Christian Dior Haute Couture F/W 2021.22 Paris

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[dior_couture1245]

It’s kind of comical how poor it is.

 

[Salvatore]

Mary Grace NoThanks welcomes us to her 10th Biannual Frump Parade that is couture. I hate it.

 

[LoveFashion25]

This just look like "been there done that".

 

[perhydrol]

I can't blame Maria Grazia for switching to daywear. That's the reality now. But this collection is so tragic. She should have shown us her FW20 couture instead of this thing.

What strikes me is that there's no fantasy, no sense of humour and no aspiration. All we can see here is a marketing exercise that went seriously wrong. The clothes are commercial in the most vulgar and offensive way. And while construction of garments or textiles may be wonderful and out-of-this-world, the looks are visually poor. Even the gowns are weaker than usual. The styling does nothing to elevate anything here. It's a literal copy-paste from her usual RTW shows, just more conservative and more mature, not in a good way. Even the production was weaker than usual with the embroidered piece of art on the walls and nothing more.

Can't believe she got a standing ovation for this. There's nothing to be excited about.

 

[Lola701]

This is maybe the first time ever that she attempt to do real « bar » jackets! It’s not quite there yet but at least, we see some padding!
And the skirt on look 2 almost made me smile! It’s almost Corolle!

The collection is a mess! Maybe her worst ever (in a very underwhelming tenure).
The school girl section in the middle is particularly annoying.

 

[just me]

Enough. Couldn't even scroll through the whole thing.

Some of the evening gown are definitely inspired by Elbaz's Lanvin.

 

[farshogar]

Everyone's being super negative about the collection (not without valid reason though) so I'm going to try and have a positive reaction to this. This is possibly the most exciting collection she's ever done. The dresses actually moved well and in a few pieces you could really see that there was some craftsmanship involved. It's nice to see her try out a few new materials and to even go ahead an do a version of the bar jacket for the first time (as someone mentioned in the thread above), making it seem mildly like a Dior collection. Overall, great attempt. I think I see her rising higher on the learning curve and my very positive thoughts look forward to the possibility of a better collection in the future.

 

[avonlea002]

Over the past few seasons, her collections have become more and more depressing. Sometimes I think that despite the fat paychecks, she doesn't like the job at all. I wouldn't be surprised if the studio team did everything.

 

[caioherrero]

Zara does haute couture better than this.

 

[jeanclaude]

Mary Grace...or how to pay big amounts of money to make you look like you have gained weight during lockdown in your mansion (even if you are as skinny as these models).

And this dress:

Why is there a "Project Runway" dress in a Dior HC collection? Looks like "next challenge is making a dress with the discarded rags from the atelier"!

 

[RedSmokeRise]

I feel sort of bad. You can see her running out of ideas here - she put more effort into the resort even.

 

[YohjiAddict]

Those mod outfits are such a poor Marc Bohan rendition! The "best" looks are probably the evening gowns which she has done a thousand times already, the lack of ideas is palpable throughout.

I like the different shades of grey she used in the coats...if only they didn't add 10 pounds in all the wrong places. She's gone from soporific to plain depressing really fast.

 

[mistress_f]

And this dress:

Why is there a "Project Runway" dress in a Dior HC collection? Looks like "next challenge is making a dress with the discarded rags from the atelier"!

Lol i came in here just to specifically complain about this hideous, terribly designed and cheaply made dress. what the hell

as for the rest, we literally seen it all before, only this time it's just worse and more lifeless than usual

 

[FelipeV]

I just don't understand. She may not even have to sketch, or design, or cut the patterns and make a jacket herself. She's supposed to direct a team of professionals to do that, maybe the best seamstresses in the industry and yet, she delivers this? What do she does all day???

 

[jeanclaude]

What do she does all day???

Being famous!!!

vein.es

 

[avonlea002]

What do she does all day???

Having fun with Selena and Ruth aka her sugar babes.

 

[Frederic01]

This collection had serious potential but once again the editing of the pieces and the atrocious styling is a problem. Once Chiuri/Dior stopped working with Karl Templer and once Madame Riviere, the Couture Directrice, left - the collections suffered immensely and also lost that kind of "Parisian" and "French" spirit. Madame was fundamental in the design/editing/selection process, always making sure to include and highlight pieces that captured the original spirit of Monsieur Dior. Instead of keeping key people like this around in her team to strengthen her point-of-view, she chose to incorporate the ideas of her daughter, whose official arrival in the Dior design team coincided with some of Chiuri's worst collections to date.

It is obvious to me that Maria Grazia benefits immensely from having a strong, contrasting (possibly external) voice to offer a different opinion to her ideas. It strengthens and enlivens her work (just look her first Dior collections compared to now - its progressively less French and progressively less referential to the Dior archives). Unfortunately it seems at the moment she has too many people surrounding her, saying "YES" to everything, which results in weak collections such as this.

Allegedly at Valentino, Maria Grazia and Pierpaolo had legendary screaming matches during the design process, witnessed and heard even through closed doors. Nonetheless, it seems these kinds of arguments/discussions, clearly led to some of the best ideas coming to the forefront of their Valentino collections. Interesting, no?