of 51 looks

SS17 - 1 of 53 looks

FW16 - 1 of 81 looks

SS16 - 1 of 73 looks

FW15 - 0 of 53 looks

SS15 - 0 of 52 looks

FW14 - 0 of 50 looks

SS14 - 0 of 47 looks

FW13 - 0 of 45 looks

SS13 - 0 of 38 looks

FW12 - 0 of 36 looks

SS12 - 0 of 24 looks (lookbook format, 1 model)

Wang Chenming, Kim Jaeseung, Mustafa Godhrawala & Jeong Yongsoo



wwd.com ​

 

[bluebanter]

Luping also got the Juicy Couture fragrance campaign and Sora got the Fendi Pre-Fall bags campaign (at least I think it's a campaign).

According to Models.com, its the Fendi Pre-Fall 2018 Accessories Campaign

 

[Prymasquous]

Hermes SS19 - Paris

Zhang Wenhui, Gong Guohao, Bomchan Lee & Jo Wonil





Interestingly... take in of all the good recently and bad of those early years.
At least they give out more looks than the typical brand would, so kudos to that.

Believe it will only get better knowing how much
they are investing their time into the East. They smell gold and they're after it. It shows.

SS19 - 4 models / 6 looks

FW18 - 4 models / 7 looks

SS18 - 3 models / 5 looks + closed

FW17 - 3 models / 5 looks

SS17 - 3 models / 5 looks

FW16 - 3 models / 5 looks

SS16 - 2 models / 2 looks

FW15 - 4 models / 5 looks

SS15 - 3 models / 6 looks

FW14 - 2 models / 4 looks

SS14 - 1 model / 2 looks

FW13 - 0 model / 0 look

SS13 - 1 model / 2 looks

FW12 - 1 model / 1 look

SS12 - 0 model / 0 look

FW11 - 1 model / 2 looks

SS11 - 0 model / 0 look

FW10 - 0 model / 0 look

SS10 - 0 model / 0 look

FW09 - 0 model / 0 look

SS09 - 0 model / 0 look

FW08 - 0 model / 0 look

SS08 - 0 model / 0 look


Most walked from Bomchan & Hideki Asahina (4x), and Dachuan (3x)

Thom Browne SS19 - Paris

Wankyu Ryu, Gong Guohao, Junkai Qi, Tae Eun Bang, Chen Cong,
Simon Martyn, Xu Meen & Bae Sang Don






Remember when we talk about how there just aren't enough Asian
models being book for particular brands, and sometimes when the models do,
it's because of an Asian theme or related.

So when designers take inspiration
(or some would say cultural appropriation, in some instances) from an Asian culture...
you'd likely expect to see some Asian models within that cast. Right?
However, for Browne and his SS16 show there were zero Asian representation. Eopseo.
The presentation was OTT, conspicuously Japanese
from the setting, music, props, the getas and some of the collection itself.
Just add white makeup and nobody would know Asians were there.

Well, who say it has to be an Asian theme all the time to be included,
this season rescind that notion and was Browne's best cast to date.

SS19 - 8 models

FW18 - 4 models

SS18 - 4 models

FW17 - 2 models

SS17 - n/a

FW16 - 3 models

SS16 - 0 model, Japan-inspired

FW15 - 0 model

SS15 - 0 model

FW14 - 0 model

SS14 - 0 model

FW13 - 0 model

SS13 - 0 model

FW12 - 0 model

SS12 - 0 model

FW11 - 0 model

SS11 - 1 model

FW10 - 1 model

SS10 - 0 model

FW09 - n/a

SS09 - 0 model

FW08 - 2 models

SS08 - 0 model


Favourite faces: Wankyu (4x), Guohao (3x), Xu Meen (2x) and Daisuke Ueda also walked twice which was deliberate on Browne's part due to a Japanese project - nothing wrong, it's a win-win situation

​

 

[Prymasquous]

Loved the Hermes cast (surprise to see Dipti, Wangy and Pooja!). This would be so awesome if their RTW could be like this, especially number wise.

Givenchy was predictable and spaced out purposefully. Well-cast nevertheless.

A closing by Heejung for SS19, she's about everywhere! And will take Chiharu for couture.

 

[Prymasquous]

"CREWS MELEE - PART 4"


***


Alberta Ferretti Resort 2019 - Milan

Yuan Bing Bing




Hermes Resort 2019 - Paris

Wangy Xinyu, Shujing Zhou, Chunjie Liu, Dipti Sharma, Pooja Mor,
Heejung Park, Huan Liu, Sijia Kang & Chu Wong






Miu Miu Resort 2019 - Paris

Cami You-Ten, EZ Lee & Jung Moon Lee


vogue.com ​

 

[dfwn2n]

I'm guessing Alberta was casted by Patrizia Pilotti. That's her signature - using just one Asian model.

 

[bluebanter]

Chanel was surprisingly disappointing. Not much diversity in their casting.

Hoyeon
Hyunji
Wangy
Cong He
Adesuwa

Surprised Yoon Young wasn't there.