Christian Dior Haute Couture F/W 2013.14 Paris

[disco54]

While I certainly do understand his inspiration, I still feel like the lack of cohesion is really jarring and was not pulled off successfully enough to read as intentional. Instead it ends up looking like way too many ideas, way too many fabrics, way to many colors and way too many silhouettes. What does this collection mean? It doesn't tell me anything? The message is lost because of the frenzy.

I'm not saying it even has to be a literal beginning, middle and end kind of story with the same look evolved from day to night, but even books and movies that aren't composed in a continuous, lateral manner will still leave the viewer with a conclusive impact. This collection feels hopelessly scatterbrained, at best.

Ultimately, I really am so perplexed by the idea that this collection supposedly addresses the needs of a global clientele. I'm not sure any of these garments (accessories included) are particularly practical or, worse, even flattering on the models - let alone on a more averagely built woman. Raf seems to talk a lot about giving Couture new relevance by giving women what they'd actually want to wear, but this collection leaves me wondering if anyone would actually want to wear any of it.

Thats the irony of it all. Despite Galliano's racial incident, his couture clothing was very global in flavor and he embraced a diversity of looks and the clothes catered to a variety of tastes. Raf Simon's couture clothes are very one dimensional and BORING , I literally fell asleep midway through the show. I worked at the corporate level at Villa Moda in the GCC , I can guarantee you this will not appeal to the BIRC and Middle Eastern customers.

 

[rayoflight]

Not flattering on the models is quite pointless argument when it comes to Couture, since the garments are heavily edited and fitted to the client's wish.

I didn't think I wanted to comment on this collection at all, since I would just have to copy+paste my last comment on Raf doing Dior, but this comment struck a nerve. I think most people here on tFS do know that haute couture is made exactly to clients measurements and every technically possible wish is incorporated along the way, but the show pieces (the clothes models wear in those pictures) are made to that models measurements, they go to fittings and basically the jacket or skirt or gown is made to look best on the model and is supposed to showcase the look in best way possible. At least that's how haute couture is created and presented in houses like Chanel or Valentino. The model wearing the clothes is like an advertisement or invitation for the client to place an order or at the very least to showcase the atelier's capabilities. There are so many pieces in this and other Raf's collections, HC or RTW, where I (and others as well, apparently) feel that the clothes do look unflattering. It is not a flaw or mistake, by now it's obvious that is intentional and part of designer's vision of how a woman wearing Dior should look. No breasts, full bottom and showing off legs the whole time. Personally, I find the silhouette unflattering and frumpy. Not feminine in any way. Basically total opposite of what Christian Dior used to stand for in Dior's own reign.
I won't deny that there are some beautiful looks, but they are: a) archives rehash or b) very minimalist (standout: the flowing white dress with the bleeding dye-job). The rest could use some fine tuning.

 

[Not Plain Jane]

"Haters gonna hate" is seriously the most asinine defense invented. \.

It's almost as annoying as "It is what it is" which is saying nothing; it's a meaningless tautology.


This collection is too disparate.
Though there are some cool individual pieces/looks in it.
It feels newer & younger which is good for couture!
Better editing and stronger coherence will help future collections.
Still, I like the overall vibe.
(Please choose better actual vibes next time please, not Kanye )

 

[IloveDiorHomme]

When will Raf Simons understand that regular women are not flat chested ???



http://www.independent.ie/woman/fas...s-hinder-couture-catwalk-dreams-29392427.html

 

[Creative]

This collection must have been sewn by baby horses. Seriously, it's terribly done. This would fail to pass even Primark's quality controls.

 

[cuppycakes]

the sewing errors are very distracting. this isn't couture.

 

[anik]

There are some interesting ideas, however, the collection does look a bit confusing. The thing which bothers me the most is that most of those strapless dresses(esp. those woven ones) doesn't look well finished. The finishing of the top edge and the bottom hem looks horrible, I can't believe this kind of disaster actually happens in a haute couture show.

 

[Kite]

Those flaws are actually no flaws, the clothes are made by hand and they'll have a "home-made" feel to them. They are not made with machines and therefore not "perfectly" executed.

ABSOLUTELY NOT! Every collection in the HC Schedule has the same extreme requirements which make the collections "Couture".

The collections at Chanel, Valentino and Ellie Saab are all hand made and crafted, as have every single Haute Couture Show shown by Galliano etc at Dior, and you do not see these blatant construction issues in those collections.

They are all MEANT to be perfectly executed and showcase the extreme talent and precision of the Atelier and skills craftsmen who produce these garments.

If something looks "Home Made"...they have CERTAINLY got it wrong.

 

[Crying Diamonds]

There is no point in denying it, I hate probably 90% of the collection what with the awkward and clumsy drape and the generic and completely unnecessary pieces such as that terrible pleated and belted white dress.. and of course, the aforementioned quality issues, I know satin is a nightmare to sew but this is Christian Dior Haute Couture - use the archives for technical advice.
But, there is a but. This is the first collection I feel Raf has actually used some sort of concept that actually takes his Dior outside of the disinfectant-smelling hospital wing.
There is this really beautiful African vibe he's mixed in with his minimalism. There are even a few looks that I would say verge on fabulous.
That very round, oversized blue jacket worn with the very skinny trousers, sort of Balenciaga six years ago; that big, very 'eighties blue coat with the silk scarf; the crisp white (though questionably constructed) blouse worn with the striped satin wrap; that wonderful striped fur wrap lined in matching satin.
Though the racist accusation against Raf Simons' casting has obviously had an effect on who he has to model his Dior, could such a criticism have been a kick up the backside for inspiration (as clumsy and obvious an apology 'African vibe' may be)?

 

[iluvjeisa]

I don't think this collection is very appealing. That said, I do think it will photograph well.

 

[rip_ian curtis]

I'm sad to read (and see) that he hasn't succeeded in constructing most of the garments very well. I wear a lot of Raf menswear, and I have to say that at least his mens stuff shows what an amazing tailor he is (or at least someone is in his team is). Quintessential Raf item is a coat or a blazer cut with laser precision and stiffened with real horsehair construction. I don't see any of that here. I feel like all the jackets that have been pointed out as sloppy lack inner construction, like there is not at all fusing etc to support the fabric. I guess that is an attempt to inject some feminine softness to the clothes, but most of it looks just ill-fitting because of that. He should really work on that, because he knows how to do it plus a little bit more sharpness in the shapes would look more Raf, I think. He should probably include a menswear tailor to his team at Dior atelier.

 

[Mathewthew]

I love the collection, it's a new direction of couture. There's a different idea of just beautiful and I know couture is hand made. But some of the flaws is kinda unacceptable as Haute Couture. The preparation and the manipulation of fabrics and finishing to make the clothes perfect is one of the tradition of Haute Couture. I love Raf and the ideas and freshness that he bring to the house, but something need to be done right.

 

[Morphe]

Raf = menswear designer
Raf = no boobs
Raf = no BLACK

then why we need Raf for Dior . Please bring Galliano back. the real king left too long!!!!!

Embarrassing.

 

[donyan]

This looks like the collection of someone who has no clear vision of what he's doing and, even worse , doesn't seem to care. No matter how much everything is explained, a truly beautiful and strong collections needs to explanation at all.
I actually miss the emotional and honest exuberance of Galliano, because whatever anyone can say about his faults, he was passionate about his work above all else. The above collection is void of any of these things.

 

[matteverhart]

I love Raf's menswear but I honestly haven't loved anything he's done for Dior since he got there. Just give him his own line and find somebody else for Dior (Theyskens...)

 

[susseinmcswanny]

this is actually so crazy

 

[susseinmcswanny]

I can't stop thinking about this