Emanuel Ungaro S/S 10 Paris

[kevinnn]

Literally about to post the same thing. I don't mean to sound too harsh but I would never have worn anything Cortazar did for Ungaro ever. Ever.

but aren't you a guy?

 

[Salvatore]

but aren't you a guy?

He's figuratively speaking I am sure.

 

[calim00nchild]

Ironically, I think this show failed in the styling and execution. There are actually some nice pieces but the way it was styled killed it and took away from the nice pieces.

The show would be vastly different, in a positive way, if you removed the heart pasties, the kitschy heart earrings, and the outfits where the models were topless under the jackets. And ditched the Kanye sunglasses.

ETA- The more I look at it- who styled this show? There are some really basic styling failures. Why weren't the topless outfits topsticked to prevent the models from flashing? Did they even do a final fitting with the models? Some of the clothes bunch and ride up, or are baggy and hanging oddly on the models.

 

[wheneveriwakeup]

3 weeks? That's insane and irresponsible. Who in their right mind designs a full collection in 3 weeks time? How disrespectful to the legacy of Ungaro. The WWD article is overtly catty and biased in some areas, but for the most part, it's spot on. Lohan can hardly stir her own life in a positive, healthy direction; how the hell is she going to successfully advise a million dollar business?! As a champion of the underdogs, I would love to see Lindsay get herself together and prove the naysayers wrong in her respective field, but this partnership doesn't seem like a healthy situation for her to be in @ this moment in time.

 

[Ghostboy]

A collection of bandage dresses and bikinis (or heart-shaped pasties) under blazers. I thought some pieces were nices (the staircase shoes and the pieces with the half cut-out hearts) but my overall judgment: kind of skanky and not in a good way. It's sad they let Cortazar go for Lohan, because her questionable reputation can only harm Ungaro.
Sigh.

 

[retailqueen]

This dress looks EXACTLY like something ive seen before but i cant remembre where

catwalking via Jungla_Juana

TBH, i quite like it

it's Pucci FW/09

style.com

 

[mikeijames]

There are some beautiful, albeit irrelevant, cocktail dresses in the bunch - mainly the drapey, relaxed, more subdued pieces. Besides that, there really isn't much else going on here. It's everything we've been seeing for the last few seasons: bodycon, lots of skin, harem pants, BOLD colors, the typical ideals of 'sexiness', etc. As boring as it is, I feel that a lot of trendy rich girls will eat it up, bulk style.

In regards to Lindsay Lohan's involvement, she will never satisfy the public. She will only ever satiate many ppl's sick desire to see her crash and burn. Not to say she is deserving or well suited for the title (SHE IS NOT), but why not judge the works objectively rather than subjectively? I also think the ppl over @ Ungaro are terrible for exploiting Lohan's chaotic, disturbed life in hopes of garnering infamy and publicity. It's definitely working but in no way is it helping the addiction-addled Lohan. She is probably too sauced and deluded to even realize how terribly sad this whole mess is.

wow. this may be a first, but i actually agree with you. i have a sense that this team held back its punches for the second collection as the first collection of any new designer always gets panned, but for a first offering, i can't say it's entirely missed the mark. i had the opportunity to rifle through old ungaro on a saks sale rack this past weekend and i don't honestly see the material difference between this stuff and what got produced before. the last time ungaro had any authenticity came in the days when it got designed by valli or dundas.

with that said, i hope all of the criticism of these hearts as agatha ruiz de la prada knock offs came when stefano pilati did the same at yves saint laurent years ago. also, with all due respect, does anyone in this forum honestly believe that lindsay lohan sat down and sketched out these clothes? any issue people have with design should get directed toward estrella archs: she's doing the design, execution, and styling here. honestly, i don't see much problem with the execution and i don't believe that lohan put in that much input with respect to vision. right now, this looks like a re-hash of old ungaro -- much like we've seen at rochas and nina ricci this season -- and if people have problems with this, i honestly question whether they enjoy the ungaro design aesthetic at all. seriously, this is what the house looked like while he still designed for the house...

style.com

 

[calim00nchild]

Shots of some of the details:

source: coutorture.com

 

[The.Rock.Inc.]

When asked how she collaborated with Estrella, Lohan explained, “We both kind of mixed our (ideas) together, and that’s why it came out so well. I really appreciate everything that goes into, like, any article of clothing. I think it’s fantastic and I think it’s so expressive in so many ways.”

justjared

 

[Cimarosa]

It feels like two different collections, there's such a disparity between quality and sensibility here. I mean, the g-damn hearts? Seriously. Like a five year old girl went crazy with a pink crayon. Very cheap 'trendy' stuff, almost desperate.

 

[Salvatore]

Mikeijames, I do not think you can compare that collection to this considering the difference in years. It is impossible to know what Ungaro himself would be designing today and you have to realise that was the look of that time.

 

[calim00nchild]

Fashion Wire Daily has some nice things to say about Archs, and also points out the styling failure:

Ungaro: Mode as Media Maelstrom
by Godfrey Deeny

October 04th, 2009 @ 00:54 AM - Paris Talk about fashion pandemonium. There was a veritable human maelstrom backstage after the latest runway show of Ungaro in Paris on Sunday, Oct. 4, as camera crews pushed and shoved and begged for an interview with the house’s new celebrity creative director Lindsay Lohan, making her debut as a designer.

Lohan took her bow, fighting back tears, hand in hand with her joint creative director Estrella Archs of Spain, pausing at the head of the catwalk as the crowd of some 250 photographers snapped the movie star, dressed in a skimpy one-shoulder white crepe cocktail dress.

“Fashion debuts are so much more fun than red carpet premieres,” said Lohan in her private backstage area, as she instructed her hair and makeup team to “quickly comb my hair. It looks disgusting.”

Though fashion critics, editors and stylists put celebrities on their magazine covers and pen features about their tastes, the industry has remained highly suspicious of their attempts to reinvent themselves as designers. So, the weight of expectations were against the new duo as the lights dimmed in the Carrousel du Louvre and the first looks in the Spring 2010 collection hit the pink trimmed white catwalk.

First of all the good news: Archs clearly knows how to cut a cocktail dress, and she and Lohan did get the color scheme right – deep purples, hot pinks and silvery whites. Plus, there was an easy-to-understand feeling to a lot of the looks, twisted and ruched cocktail dresses that had a movie star quotient and a French quality. And the choice of Art Deco heeled shoes all looked like potential hits.

“It’s about a woman being in love with herself," said Archs. "It's about being self-confident and feeling good about being beautiful,”

However, this collection never really soared. While it had enough of the house’s signatures, it felt more like a diffusion line than a major signature collection. Going young is one thing, but somewhat lacking in ambition is another. And, where the house was famed for its kaleidoscope of colors and tie-dyed fantasies, this was too retrained with its preference for scratchy, scrawled prints.

Moreover, too many of the styling tricks did not come off. Covering the chest with sequined hearts is one thing, but placing the same thing on a half dozen heads was naff. And on three occasions straps fell off shoulders, or breasts suddenly swung out from tuxedo jackets, which was a little unlucky, but did not look very professional.

However, since the departure of Giambattista Valli, the acclaimed first successor of founder Emanuel Ungaro, the house’s three intervening designers, Vincent Darre, Peter Dundas and Esteban Cortazar, all had less than stellar debuts. So, while not exactly a home run, Lohan and Archs did get the collection to first base, defying the odds.
http://www.fashionwiredaily.com/first_word/fashion/article.weml?id=2855

 

[mikeijames]

Mikeijames, I do not think you can compare that collection to this considering the difference in years. It is impossible to know what Ungaro himself would be designing today and you have to realise that was the look of that time.

yes, but the playfulness and girliness has continued throughout no matter the era. one can't now decry those elements as if the new design team just dreamed them up. just say, "i don't really like the playfulness and girliness that ungaro has represented for four decades."

it's like criticizing ghesquiere for using bubble skirts or pilati for using le smoking.

source: gettyimages.com

 

[Salvatore]

But there was a chicness and elegance to the playfulness and girlyness that's lacking here. Like I said, it's not as bad as I thought, but it's not that good.

 

[MulletProof]

... loved the Kitson comparison. that sums it up.

 

[dazzling85]

What a disastrous collection

 

[taz]

it pains me to admit that i like what i see so far
i dont like to admit liking anything that has lohans name attached to it

same feelings here Alexis,
but this the is the most close debut to Ungaro DNA since Valli has depart Ungaro, especialy after the Cavali guy years.

 

[Deleted member 103203]

... loved the Kitson comparison. that sums it up.

Me too. I feel really bad for Estrella Archs I honestly want to see her design a collection for Ungaro by herself with anyone's consultation and see what happens from there, this collection was sad I mean......just sad .

 

[lamies022]

It ain't half-bad. And considering it was conjured up in 3 weeks I would think that future shows will bring more creativity

 

[Fashionturnip]

Looks like she took inspiration from her 'fornarina' days.

UGH. Words cant descibe how tacky that 'heart' is. fail.