I may also be suffering from minimalism fatigue. And I'm taking the point being advanced by Uemarasan and Scott that perhaps Jil is more about utility. But..if, broadly, this be minimalism (utilitarian minimalism?, minimal utilitarianism?)...
Because minimalism is about purity of form, about line, - if a designer fails to make any statement in the silhouette (or inject something from outside minimalism) the work can very quickly disappear into the trap of being all too vanilla, drab, pious, modest, provincial. This collection, I'm afraid, is frightfully dull. In all of those ways. What can we really say of the Jil Sander Jil Sander woman? That she's clean, that she works, that she's quiet, that she's modest. I'm sorry but she really isn't very interesting at all. She's a repressed throwback.
To those who would give a positive review, help me see it - Is there really anything novel or interesting about the silhouettes of this collection?
I see your point and I completely agree with the last paragraph but overall you managed to overly intellectualize, over-analyze, overread and overthink a good but simple collection with hit-or-miss sillhouettes that looks modest, non-threatening, but is widely considered to be a good attempt at modernizing the Jil Sander brand identity [semi-succesfully IMO].Not Plain Jane and Phuel have already given very eloquent responses, but I just want to add that Jil Sander as a designer is never about the novel, the trendy, or the chic. Her designs are not meant to be overly intellectualized, over-analyzed, overread, or bludgeoned into some kind of great aesthetic statement.
She already made it clear what her mission this season was: reset to zero. I think she succeeded in rescuing the integrity of her label from the aesthetic and intellectual burden of Raf Simons' legacy. What you find too vanilla, pious, modest and provincial I see as a purity of design. This is the antidote to all the superficiality, excess, and frivolousness that is Fashion Week.
I actually think this is the most, if not (along with Comme des Garcons) the only, relevant collection shown this season. Relevant in the context of the grander scheme of things, the world outside of fashion, because Lord knows that the industry can be so isolationist that it fails to be in dialogue with the rest of reality. Whereas the worlds of art and design are actively engaged in human lives, the world of fashion continues to recycle and regurgitate itself, clinging to old and obsolete ideals, celebrating the most inane of gods ("rivalries", "reputations", iconicism).
Jil Sander has always sought to erase herself from her designs, to avoid making voluble statements through her clothes, to veer away from paying homage to "fashion". She wants women to dress well. She respects their needs. And she believes in beauty, in craftsmanship, in skill in achieving this. There is utmost discipline here. Nothing is wasted. Not a sleeve, not a button, not a cuff, not a dart, not a zipper. In her own way, she takes part in the idea of sustainability, perhaps the most signficant issue now in the realms of art and design.
People can say it's only fashion, but it's not "just" fashion because it does participate in the fabric of our lives. It is an important business that thousands upon thousands make a living from. And there is the very simple fact that we wear clothes everyday. Clearly those who make clothes have a responsibility to address that which is beyond runways and retail shelves. It's so disappointing that even now there are so few voices that do that.
Maybe it's like this - you see it or you don't; taste is a fickle thing, and it's hard to "convince" someone to like something they don't.
But for me this collection is transcendent. As a woman, i.e., someone who would actually wear these clothes, this collection appeals on so many levels. It looks comfortable; it looks modern; it looks well designed; it looks stylish; some of it, one might even argue, looks sexy. Take, for example, look #10, that long white sleeveless jacket with those fitted neon-red-orange pants; to me that is a strong and attractive look - long, sleek bare arms, with a cool elongated silhouette, and then that spike of colour on the legs. Or what about the cut of the top in look #23, which almost fetishizes the shoulder, the way it's cut around it and emphasizes just that body part. Or perhaps the body hugging pencil skirt and jacket in look #27: fitted and black. It's subtle, but to me it's there. Still, Sander balances that subtle appeal with looser looks, or more severe looks, with many different looks. Easy, clean, & varied. Nothing is in your face. Except, maybe, the craftsmanship, which is clearly sublime.
This is clothing that doesn't shout; it whispers ... to me, that can be tantalizing.
Not Plain Jane and Phuel have already given very eloquent responses, but I just want to add that Jil Sander as a designer is never about the novel, the trendy, or the chic. Her designs are not meant to be overly intellectualized, over-analyzed, overread, or bludgeoned into some kind of great aesthetic statement.
She already made it clear what her mission this season was: reset to zero. I think she succeeded in rescuing the integrity of her label from the aesthetic and intellectual burden of Raf Simons' legacy. What you find too vanilla, pious, modest and provincial I see as a purity of design. This is the antidote to all the superficiality, excess, and frivolousness that is Fashion Week.
I actually think this is the most, if not (along with Comme des Garcons) the only, relevant collection shown this season. Relevant in the context of the grander scheme of things, the world outside of fashion, because Lord knows that the industry can be so isolationist that it fails to be in dialogue with the rest of reality. Whereas the worlds of art and design are actively engaged in human lives, the world of fashion continues to recycle and regurgitate itself, clinging to old and obsolete ideals, celebrating the most inane of gods ("rivalries", "reputations", iconicism).
Jil Sander has always sought to erase herself from her designs, to avoid making voluble statements through her clothes, to veer away from paying homage to "fashion". She wants women to dress well. She respects their needs. And she believes in beauty, in craftsmanship, in skill in achieving this. There is utmost discipline here. Nothing is wasted. Not a sleeve, not a button, not a cuff, not a dart, not a zipper. In her own way, she takes part in the idea of sustainability, perhaps the most signficant issue now in the realms of art and design.
People can say it's only fashion, but it's not "just" fashion because it does participate in the fabric of our lives. It is an important business that thousands upon thousands make a living from. And there is the very simple fact that we wear clothes everyday. Clearly those who make clothes have a responsibility to address that which is beyond runways and retail shelves. It's so disappointing that even now there are so few voices that do that.
Not Plain Jane and Phuel have already given very eloquent responses, but I just want to add that Jil Sander as a designer is never about the novel, the trendy, or the chic. Her designs are not meant to be overly intellectualized, over-analyzed, overread, or bludgeoned into some kind of great aesthetic statement.
She already made it clear what her mission this season was: reset to zero. I think she succeeded in rescuing the integrity of her label from the aesthetic and intellectual burden of Raf Simons' legacy. What you find too vanilla, pious, modest and provincial I see as a purity of design. This is the antidote to all the superficiality, excess, and frivolousness that is Fashion Week.
I actually think this is the most, if not (along with Comme des Garcons) the only, relevant collection shown this season. Relevant in the context of the grander scheme of things, the world outside of fashion, because Lord knows that the industry can be so isolationist that it fails to be in dialogue with the rest of reality. Whereas the worlds of art and design are actively engaged in human lives, the world of fashion continues to recycle and regurgitate itself, clinging to old and obsolete ideals, celebrating the most inane of gods ("rivalries", "reputations", iconicism).
Jil Sander has always sought to erase herself from her designs, to avoid making voluble statements through her clothes, to veer away from paying homage to "fashion". She wants women to dress well. She respects their needs. And she believes in beauty, in craftsmanship, in skill in achieving this. There is utmost discipline here. Nothing is wasted. Not a sleeve, not a button, not a cuff, not a dart, not a zipper. In her own way, she takes part in the idea of sustainability, perhaps the most signficant issue now in the realms of art and design.
People can say it's only fashion, but it's not "just" fashion because it does participate in the fabric of our lives. It is an important business that thousands upon thousands make a living from. And there is the very simple fact that we wear clothes everyday. Clearly those who make clothes have a responsibility to address that which is beyond runways and retail shelves. It's so disappointing that even now there are so few voices that do that.
What Jil's offering this season delivers is the requisite quietitude of minimalism (call it the Zen calm if we will). I note you raise sustainability etc. I'm afraid that hairshirt eco piety is a leftover from early 90s green minimalism. The trail to the erstwhile, the campaigny holier-than-thou, the political, was what ultimately killed off that ecru linen strain of 'functional' minimalism. That way was light but unbearable. Since 2009 (Costa earlier) he, Costa, Phoebe, Miuccia and Raf have, somewhat tortously at times, been reinventing minimalism. Where they have arrived at, particularly this season, is spiritualism and sex.
Note how sheer, stripped down and/or dripping wet all the aforementioned designers have been this season. Jil is solid, functional, wearable-commercial, yes. But, in relative terms, her work, along the heat axis, is, I'm afraid, vanilla. Safe. You are saying so yourself.
On that point that one should'nt bludgeon Jil to the intellectual realm - well, ok, treat her as some sort of diffusion line then, derivative? I mentioned silhouettes in my earlier piece. I've realised that Jil's shapes for the season in fact are derived from those of Comme de Garcons and Prada last season. Pushed back to be more commercial yes, but those houses do have intellect. But you'd rather I just allow that, because of the commercial wearbility you wish for, I say the shapes are second cycle copies rather than insustantiating a notion of Jil being 'in dialogue'? We don't want any depth in our Jil? So long as it is nice to wear in the sense of non-controversial, modest, non-wasteful and such?
I've realised that you've an easy answer to my final point there - no that's not what you want - you said so. So, fine, Jil is for you then. But don't let the understanding of what Jil is stave you off from an appreciation of what she isn't. Her lack.
But, whatevs, we all have different ideas of fashion and clothes that enchant us and we are obliged to pursue our own preferences.
I see your point and I completely agree with the last paragraph but overall you managed to overly intellectualize, over-analyze, overread and overthink a good but simple collection with hit-or-miss sillhouettes that looks modest, non-threatening, but is widely considered to be a good attempt at modernizing the Jil Sander brand identity [semi-succesfully IMO].
Yes early 90's minimalism is dead. Post millenial minimalism is a whole different kettle.
There seems to be some kind of miscommunication, because it seems that you are collapsing minimalism together with sustainability, or that I gave that impression in my response?
When I refer to sustainability I am not referring to the 90s Ferngully, Michael Jackson Earth Song, Captain Planet and the Planeteers brand of earth-hugging consciousness. I am referring to the serious scientific and political discussion of already palpable consequences, not just environmentally speaking but also with regards to human development, social justice, and economics. How is this dead or dated? The recent Venice Architecture Biennale was actually criticized for not doing enough to address issues of urbanism and human scale by still worshipping at the churches of the starchitects. Yves Behar and Architecture for Humanity are now among the most influential and important voices in design. Castaing-Taylor and Paravel's Leviathan is cinema's use of anthropology, essay, and film to stimulate discussion about biological systems and human presence. And when the most recent Olympics and the upcoming one were designed with sustainability expressly in mind, I can hardly call that a mere "leftover" from the 90s.
And when I say I admire Jil's purity, integrity, and discipline, I am saying that these are aesthetics that could very well fit into the paradigms of sustainability. With respect to what is going on outside of the industry, what else marks someone like Wang Shu's designs but the three ideals mentioned above? This is why I think what Jil stands for and has always stood for remain entirely relevant. That she achieves this without the need to make an aethetic statement, to follow a trend, to start a trend, in fact without the need to participate in "fashion" dialogue speaks volumes about the honesty of her approach. She makes clothes in this manner, for these simple and almost pure purposes and beliefs, and, intentional or not, I see this way of working and creating as fitting into the current milieu of social intelligence and awareness.
Mutterlein has already summarized and reiterated what I want to say better than I could ever hope to. Thank you for being so articulate.
Thank you too Uemarasan. I respect that in you also. And that we've been able to have a lively discussion without getting tiffy. And that you've extended my understanding of Jil's work. I will just say that if that's her ethic then, given when she came to prominence, if it's always been her outlook, then she is essentially of that early 90s movement you see as necessary to propigate but which I'm less sure about.
I guess I just like trends. It's kind of tied up with that sociological thing of reading where fashion is proposing we go in how we represent ourselves in society. Then seeing who's following who and stuff.
As almost a humorous aside, I hope you'll see, on the whole climate change eco thing - I read that warming phenomenen could be attributed merely to planatary movements including spatial relationship to the sun, alignment with MilkyWay etc. If it is to do with the cosmos there's not a lot we can do about it so we may as well party or do whatever Connects, if you want to go there, don't have to, to some stuff to do with winter solstice 2012. The Mayan calendar.
PS. This collections feels more severe compared to her past offerings. I remember quite a few past collections with some cute flowery numbers, colourful prints and flowy dresses. And it was Vukmirovic who had a sportier, more minimal approach to the brand.
The rest of the world continues to be very much involved with the sustainability movement. It seems like only the fashion industry continues to play dumb... Well, those at its forefront, anyway.
Hmm, a fashion celebration in the midst of utter nihilism. That would have made for an interesting narrative. I think McQueen did a collection that perfectly encapsulated that (F/W 2009).
I'm sure people are tired of my long-windedness already, so apologies for that. Anyway, I think I've exhausted all that I have to say here