there was a story in todays wwd about target's apparel lines. it explains the delay in putting out jovovich hawk (it may have something to do with the slowdown in the economy and the impending recession here)
-One criticism of Target is that "they're constantly making little bets with Go and other brands. Merona and Cherokee are the more basic parts of their program," said a retail consultant. "The problem is on overall trend identification." Mossimo, a multiproduct brand, has been a staple at Target since 2000 and is still very much a part of the assortment. And Target is said to be launching Whim by Cynthia Rowley in April, but there won't be any apparel, just novelty items such as outdoor games and inflatable pools.
Go International, the retailer's short-term tie-ups with young designers such as Proenza Schouler, Erin Fetherston and Behnaz Sarafpour, has long raised questions about how much revenue it generates in Target stores. While building the profile of the young designers, the collections generally aren't sold in all Target stores and are seen by many as primarily a marketing exercise. And even here, Target is facing increasing competition with fast-fashion lines: Where once it had the field to itself, stores such as H&M are now signing up the likes of Roberto Cavalli, Karl Lagerfeld and Stella McCartney.
Erin Armendinger, managing director of the Jay Baker Retailing Initiative at the Wharton School of the University of Pennsylvania, said the frequency of Go may be a lot for the average consumer to digest. "The collections were supposed to be out for three months, then they shortened it to six weeks," she said. "It's too much for the consumer, given that the designers are a little quirky and too out there."
What also may be ailing Target is what's ailing the industry at large: a decided lack of salable newness. A lack of novelty along with a tough economy is a double whammy for the discounter.
Bill Dreher, a retail analyst at Deutsche Bank, noted Target reined in its buyers as the economy worsened, which led to the drab assortments. "As far back as April, when they started recognizing the [economic] slowdown, management was clamping down on buyers to reduce risk in form of inventory levels as well as the variety of the product," he said. "We interpreted that to mean that they were limiting buyers to the more mainstream fashions and colors, those more likely to be accepted and have very strong sell-throughs. They limited the creativity of the buyers because they wanted to reduce inventory risk. They only wanted to go with the strong sellers."
Mizrahi's departure will put pressure on Target to inject some newness into its assortments. "I wouldn't be surprised if Target ends up picking one of the Go designers for a 12-months-a-year program," said Dreher. "Given the nature of the business, consumers are moving away from apparel. They're losing a designer in a category that's not doing well right now. It wouldn't behoove the company to find a household name who one day stood for premier fashion and no longer does. I suspect they're going to go out and find another has-been designer to provide class for the masses."
In addition to Mizrahi's business in stores, there's a large wedding and party shop on the Target Web site, featuring gowns, veils, headpieces, gloves, bridesmaids dresses, shoes, handbags and formal dresses. Many, but not all, of the products carry the Mizrahi label. "They haven't really disclosed what they'll do with Isaac's bridal business," Hood said. "Other [designers] will come in and do that. At least for the time being, they'll continue to grow it. Bridal is successful."
But, while the seesaw appears to be flipping, with Wal-Mart now on the rise, there's little doubt Target's apparel business will get back on a strong growth track. "They've got a strong track record developing merchandise content and developing ideas," said Seesel. "This is more macroeconomic." -