H&M x Rokh 2024

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Courtesy of H&M
 
Something rather Peter Do-esque about these, with some earlier Dion Lee or David Koma. Looks pretty dated.

Now is a moment to test my theory that is the correlation between H&M collabs and the Gautlier collabs. Probably pointless but we shall see. Balmain, Simone, Rabanne...
 
Something rather Peter Do-esque about these, with some earlier Dion Lee or David Koma. Looks pretty dated.

Now is a moment to test my theory that is the correlation between H&M collabs and the Gautlier collabs. Probably pointless but we shall see. Balmain, Simone, Rabanne...
Rokh was also an old Céline alumnus, like Do. I am a huge fan of all the designers you are comparing Rokh with and I don't really agree. I think he has a very recognizable style and while you can compare his work to Dion Lee's and Do's himself (fail to see the David Koma similarity at all), it is all still fairly different. These are all Helmut Lang/Margiela heirs and I doubt it is anything like dated. In fact, they are very contemporary (which is why H&M hired him) and are the future of fashion.

It's unfortunate that people in this forum are so allergic and reactionary to newer talents and never fail to draw comparisons, etc. Pretty sure the designers these same people now praise got the same kind of bashing in their beginnnings. Everybody has influences because no one lives in a vacuum, to pretend anyone is excluded from having influences is a lie a lot of people seem here seem to like to think.
 
Rokh was also an old Céline alumnus, like Do. I am a huge fan of all the designers you are comparing Rokh with and I don't really agree. I think he has a very recognizable style and while you can compare his work to Dion Lee's and Do's himself (fail to see the David Koma similarity at all), it is all still fairly different. These are all Helmut Lang/Margiela heirs and I doubt it is anything like dated. In fact, they are very contemporary (which is why H&M hired him) and are the future of fashion.

It's unfortunate that people in this forum are so allergic and reactionary to newer talents and never fail to draw comparisons, etc. Pretty sure the designers these same people now praise got the same kind of bashing in their beginnnings. Everybody has influences because no one lives in a vacuum, to pretend anyone is excluded from having influences is a lie a lot of people seem here seem to like to think.
Of course everyone has references, otherwise new collections wouldn't exist and those we love couldn't! Frankly, it's one of the things I enjoy about observing fashion, seeing and pulling apart the references because seeing how they're used or harnessed is a way to perceive the designer's point of view. I'd say with the Koma similarity it is more of the sensibility when it comes to garment "slickness". The dresses have that streamlined and rather aerodynamic look on the body but not in a Chalayan way. I see that in a lot of Koma's work and his Mugler, which there are touches of in this in my eyes.

And I'd say what makes these really look dated is the same as all the other collabs that have been happening for a while; H&M quality really depreciates the value of the garments themselves so rather than it being a fun, accessible and exciting thing you just ask what's the point? The collabs certainly don't hit the same way they used to that's for sure, but that is also H&M just thinking putting the designer work into a fast fashion machine and it will all just fall perfectly into place...

A lot of the personality is stripped here, and looks not that dissimilar to other "minimalist" contemporary brands that litter the social media feeds. Of course it has it's audience, and it is great that newer and younger designers are being given a chance (hell, it makes me feel like I'm going to get a chance being in my late 20s) but it isn't hard to not be a little pessimistic when it is more of the same in the end. A reductive same too that visually ends up rather dry. There's just something very of the now/product of its time about Rokh and their fellow contemporaries which you can't deny, as if it was algorithm-ed to exist in this state.
 
^^ that is more to do with H&M as a brand think. the idea of having a physical store for a fast fashion brand is just so dated now when brands that they're supposed to be competing with are living online (temu, shein etc.). Even their past competitors are rebranding to something a bit more upscale. Its really a waste of floor space when you go into a store and see clothes whose price you already know will not give you quality that deserves to be seen in person. H&M is giving grocery fashion aisle realness these days. They need to rebrand or they'll be swallowed whole by their digital competitors.
 

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