Dior is possibly the most iconic fashion house in the world, (or at least it used to be). So why are brands such as Chloe and Lanvin and even YSL Rive Gauche through Pilati's spectacles seems to be defeating this "icon"? Perhaps, because they all have respect for the label's past. Or is it because the likes of Alber Elbaz and Phoebe Philo found out that cheeky crotch pineapples and psychedelic designs aren't going to conquer the crowd? To be honest, I don't think weird denim suits when I think Dior. I think of a big black gown. Galliano has talent for creating beautiful things (couture), we've all seen it, but maybe he doesn't quite comprehend what ready-to-wear Christian Dior needs to be today. I am not excited about Dior anymore.
Is John Galliano Wrong for Dior?
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plumage19 said:
Well. Gallianos previous design sensibility was to put something absurd on the runway but stock the stores with gorgeous wearable versions. In all of Galliano's Dior shows, embedded is the seed of a trend, that's why I love his shows so much. The current style is gorgeous ready-to-wear that straddles the line of wearable and non wearable perfectly, he totally went to the unwearable with the F/W 04 collection, it was just too much. The F/W 05 was excellent, everything was sooo wearable and gorgeous at the same time, he has proved he's talented.
I know that Dior makes more money than Lanvin, YSL and Chloe. Ever since Galliano hit the scene Dior's been raking in the cash. If you're talking editorials and the such Dior hasn't been very hot recently, not since F/W 03 have they been saturating Vogue (and other mags) like Lanvin, YSL and Chloe have been. It seems like Galliano was in an off period, though for Fall I think Dior will be all over the mags.
I think, personally, it's like Diorling said. Recently, especially with the birth of the ladylike trend that dominated the last few seasons, Dior took a back seat in the ready to wear arena to labels such as Lanvin, Prada, Rochas....
But when it comes to the couture, Dior rarely fails to wow the fashion world with feats of technique, imagination and, once they're scaled down for the client, beautifully made clothes. I think fashion needs people like Galliano at Dior to keep itself going, if everybody was dependable and practical and never missed a step along the way, fashion would be boring. Dior ready to wear had it's time in the limelight a few years ago, now other brands are the ones to watch, but I don't think that makes Dior any less influential or important to fashion.
Basically, I think Galliano is an asset to Dior....before him Dior was a stuffy old world couture house with a great past but a not so promising present. Fashion has become less grand as of late, but mark my words, Dior will have it's comeback very soon, I can feel it.
But when it comes to the couture, Dior rarely fails to wow the fashion world with feats of technique, imagination and, once they're scaled down for the client, beautifully made clothes. I think fashion needs people like Galliano at Dior to keep itself going, if everybody was dependable and practical and never missed a step along the way, fashion would be boring. Dior ready to wear had it's time in the limelight a few years ago, now other brands are the ones to watch, but I don't think that makes Dior any less influential or important to fashion.
Basically, I think Galliano is an asset to Dior....before him Dior was a stuffy old world couture house with a great past but a not so promising present. Fashion has become less grand as of late, but mark my words, Dior will have it's comeback very soon, I can feel it.
Mutterlein
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I would actually like to see Hedi Slimane take on all design duties at Dior. The more I think about it the more I like that idea.
It's not so much that I don't like Galliano but I sometimes feel like he's done all he can for the house and it's for it to move on in a different direction.
It's not so much that I don't like Galliano but I sometimes feel like he's done all he can for the house and it's for it to move on in a different direction.
Galliano managed to create buzz which generated serious sales. It's been very successful from a business point of view. "Artistically" I think he is and was totally unsuitable for Dior.
The shows are vulgar (but fun!) spectacles, and even though the clothes that end up in shops are more wearable, Galliano can't make a believable Dior IMO.
The shows are vulgar (but fun!) spectacles, and even though the clothes that end up in shops are more wearable, Galliano can't make a believable Dior IMO.
i'm pretty sure most of you know how i stand on this subject, and i feel that i needn't re-iterate over and over. john galliano turned the house of dior from something that was once stuffy and old-hat, into something fashion-forward and modern that every woman could (and would) desire. yes he's pushed things to the limit, but you must remember that he sees the runway as a creative outlet for his ideas. underneath all the insanity lies the seed of a trend. the fall 2004 haute couture and ready to wear collections completely sent this idea to the limit, and ushered in the end of an era for dior. spring 2005 and fall 2005 show the new direction that john is taking the label in. he's letting everyone know what dior is really about. it isn't spectacle. in the end, it's about beautiful clothes. he's bringing dior back to what it used to be in the early days of his career there, and frankly i think this is a smart move. the clothes in the fall ready to wear catwalk presentation were absolutely amazing... but wait til you see what'll be hitting the boutiques 
My instincts tell me that would be a bad idea. But it certainly would be "interesting". As amazing as Galliano's shows are, I'm kind of disappointed that he's what the House of Dior has become. Just doesn't seem right to me. Eh...Mutterlein said:
Mutterlein
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AlexN said:
I think Slimane would bring the focus on classic Paris elegance that Theyskens and Elbaz do for their houses. I think he would also do a better job at making it more relevant and contemporary as Slimane is all about progress but he is also about craftsmanship and the couture tradition.
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Slimane is going to take over Chanel once Karl kicks the bucket (mark my words...)
As far as Galliano for Dior...the most important colour every season is green and Galliano gets people to part with theirs pretty easily. Galliano has an immense respect for the house and an immense respect for himself. His collections, to me at least, have been about the inherent contradictions that present themselves in such a relationship. But I'm glad he kicked up his heels--Dior is dead after all. No reason to make the house some constant seance. Change, if not good, is inevitable.
As far as Galliano for Dior...the most important colour every season is green and Galliano gets people to part with theirs pretty easily. Galliano has an immense respect for the house and an immense respect for himself. His collections, to me at least, have been about the inherent contradictions that present themselves in such a relationship. But I'm glad he kicked up his heels--Dior is dead after all. No reason to make the house some constant seance. Change, if not good, is inevitable.
I think Galliano manages to bring something new to fashion every season and has the fashion world buzzing after every show he does which mirrors exactly what Christian Dior himself achieved in his time. So i'm sure he is turning in his grave.
Mutterlein
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I don't know, ideas of elegance, couture, refinement, and beauty that were characteristc of Monsieur Dior have really been detached from what John has done. John definetly stirs the crowd but a lot comes from cheap gimmicks, flashy colors, and revealing clothes, nothing truly substantial. This is not what Monsieur Dior did. Theyskens, Elbaz, and Ghesquire receive so much praise not because they are quiet and reference the archives but because they continue the essential values of the house and interpret them in a modern and relevant way. Galliano did push the house into the 21st century and totally revived it but his formula for theatrics, celebrity indulgence, and gimmicks has run short which is evident by his recent and drastic change in approach. I liked it in the beginning when John used Dior as a forum to work out ideas of Couture and it's relevance and not so much about flashy clothes for spoiled rich girls with poor taste (dior surf chick ahem).
Whether or not you like his designs, you can't deny Dior is one of the most profitable houses out there, simply because his flashy collections are an amazing marketing tool even if the clothing doesn't sell well.
Every season even casual fashion observers hear and see at least some of Dior's show, which in turn creates extra sales of accessories, makeup, perfume, etc. From the business side of things I think Galliano's eccentricity is perfect for them.
Every season even casual fashion observers hear and see at least some of Dior's show, which in turn creates extra sales of accessories, makeup, perfume, etc. From the business side of things I think Galliano's eccentricity is perfect for them.
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