Armani's Blue Period
By SUZY MENKES
Published: September 27, 2010
MILAN — “La Femme Bleue” read the inky letters over a projection of  undulating sand dunes. This was not Picasso’s Blue Period but 
Giorgio Armani sending out a powerful and personal collection to close Milan Fashion Week.
“It’s the Tuaregs — all blue, all the same color, but with a different  spirit,” said Mr. Armani backstage to explain a collection that might  have been on one note in its depiction of the nomadic Saharan tribe, but  was, in fact, subtly nuanced in color and texture.        
The models came out with their heads bound with ethnic scarves and their  feet in the kind of flat sandals that might make it through the desert.  The clothes were soft, long, draped, transparent — or often all of the  above. And it made a calmly beautiful collection more in the Armani  spirit than many the designer has shown of late. 
There was a fashion mission: to bring skirt lengths down, without making  the change of silhouette seem constricting or unnerving. One of the  ways the designer pulled off this elegant collection was by using the  same wafting, semi-transparent gauzes that had appeared earlier on his  Emporio runway. But this time they were indeterminate shapes — a drift  of fabric as vague as sand blowing in the wind. 
By contrast, newly shaped pants were waisted and very slightly rounded.  Worn with cropped jackets, they looked fresh and new for daywear. So did  the long, slim dresses that never segued into red carpet extravaganzas.  The most edgy look was when satellites of tulle circled the body. 
This show represented Mr. Armani at his best: the gentle nod to  ethnicity in bold jewelry and in the headgear; clothes that moved as  easily as the bodies inside them. Above all, this play on just a single  color — but with myriad different effects from silken sheen to dry  cotton — stood out as a beacon of summer elegance in a season of wild  color. 
While other designers have taken the hippie de luxe trail, first walked  by Yves Saint Laurent in the 1970s, Mr. Armani showed his independent  vision and his conviction that making women calmly beautiful can be a  mission statement.