I can't not compare Jil's comeback with Raf's debut at Dior ready-to-wear.
Recently, the 'minimalism' thing has emerged and everybody talks about it. It has became a fashion myth.
Can we say that there are different kinds of minimalism or the designer's approach make it more or less valuable as a fashion event?
Minimalism as a technique:
I perceive Jil's attempt to be stronger, her minimalism can be seen throughout all the garments. For she uses it as a technique of construction, the collection was cohesive but one might find it cold and unpassionate. Mrs. Sander's presence is felt strongly, but just because of the masterful use of the craft she is known for. Soul was very well hidden, or simply there was no need for it to be there.
Minimal - insufficient - touch:
Raf Simons is kind of absent too. His work is not incisive enough - it lacks a law of his own, if I may say. It takes maturity for a designer to portray themself as an artist and it seems that Raf has addopted this goal for his career. In order to express that art - the art of the minimal, in our case - he didn't find other alternative than to only work on the surface of the garment. However, he was limited by another choice he made (we can see it as an excuse too
to strictly respect the Dior legacy. In fact, his lack of confidence translated into boring collections. I can force myself to appreciate his attitude of superficial touch by saying that his recent works were
zen, but that works as an excuse as well.
A particular facet of fashion demands the piece of clothing to be an artifact. Precisely, a luxury artifact, produced by exclusive craftsmanship. It has to exist an extreme feeling of secrecy attached to the technique for the clothing to be considered high fashion by its consumers. In this sense, Mrs. Sander was succesfull, she didn't need to innovate because she already knows where she stands in the fashion industry. Maison Jil Sander as a medieval guild.
Politically, nevertheless, Sander's conservative task was easier to accomplish. She didn't have to take into consideration a huge past of accumulated tradition. Raf had to conciliate his own desire with a bigger structure behind him; Jil Sander had only to be herself and finally come back.
Great materials and techniques but always missing that zing.
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