Who Will Succeed John Galliano At Dior? #2 *Update Raf Simons Offically Hired*

[Ives927]

I don't think Jil Sander and Dior could ever be compared. They are two completely different fashion houses.

I also don't understand why people keep saying Raf's SS12 Jil collection was an audition for Dior. It was so clinical and minimal, everything Dior is not.
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[Squizree]

^ No, that's everything Galliano isn't. The house of Christian Dior was never excessive and ultra-elaborate to begin with. Raf Simons' minimalist aesthetic could work with Dior's New Look very well. Raf could so pinched waists, full skirts and strong shoulders too. THAT'S what Christian Dior is about.

 

[Ives927]

^ I am aware. Everything I mentioned was referring to the current state of Dior. Dior has been associated with ultra glamor with both Ferre and Galliano. Unless the newly appointed creative director decides to return Dior to the 40's, Dior currently is NOT clinical nor minimal. And Dior IS synonymous with Galliano, and THAT's how Dior has been for the past decades.

It's like saying Givenchy isn't dark because Hubert's aesthetic wasn't. It HAS been since McQueen to Tisci. And that associates the brand with the new aesthetic implemented by the new creative directors.

 

[valliaddict]

but, on the other hand, just imagine jil sander f/w 2010 collection at dior. like, lara croft as the inspiration for the season and those sad boots and bags as the must haves.

Do you honestly think Dior would let him do something like that!?! I think LVMH let him know right after Galliano's firing that he was a contender, therefore he has been trying a softer & more feminine side to his work. I think he has what it takes. I mean, weren't those peplum maxiskirts in the Jil Sander S/S 11 collection just amazing? I could see shapes like that in his Dior shows.

 

[Squizree]

^ Yes but there's a difference between Galliano/Dior and Tisci/Givenchy. Tisci's gothic glamour is totally off-key with Hubert's aesthetic, but Galliano's mega-flamboyant collections have always followed the original Dior look. And that's what I meant before. I understand that Dior has become synonymous with Galliano, but Galliano hasn't created a new silhouette like Tisci has. Galliano's Dior was still very much about New Look. And I think that Raf can also achieve that. But I understand what you're saying too. The house has come too far to go back to cleaner Dior, and I think most people don't want it to.

 

[Ives927]

^ Yes and that was what I was trying to get at. People nowadays, especially those that are not familiar with the history of Christian Dior, will only automatically associate Dior for what it has been under Galliano's direction. With new clean lines and a minimalistic approach to design, it would seem to have come out of left field.

 

[Squizree]

^ Exactly, that's why there are so many people who still want Galliano to return.

 

[Ives927]

^ In response to that, ahaha, I kinda want him back, too. I think Galliano deserves to be cut some slack. He was brilliant at what he does best. It was match made in heaven.

 

[JulienHSM]

If Raf coming to Dior means kicking Kris Van Assche out I'm not too happy about it. He is doing a great job for the menswear, a bit slow, but he surely has a direction.

 

[mikel]

The house of Christian Dior was never excessive.

The New Look not excessive?!?

 

[Squizree]

^ No. I don't see anything excessive about this:

It's quite basic and very clean, something that Raf Simons can more than conjure up if he were to create a collection for the house. THIS is excessive:

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vogue.co.uk

 

[mikel]

The second picture is not an example of the New Look.

I guess excessive can be interpreted as 'with lots of embellishments' as in the last two looks. But using twenty yards of expensive and extravagant fabric for one garment and ignoring the post-war fabric restriction seems pretty excessive to me.

 

[Squizree]

^ Of course, no doubt. But obviously I meant it in creative terms only.

 

[mikel]

^ In that regard you're right

 

[LagerfeldBoy]

If Raf coming to Dior means kicking Kris Van Assche out I'm not too happy about it. He is doing a great job for the menswear, a bit slow, but he surely has a direction.

Oh YES, if it means replacing Kris, then by all means, let them hire Raf. Imho, Kris has always been such a bad fit for the menswear line. Thinking about, if Raf does design for the menswear, it'd be absolutely fantastic!

 

[Crying Diamonds]

The second picture is not an example of the New Look.

I guess excessive can be interpreted as 'with lots of embellishments' as in the last two looks. But using twenty yards of expensive and extravagant fabric for one garment and ignoring the post-war fabric restriction seems pretty excessive to me.

Yes, the New Look was extremely excessive when it was introduced - the skirts were cut from full circles of fabric to create that enormous volume - imagine how much fabric a skirt like that posted would have used. Plus, Dior re-introduced corsetry and all of the mechanics involved in them, all of this demolished any simplicity and natural beauty designers like Chanel had established previously.

I am getting more and more excited about Raf's first collection for Dior - if I see any direct referencing to archive I will be highly disappointed - I am sick to death of the New Look just from Galliano reinventing it repeatedly, if Dior were still alive I'm sure he'd have had the imagination to come up with something different by now.
My only concern is that, because of the current Dior customer, Raf may have to turn his sterile, colour-blocked designs into something much more chiffon and beaded, I hope he can work this without destroying his unique aesthetic - I imagine a pixelated ethereal.
This is the sort of exciting change that I've been waiting for - someone has stopped hiring the designers we know can do Dior and has taken a risk with someone who is the opposite of the decadence and Victorianism of the house.
I cannot wait - it will be the ticket of the season.

 

[mikeijames]

Do you honestly think Dior would let him do something like that!?! I think LVMH let him know right after Galliano's firing that he was a contender, therefore he has been trying a softer & more feminine side to his work. I think he has what it takes. I mean, weren't those peplum maxiskirts in the Jil Sander S/S 11 collection just amazing? I could see shapes like that in his Dior shows.

yes, the couture fantasies that raf did for jil sander remain the stuff of the fashion firmament, but i just wonder if the house of dior remains an environment where that sort of creativity would flourish. remember, raf simons had the freedom to bring the house of jil sander to the couture. i question whether he'll have the same flexibility at a house like dior to bring them to a more modern moment. in that freedom lies the freedom to fail hence one season of lara croft tomb raider and the next a masterful couture show.

as we have all noted, christian dior has a different relationship with arnault than the rest of the lvmh properties and one can see it in the collections galliano put out during the borehouse years: simply compare the creative freedom of dundas at pucci (or tisci at givenchy or jacobs at vuitton or philo at celine) to the past few years of galliano at dior.

 

[mdankwah]

^You've hit the nail on the head about the relationship of Christian Dior and Bernard Arnault. To me it feels like he's trying to focus attention back onto the brand itself and what it stands for, going back to the core values of Dior, for which a designer like Raf Simons is a perfect match. A much more discrete and private alternative to John Galliano.
You mentioned Philo and you can add in Sarah Burton at McQueen. Both these designers are very private individuals allowing their creativity to shine through. And I honestly feel this is what Raf will bring to Dior, a keen respect for the heritage of the brand coupled with his unique aesthetic without all the unnecessary fuss and drama that Dior needs right now

 

[JuiceMajor]

i wasn't sure about Raf but i am kinda excited what he will do with Dior! it is definitely exciting time and will keep people interested in Dior post-galliano!

plus, taking over dior homme is definitely going to be an good one. just can't imagine what hedi might feel!

 

[Deleted member 7575]

i wasn't sure about Raf but i am kinda excited what he will do with Dior! it is definitely exciting time and will keep people interested in Dior post-galliano!

plus, taking over dior homme is definitely going to be an good one. just can't imagine what hedi might feel!

it would be the ultimate revenge