Christian Dior S/S 2013 Paris

[Spike413]

Definitely a major image shift from the eccentric Galliano, but these clothes will sell. They're chic, understated, sophisticated...

I wouldn't be entirely sure of that just yet. The basic black tailoring and little dresses seem likely to appeal to customers, but any of the colorful stuff honestly seems like it might be a tough sell. If it's not the shape that's challenging (or in some cases downright off-putting) it's the fabric. Those super shiny techno blends are often labelled "trash bag" by people here, does it seem likely that Dior's RTW clientele -- who have become accustomed to very prissy and proper offerings these last few years -- are going to go for a short orange metallic asymmetric trapeze dress?

 

[lepetitcouturier]

All of the people who are saying it is too much like the couture show, you've forgotten that 90% of Galliano's ready-to-wear shows were riffs on the last couture show. And it seems like everybody who was fawning over his last Jil collection have also forgotten that by the end he had pretty much strayed away from all f Jil's codes. He kept it pure and simple but that's it. His last collection was all him. He went out with a bang. And now you're saying it's too Jil, but Raf was designing, so it's him. 100% And he's doing an amazing job at it.
SS07 Couture and FW07 P-a-P from Style.com

 

[zacatecas570]

I'm not an idiot in terms of Galliano's work. But you know what? He's not designing for Dior anymore! You would think that after a year and a half people would get over it, but he seems to be happy now. He's got time on his own which he hasn't had in fifteen years. But Raf is following the DNA of the HOUSE, not Galliano. Galliano had his own way of working. He always has, every designer does. And this collection will sell well because the clothes are made perfectly and it's very accessible.

You need to do some research about the House of Dior. Because frankly you don't seem to know anything about it.

Exactly!

 

[Excentrique]

Exactly!

Like I said, I´m maddly in love with Galliano´s work, but this is quite good for me too

 

[GIVENCHYlover]

There's a certain moment, when I needed to say that ... But it seems OBVIOUS to anyone here that you don't like minimalism in Fashion, nor that you like Jil Sander, Raf Simons etc. so why even bother looking at these collections and just say oh this is disgusting, this awful ... Especially, if you don't explain why you feel this way ... You have to explain, one day, your point of view - even though as stated it is quite obvious you prefer what is vulgar, dell Russo-sequence and expensive stuff, because expensive stuff are always good, right ?


OMG, I'm so tired of these comments ....
So now I'm gonna look at the show ... Sorry to interrupt ...

* mods, I know we have to keep it calm but geez that guy ...

I love minimalism in fashion.

Fat advertising budget anyone?
the reviews are a joke really

Agree.

 

[lelaid]

i applaud him because under this extreme pressure, an unlimited budget, and the world watching him he was able to exercise something galliano never could; restraint. sure, it had wobbly parts, but give him a few season and allow him to find his footing in the wake of the power houses who came before him and i'm sure he'll do great things for the house of dior. i personally like the collection but it seems to be a rather polarizing one, needless to say.

 

[ArtManiac19]

HD Show

 

[XxpinktinksxX]

Quite a beautiful collection still miss Galliano's magic though.

 

[disco54]

Definitely a major image shift from the eccentric Galliano, but these clothes will sell. They're chic, understated, sophisticated...

Actually Galliano's clothes sold very well with Middle Eastern clients and customers from BRIC countries because of their opulence and the insane price tags justified it. Keep in mind customers from these countries form a large part of couture and luxury retail now.Working with Villa Moda managment in the Gulf/KSA for several years I can say from experience. The new Dior will not be successful with clients from BIRC and the Middle East. I guess Dior wants to appeal to a new clientele but with the current economic conditions and a 75% tax rate announced today for the wealthy in France, what clientele? I don't see anyone besides Tilda Swinton and G. Paltrow wearing this.

 

[CrisGalaxy]

People need to completely forget about Galliano and what he did for Dior. Galliano is gone, his ideas, his style--everything Galliano every did for Dior needs to be forgotten and be put away in a box never to be opened again. I know that sounds harsh but lets get real here, Raf wasn't going to continue Galliano's idea of Dior. Galliano didn't start the house Christian Dior, Galliano wasn't Christian Dior either, he was just another successor and what Raf Simons is simply doing is to bring his own ideas and interpretation of what Dior was and what he think Dior is. This happens in every fashion brand, when a new designer comes in, the past is the past and the new successor's ideas are what matter now, not what his predecessor did (unles his predecessor was the one who created the brand of course, that is different but this is not the case with Dior like I said).

 

[Bidwell]

?? Really? That's all there is?
If this was done by at fashion grad show, who would care?
So what. Unlimited access to all that fashion can bring and he gives the world upscale H&M? Journalists stumble to be in the inner circle by pandering. Terrible.

 

[JuiceMajor]

So glad that Suzy and Cathy luvs it. These are the opinion that matters. And him wearing Helmut was a epic as the collection! Great moment!

I have my money on Helmut returning to his own label than Galliano to Dior, but we know that will never happen!

 

[CrisGalaxy]

So glad that Suzy and Cathy luvs it. These are the opinion that matters. And him wearing Helmut was a epic as the collection! Great moment!

Was he really wearing Helmut Lang??? Somebody on tumblr pointed that out too. Oh god, Raf wearing Lang, A DREAM

 

[IloveDiorHomme]

?? Really? That's all there is?
If this was done by at fashion grad show, who would care?
So what. Unlimited access to all that fashion can bring and he gives the world upscale H&M? Journalists stumble to be in the inner circle by pandering. Terrible.

I agree.. Now journalists praise anything just get their front-row seats and get personnal treats. Fashion press is getting worse and worse

 

[modela]

I don't understand how putting a suit on the catwalk is considered great fashion .I'm not the biggest fashionista but this was lackluster.I can't praise a fashion house with an unlimited budget for their tailoring..for the money their clients are paying they are supposed to.If this was shown in NY or Milan by a no name designer they would have called it commercial and ripped it to shreds.The fashion pack have showed their true colors once again.

 

[MulletProof]

I don't understand how putting a suit on the catwalk is considered great fashion.

I know, that poor Yves guy wasting all of his youth focusing on bogus fashion..

 

[modela]

There is no need in being rude.

 

[IsabelMarantBoy]

I'm glad that he worked on making his vision for couture something approachable and accessible. The suits were my favorite part, as were all the little coat dresses (especially that sculpted grey one with the metal embroidery ) I think when it came to the dresses, there were just too many options. This collection had the same problem I've had with a few other collections this season, and that is that they are really long. I also wish evening had a few more options. Overall, I'd say its good but not great. Designers need more than two collections to establish themselves at a new house, so I'm not going to berate him for putting out something that's not super amazing as only his second collection.

 

[GERGIN]

I know, that poor Yves guy wasting all of his youth focusing on bogus fashion..

Ahhhhhhhhhhh!

I'd rather see beautiful classic suits down the catwalk over Karlie Kloss doing some dramatic opening strut....yuck! I love Karlie K tho !

 

[tatouejeremie]

vanessa friedman keeping it real

Raf Simons simply embraces the sensual

Vanessa Friedman By Vanessa Friedman

Dior past and future come together in the designer’s debut ready-to-wear collection

And they’re off! The first hugely anticipated event of Paris Fashion Week finally occurred and the industry, which seemed to have been holding its collective breath since the start of the season, finally exhaled .

Raf Simons’ debut ready-to-wear collection for Christian Dior was a continuation of his couture show last July: a meshing of Dior past and future in a finely woven gauntlet thrown down before the minimalism that has been marching through the fashion world. (Minimalism, in a bit of intra-designer politics, is at the core of his old brand, Jil Sander, where the return of the house’s founder led to his being ousted in February.)

With these clothes Simons was, in effect, proving you don’t have to boil lushness away to find the essence of a garment or to be able to move freely in the world.

This was overt, in a statement that described the show as “breaking through the notion of ‘anti-sex’ attached to the restriction of minimalism . . . an embracing of the sexual, emotional, sensual and feminine.”

And it was covert, in clothes that married cool functionality to traditional extravagance in a meeting of equals.

So a classic Dior-moulded hip “Bar” jacket over skinny trousers became a mini tuxedo dress, the curves ever more exaggerated, and then lost its shoulders and sleeves to go strapless; elaborately draped iridescent organza “truncated ball gowns” with their skirts cut off were worn with black shorts; and grey wool coatdresses had shiny pleats inserted here and there, just to undermine expectations.

In the end, a series of rose print duchesse ball skirts were teamed with very thin black silk cashmere leotard tops.

The latter is a look Simons has shown before, which doesn’t make it any less appealing. Still, maybe next season he’ll have another idea. And if things went a bit wobbly in the middle (which they did) with fluorescent sheeny trapeze dresses that were more luridly disco than subversively demure, as a whole the collection felt relevant, a meaningful achievement for a couture house these recessionary days, when the point of the aesthetic form is perennially called into question.

In those clothes, those girls could motor. Vroom.

http://www.ft.com/intl/cms/s/2/23f540e6-0973-11e2-a5a9-00144feabdc0.html