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style.com/
The Balenciaga show detonated the Paris 2010 autumn season on Thursday with a collection that was hyper-modern and futuristic — even if the designer Nicolas Ghesquière has been working before along these lines.
Here were all the designer’s codes: sculptural shapes, streamlined pants, shoes with block heels that looked like a Cubist painting and artistic references. They included allusions to Cristóbal Balenciaga’s work in “angel wing” shapes. For the new version, they were created as a padded puffa bodice with loose flaps at the back.
Then there were the fabrics and their treatments — perhaps the most revolutionary thing about this collection since Mr. Ghesquière already has established his sci fi-meets-Star Wars look.
“It is about how to embellish the everyday,” said the designer backstage, showing how knitwear, which starred in the show, was treated as if rubber studs had been stamped into the wool. And that was just the start. There were also embroidered pants that looked as if they were overlaid in plastic but were apparently the melding of two materials.
Add to all that vivid “Formica” colors, as the designer described the turquoise and lime colors of 1970s kitchen surfaces, and lettering that appeared with poster boldness, taken from photographs of newsprint by the late Irving Penn.
“Magnificent! Exceptional! So chic and so French,” said Frédéric Mitterrand, the French cultural minister, who was sitting front row beside François-Henri Pinault, chief executive of the PPR group that supports Balenciaga.
The show was so exhilarating in its imagination — if rooted in Mr. Ghesquière’s world — that it had the greatest visual whammy seen so far this fashion season. But you still have to ask about today’s Balenciaga the same question that could be asked of Mr. Cardin’s original satellite creations. Is it, as it is shown, wearable and comprehensible outside the fashion cognoscenti?
Mr. Ghesquière has addressed this issue, showing a year ago, in the same gilded and graceful interior of the Hôtel Crillon, a collection of bourgeois glamour founded on the work of Yves Saint Laurent. At that time, it was as though he were announcing, “You want graceful, feminine modern clothes? Yes, I can do that, too!”
But for 2010, the mood was uncompromisingly futuristic — and therefore a little familiar. Of course you could break down these pieces and put an apricot sweater over a pair of black pants and pass unnoticed in the street. Take off the platform shoes and loosen the scraped back hair and dresses with lace were pretty and sophisticated.
That is the skill of Mr. Ghesquière’s Balenciaga, which is exceptional in cut and fabric and is guaranteed to be on magazine front covers. Yet it never captures that emotional ode to women’s natural beauty that was intrinsic both to Cristóbal Balenciaga’s grand gestures and to the Saint Laurent aesthetic. We live now in different times. Maybe Balenciaga is redrawing elegance for the digital age. It is just that in fashion, as in life, tomorrow never comes.
Actually this fits exactly the way Ghesquiere intended it to fit. It's supposed to be boxy, the clothes are meant to stand away from the body.I decided to take more of my time to see more closely the collection and HQ I really love the color eyebrows!! ...oh wait that doesn't count as a part of the collection right?
This is wrong in all levels, the design is aweful , the fit is AWEFUL it just doesn't adjust to the body gosh, it doesn't fit at all the models bodies, and it amazes me that almost the majority in love with the collection are boys
i felt the same waybut at least it wasn't all doom and gloom like some others...
the same goes for Cristobal, isn't itActually this fits exactly the way Ghesquiere intended it to fit. It's supposed to be boxy, the clothes are meant to stand away from the body.
There is a huge difference between being fitted and fitting correctly.