Jil Sander Mens F/W 08.09 Milan

[kiss august]

Raf's gone to prints... and they look amazing!

 

[JuiceMajor]

Thank god for Raf!!

 

[andrew_macleod_]

and speaking of the prints, they're a bit gimmick-ey. that striped suit on Ryan just won't fly. the stripes aren't even matched!
i just saw the rest of the photos - and it got worse. while there's androgeny (a Sander trandemark), this leers so closely to feminine shapes. about 60% of the jackets are cut for bust and hip, with a waste shape thats too defined in a certain shape for a man's wardrobe. there are some beautiful suits, but they seem to make up only a small part of the items in this show. and that candy red and blue? 1) it's the colour of jello and 2) they're not fall colours. like i say, i'm all for innovation, but there are conventions which are sensible, tried, true, and should be respected.

 

[ilaughead]

Hmmm. I can't say I'm a fan of any of the prints. I actually only like the sweater in the first post and all of the leather jackets. some of the solids look like they have interesting textures, though.

 

[visconti]

I love a fair number of these pieces, but I'm concerned that about half of the collection will date poorly. More specifically, that it won't integrate well with past or future seasons. While that timelessness may not be a concern of all houses, it's certainly reason why I love Jil Sander. If there were concerns that F/W 07's grids and metallics would be too fashiony, I can only imagine what many will think of the more extreme prints. Maybe they work on a bag or a knit, but as outerwear or suiting, it's a step too far for me.

I love the cut of the pants- skinnier than ever!

The return to all 2 button suits is a plus. Even in low resolution the fabrics are gorgeous. I'm not into the red and blue though. Usually the color scheme seems so carefully selected. The standard blue before black and the brick red of s/s 08 are much stronger.

The pleated coat in the final exit is a high point for me.

There's still much to love, but I can't help but long for every look to be effortless.

 

[happyguy]

i could wear the first 2 leather jackets in post 3. i have broad shoulders and a small waist. finding things that fit both are hard. especially jackets and tailoring.

 

[Deleted member 7575]

SUPERB

Love it (although not so much the leather pieces toward the end)

Love the prints, love the woven patterns, love the suiting fabric, LOVE the pants, love the outerwear.

 

[Spike413]

It starts off nice enough, but those head to toe printed looks are horrid.

I can't imagine many women wearing a head to toe graphic print, I can see even fewer men in it. They're kind of garish, which is definitely not a word I associate with Jil Sander.

And something about the proportions of the straight cut long jacket/skinny trouser looks is rubbing me the wrong way.

 

[pomegranates]

Raf

not a fan of the red and blue.. the head to toe print is a bit too much - but it is runway so i can forgive and as separates they look great (like just the printed coat ensemble)
Does anyone else feel the trousers are going a bit too skinny?

That last coat is brilliant

 

[mass]

it's not bad, but i'm a bit confused as it seems to be completely detached from the direction he was taking jil but moreso along the lines of his own collections. i can't see the prints really working off the runway (or on it... maybe), and a lot of the pieces seem quite dated. the leather jackets look really fantastic though, as do the materials.

 

[cake_batter]

this is gorgeous.

the suit cuts are sharp, i adore the marble coats and bags, the turtleneck sweaters, pretty much everything.

 

[BerlinRocks]

there are a lot of look that i like...
this is the only collection for menswear where i can still loove the slim silhouette.......
Raf's a genius....

but one bad point = the snow prints...
i'm just not into this, at all....

but i love almost all the coats and jackets....
last look in #27, i love
and the coat in third look, post #29
and this oliv green jacket after the blue total look... lovely!!!
i wish i could afford Jil Sander....
how much do you think for those????

the creepers(?) are pretty soft, there....

 

[Street_a_Licious]

hm.......

anyone knows that MTV show? Next?

"NEXT!"

 

[MulletProof]

I can tell Gius will be the most thrilled to see this . I'm not overly concerned about wearability but the relevance of these prints and materials is truly something else. I like to interpret the trousers as some styling move for the entire collection's sake but individually, I think every piece can float on its own and still hold to the timeless' purpose of the house. I'm hoping Raf will channel all of this into the women's line, too..

 

[TomFordforGucci]

Ugh, phenomenal. I love the coloured suits towards the end.
And the umm... prints? are so intriguing.

 

[Cosette]

I'm hoping Raf will channel all of this into the women's line, too..

Oh, I'm hoping for the same. I love these prints, and I believe a few of them would be wearable separately. They are a bit too loud for my liking head-to-toe, but that's what the runway show's all about imo. I think the suits are so well-structured, as well.

 

[Starry]

Looooove this whole collection!
The prints, the skinny pants! And the shoes!
My favorite mens collection this F/W 08 season so far...

 

[Zazie]

I'm so disappointed there's nothing new here, except for the prints, but these sort of prints have been around for a while now. It's just a run-of-the-mill collection.

 

[aybaybay]

the cut of this collection is odd; the cut is extremely feminine. the bust of the jackets and the shape through the hip is made to accomodate hips and breasts. the shape of the shoulders is also not particularly masculine. now there's such a thing as innovation and change of shape, but this is the feminization of men. it's aggrovated by the appearance of the models who lack that muscular development of a man (but some idiot is going too say something about blah blah models have to be thin to wear the clothes - no they don't). it's an odd collection for a house which isn't known to be on a good financial footing, and which has a revolving image in fashion. raf should create a stronger identity, and diverge from it less wildly. the more extreme designs would be better at a later date, after the house is re-established to a greater degree.

i think you're wrong about everything.

 

[MJCouture]

Overall, this is a great collection. Again and again Raf is prooving that Jil Sander is really the only relavent menswear comming out of Milan. I have a very strong dislike for the marble and other odd prints, they do not really make sense to the JS heritage and feel awkward here, but I can forgive that because so much of this is beautifully done and wearable all while subtely pushing the envelope of proportion, and I do quite like that swirled plain looking textile in the grey/red short hooded coat.