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Balenciaga’s Ghesquière Redefines Fall Fashion
The fashion show for
Balenciaga, the dusty couture brand that was purchased by
PPR SA’s
Gucci Group in 2001, has become the hottest ticket of Paris fashion week in recent seasons.
The label’s designer,
Nicolas Ghesquière, is credited with launching some of the biggest recent trends in fashion, including skinny pants and high-volume skirts.
Over the past few weeks at the New York and Milan fashion shows, many designers have presented collections made of dark colors, high-waisted pants, and dressed-up accents like elbow-length gloves. This morning, Mr. Ghesquière did exactly the opposite.
His pants were sporty and low-slung, featuring racer stripes up the sides. His dresses and jackets were colorful, and his high-heeled shoes appeared to have been cobbled together from plastic sneaker parts. Another big difference: there were no accessories on the runway.
“The accessories exist by themselves,” Mr. Ghesquière said after the show. “It doesn’t make sense for me to have a girl walking with them.”
That viewpoint isn’t shared by most of the luxury goods industry, where accessories are paraded down the runway alongside clothes because they make up the vast majority of sales and profits for most brands. In Milan, design houses such as
Gucci,
Prada and
Dolce & Gabbana loaded models up with large handbags, bracelets and other accents to complete their look.
Backstage, while waiting to pay his respects to Mr. Ghesquière,
Neiman Marcus fashion director
Ken Downing said the designer “continues to redefine fashion” and added that he enjoyed the “chic sportif attitude” of the racer-striped pants.
Barneys fashion director
Julie Gilhart said “there’s so much to dissect,” but that she thinks the Barneys customer will be particularly fond of the private-school inspired blazers, mixed print dresses and khaki jodhpurs. Even the unusual shoes, she said, will appeal to a select group of Balenciaga lovers.
With his unconventional approach, Mr. Ghesquière has recently turned Balenciaga into a profitable brand, Gucci executives say, although they refuse to say how profitable.
James McArthur, executive vice president at Gucci Group who oversees the Balenciaga brand, said after the show: “You know we don’t reveal numbers, but don’t you see I am smiling?” —
Rachel Dodes