Christian Dior Haute Couture F/W 2018.19 Paris

[Nymphaea]

Sad and oldish collection.

 

[Lola701]

And its just me or the crowd is smaller this year? Dior HC shows used to be so full of people..

They might had 2 shows. I know they have done it before and Chanel is doing it this season.
1 show for the press and celebrities and the other one for the clients and friends of the house.

 

[Mathewthew]

While the snoozefest critique still stands very much, I couldn't help but notice how flawlessly cut, constructed and finished most of it was. A lot of couture collections these days look rushed, so at least it's a positive that her Dior is always impeccably made - though I'm not sure we should be thanking her or the atelier for it; probably a mix of both. So.. yeah, that's as far as I can go with the compliments here.

The nude colour collection is nice, the tulle dresses are working, but I wouldn’t say it’s flawless when I saw the last couple satin dresses. They should know better how to work with this fabric since they are a couture house. It’s not easy to master with this fabric and I know I shouldn’t judge by the photos only, but some of the finishing is bad and people are paying lots of money for the dress and they need to work a little bit better.

 

[madzedre]

what a joke

 

[Scotty]

Were all those similar nude gowns necessary?

 

[CholoChic]

you can have all these dresses and still do not know what to wear

 

[lewak]

I'd have grouped the nudes completely
I'd have nuked the end group completely

 

[CholoChic]

you can have all these dresses and still do not HAVE what to wear

you can have all these dresses and still do not know what to wear

 

[Marc10]

All those beige looks started to blend like one huge blur.

 

[lelaid]

The construction on some of those pieces is appalling, especially for couture. For a house with such a long, rich and respected history, it's just a disgrace.

 

[billiejbob]

Embarrassing. Really embarrassing.
How stylists, models, celebrities praise her is beyond me.
It's just sad.

 

[Perickles]

It hurts

 

[IsabelMarantBoy]

I enjoy reading the reviews of her Dior collections because they don’t hold the punches, and I’ve read more than one review where they call her out on being boring and not bringing enough of the fashion element to her runway shows.

 

[Fashionstuff]

So boring.
73 couture pieces is a big collection but so boring.Maybe last few gowns were good, can imagine on red carpet. But the her princess gowns are looking like Elie Saab creations.

 

[GivenchyAddict]

"How to fall asleep in 72 looks" by Maria Grazia Chiuri .

 

[mistress_f]

wow, what an incredibly boring collection. i've never been a great fan of her dior, but there's usually something that catches my attention- the outerwear, mostly, or some beautiful dress... but here? i got nothing

 

[tricotineacetat]

While I'm inclined to agree that it's for the most part a repetitive collection with more of the expected from MGC, that last passage of ultra-clean gowns in silk mikado are gorgeous in their purity and construction - More accomplished than most of the gowns that Raf Simons put on the runway.

 

[Benn98]

Here we go again with 'the modern woman'......wasn't that Raf's creative direction?

Maria Grazia Chiuri wants to empower women through couture

The Italian designer looked to Alison Bancroft’s book ‘Fashion and Psychoanalysis’ for inspiration at Dior, questioning whether it was possible to push forward couture while still staying true to its rules

2 July 2018
Text - Emma Hope Allwood

We’re now well into the third day of AW18’s Haute Couture shows, with off-schedule presentations from Miu Miu and Vetements down, and Chanel and Maison Margiela’s shows still to come. But we’re getting ahead of ourselves: first up, we’re at Dior, where Maria Grazia Chiuri set out to redefine couture for the modern woman. Here's everything you need to know.

THE SET WAS TAKEN FROM DIOR’S SMASH EXHIBITION

Christian Dior: Couturier du Rêve took place in Paris throughout 2017, and saw queues snaking around the block the whole time it ran. At the centre of the exhibition was a room featuring floor to ceiling mannequins dressed in toiles – the pieces created from cotton calico which act as a mock-up before the final garment is made. The room was recreated in the show space, with alcoves in the walls displaying dresses, jackets, coats, and various other styles.

WHICH TIED IN TO YESTERDAY’S ANNOUNCEMENT...

…that the exhibition was set to make its way to London, as the V&A’s major fashion show for 2019. When the exhibition was in Paris, over 700,000 people visited and the average queueing time was over four hours. So, basically, get your tickets now.

A BOOK ON FASHION AND PSYCHOANALYSIS WAS AN INSPIRATION

Alison Bancroft’s Fashion and Psychoanalysis, a 2012 book which explores 20th century fashion through the lense of psychoanalytic theory, was an inspiration for designer Maria Grazia Chiuri this season. Particularly, it was Bancroft’s chapter on haute couture, which explores the “irrational, decadent, and maligned world” of fashion’s most exclusive sector. As the designer explained in the show notes, she was exploring whether it was possible to stay faithful to the rules decreed by the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture, while simultaneously breaking them down to create a new order.

THE COLLECTION ITSELF WAS A NEW, PROGRESSIVE TAKE ON COUTURE

...which was designed to empower rather than restrict. In the time since she took the reins at the historic French house, Maria Grazia has made her commitment to celebrating and championing women clear, after all. This manifested itself in dynamic takes on classic Dior tropes: slim-fitting but loose bar jackets and trousers that skimmed the ankle, pleated capes, embroidered kimono-style smoking jackets, and floor-sweeping gowns, all in soft, feminine shades of blush and nude with khaki and navy accents. A key accessory was a black beret with a net veil. As worn by many of the models, it was a look that tread the line between tradition and modernity.

DAZED 100ers ADESUWA AND GISELE FOX WALKED

At the end of the show came a series of colourful, feminine gowns crafted from luxurious silk satin. Models wearing them included this year’s Dazed 100-ers Adesuwa and Gisele Fox, who took over the @dazedfashion IG ahead of the show. Head here to check it out.

Source: Dazeddigital.com

 

[squilliam]

These are all silhouettes and designs she's done before, except she usually puts cheesy or garish prints all over them to hide their lack of design, and since she didn't do that here you can see how bland and uninspired things are. The frothy embellished dresses look like elie saab or Georges hobeika. All the satin looks don't appear well constructed, and look a bit cheap. And those satin gowns at the end (except maybe the red one, which looks like a raf for dior dress) look like bridesmaid dresses, and that's not good.
She's been churning out the same designs repeatedly in different fabrics since she got to this house.

 

[squilliam]

I want to champion her because she is a rare woman designer in a male dominated field but yet, I can't because all she did was doing the most basic things and she wants praises for putting the word "feminist" on high fashion. What's the difference between that and riding someone's coat tail to the top? That's not a way to empower.

I think her being a bad designer kind of hurts women designers in a way, because she clearly doesn't have the talent for this position so it can look like that she was hired for political correctness and to get attention more than for her skills (not that I think that's what happened). I feel like it would make other women designers be taken less seriously, if that makes any sense.