PARIS: The covered-over swimming pool at the Ritz hotel was the fashion territory of the lateGianni Versace. So it made a fitting runway for the 1980s redux at Balmain's show on Thursday.
With pagoda shoulders, sparkling fabrics, quilted leather and metal studs, not to mention hunks of crystal, the designer Christophe Decarnin's show looked very familiar - not least because new ideas were as short as the models' brief, buttock-grazing hemlines.
As Diana Ross, the Jackson Five and Sister Sledge ramped up the soundtrack, the theme was "Versace takes a trip" - short skirts thrusting from cut-away long gowns and all the metal mesh and silvered chains that the earlier era once owned. Even the cobalt blue, the single stand-out color among black or white, had an '80s edge.
The Balmain show was as disco as it was frisky and its appeal was simple: sexy chic. Or should that be "sexy chick" because, with their messy hair and bare legs above faintly fetishistic boots, this was not about Parisian glamour but a global hard-partying look.
The clothes are what are vulgarly known as "result" dressing. And the result is certainly wondrous for Balmain, which has gone from being fusty to feisty, making Decarnin the unlikely hero of the Euro-trash set. New insertions were a one-shoulder frill, and harem pants open at the front as a window on the legs. There was even a hint of sportswear in a sparkle-striped boyfriend sweater and the glittering white cardigan and T-shirt that closed the show.
Since every other house copies his approach, Decarnin will have to find a way to move Balmain forward. But for now he remains, at this sobering-up moment, the last designer to leave the party.