Jil Sander Mens F/W 08.09 Milan

[vanwood]

the cut of this collection is odd; the cut is extremely feminine. the bust of the jackets and the shape through the hip is made to accomodate hips and breasts. the shape of the shoulders is also not particularly masculine. now there's such a thing as innovation and change of shape, but this is the feminization of men. it's aggrovated by the appearance of the models who lack that muscular development of a man (but some idiot is going too say something about blah blah models have to be thin to wear the clothes - no they don't). it's an odd collection for a house which isn't known to be on a good financial footing, and which has a revolving image in fashion. raf should create a stronger identity, and diverge from it less wildly. the more extreme designs would be better at a later date, after the house is re-established to a greater degree.

I couldnt disagree with you more, it seems you contradict yourself by talking about the cut and then say he needs to create a stronger indentity. As far as i know Jill is one of the collections everyone is looking at nowadays. I feel he is being provocative in a very classic way

 

[BerlinRocks]

oh i loved everything about the collection....
and then these shoes????
i cannot even imagine my feet in this....
i'm 44-45 so with this.... my feet would look 50-52.....
but i'm pretty sure this is because of the picture and the silhouette of the pants, non????

 

[Casius]

I have two shoes from the last collection and I'm a 45 and they don't look goofy at all. But remember, Jil's shoes fit remarkably big.

 

[ysljunkie]

I Like it alot.

 

[ysljunkie]

Its going to be nice to see what they do with those prints in the editorials.

 

[Believer]

a FW collection without any boots? Maybe It's just me, but I think boots is a must( rough climate here )

I really love everything except from the marble print stuff. The really skinny pants are amazing. even though Jil Sander is too expensive for me right now( 17 year old and studying) I will consider this sweater to be on my wish list/shopping list:

at least so far, Raf is a genius! Looking forward to see his mainline and even more Raf by Raf ( in my pricerange and the streetish look i prefer right now)

 

[Pastry]

Wow! One has to admit that the first thing that strikes you about this collection is the amazing fabric research. The twisted plaid, and the ribbed fabrics are amazing. I don't normally care for menswear; I seldom WANT something, but I am in love with many outerwear pieces in this collection.

Very wise thing to do too, because most people will always be taken by an amazing topper and will make the investment.

visconti, great things to say, as always. always a pleasure to read. I have to agree that there was no need for the drama that is those marbled outfits. A coat alone, with an all black ensemble would look great though, imo.

 

[Pastry]

are those like slight creepers?

oh, I just had to reply. The shoes are great too!

 

[lordevan]

this is nice. i need some narrow waisted suits.

 

[KindlyCuddly]

I love all the prints and the bags. <3

 

[ETROsexualJ]

oh i loved everything about the collection....
and then these shoes????
i cannot even imagine my feet in this....
i'm 44-45 so with this.... my feet would look 50-52.....
but i'm pretty sure this is because of the picture and the silhouette of the pants, non????

Yes; but, the thing with Jil has always been "bigger" shoes.

 

[gius]

gotta agree with Andrew on the feminine cut
however just for a little few
they curve at the waist, the sleeves are tapered
also a few have the shoulders quite rounded
curvaceous...

even myself, when i make clothes, i loathe to have that kind of super defined silhouette
it exaggerates my own body
but maybe other guys will like it

what makes me like loose and boxy cuts a lot more

anyway I think it's wonderful
the menswear is really moving forward now
i think the genius lies in the fresh silhouette here ...

 

[Bidwell]

The past few collections have been so boxy, the razor sharp definition in tailoring is welcome for me .
I have a vintage 30's blazer that has the same shaping and cigarette roll shoulder so it is nothing new just a reinterpretation of classic.
The graphic prints also takes Sander into new territory which is what a good designer should do.
I NEED THOSE SHOES............now

 

[MUXU]

it's hard to be a genius

triple props to raf at jil sander, both men's and women's like

 

[aybaybay]

the shoes look like they have leather soles.

i have a question. why do you all like this collection so much? the skinny trousers?

 

[tricotineacetat]

I like how Raf Simons always returns to his New Wave/Post-Punk roots but without ever translating that look into something retro-looking... The heavy leather soles on those lace-ups make the pants look even thinner than they are... it does help to make the silhouette appear even more graphic than it already is, when topped with those oversized jackets... very well done!

 

[JordanB]

This is my favorite menswear collection so far this season! Love it.
Glad to still see skinnies on the runway.

 

[Whimsicalist]

this is very nice collection!

immaculacy and shade(d) antropological forms.

cut to suit ,follow the most sophisticated human (bottom!)lines

 

[Zazie]

I'm trying to think why I don't dig this as much as I usually do, and then it strikes me that I liked it best when Raf Simons did a lot more fabric, texture, cut and colour experimentation with Jil Sander before. Prints are an "easier" way out somehow, but it is more surface and visual, so wished he had gone "deeper".

 

[ApertureRomance]

I was going to say I wonder what Fionn thought