Vogue Paris August 2016 : Luna Bijl by David Sims

[Benn98]

I don't think this issue is terrible, but when will someone save us from this 80s hell the magazine is permanently trapped in?

I'm convinced some internal memo does the rounds demanding at least 2 x 80's styled edits for every issue. How else can one explain this then? VP is so out of touch with the rest of the fashion titles, it's not even funny. However good these edits may look to everyone now, it will get stale again and people will get fed up. There's only so many ways to reinterpret the 80's. Part of the reason why I like Suzanne Koller's edit is because it's the only one providing some diversion, something which resonates with 'now' instead of 'then'. Clearly it would appear that Alt is trapped in some crazy 80's time warp, so she's a bit of a lost cause. My suggestion would be to push the rest of her stylists into different directions, and hopefully giving them covers more often. That would result in some balance.

 

[Bertrando3]

RAQUEL !!!!!!!!!!! It´s also nice to see Arizona and Anja, but is it possible for Vogue Paris to get OUT of the 80´s for good now?? I agree with you Benn98, what they do at this magazine is soooo out of touch with what everybody else is doing in fashion it´s not even funny. And being French myself I also know it does not translate at all what is in the country or in Paris for that matter.

 

[gossiping]

i actually think this is a terrible issue

probably their worst this year

 

[Lola701]

RAQUEL !!!!!!!!!!! It´s also nice to see Arizona and Anja, but is it possible for Vogue Paris to get OUT of the 80´s for good now?? I agree with you Benn98, what they do at this magazine is soooo out of touch with what everybody else is doing in fashion it´s not even funny. And being French myself I also know it does not translate at all what is in the country or in Paris for that matter.

You know how people are kinda over-nostalgic about the 80's here. It was the last great decade for France and it culture in a way...
Vogue Paris has never been so much about what's going on with the counrty but the parisian fashion scene is certainly trying (for years) to recreate the energy of the 80's...

 

[Benn98]

Vogue Paris has never been so much about what's going on with the country...

You're certainly right there! VP used to be more of a commanding presence in the fashion industry at large. Now they're not, and they also don't reflect what's happening in France (as Bertrando is pointing out), so what's their purpose?

 

[tigerrouge]

That said, does UK Vogue reflect what's going on in the country, or is it about the idyllic lifestyles of a small subsection of Londoners?

 

[liberty33r1b]

Raquel, Arizona, the 80s, and Michele's Gucci = everything that's wrong about fashion right now

 

[Legolas]

Raquel, Arizona, the 80s, and Michele's Gucci = everything that's wrong about fashion right now

Why is Raquel wrong about fashion?

 

[gossiping]

That said, does UK Vogue reflect what's going on in the country, or is it about the idyllic lifestyles of a small subsection of Londoners?

i don't think any vogue reflects any country right now

 

[Lola701]

You're certainly right there! VP used to be more of a commanding presence in the fashion industry at large. Now they're not, and they also don't reflect what's happening in France (as Bertrando is pointing out), so what's their purpose?

To sell a lifestyle and to inspire a parisian aesthetic for all our national brands (Sandro, The Kooples, Maje..etc.).
Before, VP was about a particular lifestyle (a certain idea of LA PARISIENNE) but also about style and fashion. I mean, their top main editors were working for some of the most influencial brands in the world and their assistant were working for the most important comtemporary brands in the world.

But Vogue Paris has never reflected what's happening in France, that's why it's called VOGUE PARIS. It's about the parisian scene.

Where the parisian scene goes when they are on vacation? St Barth, St Jean Cap Ferrat, Cote d'Azur, Gstaad, Biarritz... Those places are the set of VP eds.

Joan Juliet Buck's Vogue was a american vision of France. Her Vogue was much more than Paris. Her Vogue was in a way more intellectual.

 

[Phuel]

^^^ Great points, Lola.

Even when Emmanuelle stumbles from time to time, she never falls flat on her face— and by that, I mean she never looses direction, or lacks direction and always remember that high fashion is exclusive, expensive, heightened, hyper and with attitude, and she never stoops to cater to everyone, like Anna’s braindead Vogue does (and the alarming number of magazines that follow that template to sell). I’m still inspired by Emmanuelle's image of women. I do get wary of this late-70s/80s thing she’s still on, but like Hedi and his oftentimes 80s music scene tributes, she does it so well without a hint of camp, or caricature, that I’ve grown to like it.

And I’ve grown to appreciate Emmanuelle’s confident direction of who the Parisian woman is— so I don’t long for Carine’s days. I only miss Fabien’s sharpness in the graphic design component.

(BTW, I’m not fond of this cover— but I was instantly reminded of the 1983 remake of Breathless (Richard Gere was beyond beautiful in this) with Valérie Kaprisky, with this cover: the colors, the styling, the attitude. She probably didn’t have Breathless in mind for this but that’s what I appreciate about VP— that Emmanuelle hasn’t forsaken reference like so many other Vogue editors.)

 

[Benn98]

To sell a lifestyle and to inspire a parisian aesthetic for all our national brands (Sandro, The Kooples, Maje..etc.).
Before, VP was about a particular lifestyle (a certain idea of LA PARISIENNE) but also about style and fashion. I mean, their top main editors were working for some of the most influencial brands in the world and their assistant were working for the most important comtemporary brands in the world.

But Vogue Paris has never reflected what's happening in France, that's why it's called VOGUE PARIS. It's about the parisian scene.

Where the parisian scene goes when they are on vacation? St Barth, St Jean Cap Ferrat, Cote d'Azur, Gstaad, Biarritz... Those places are the set of VP eds.

Joan Juliet Buck's Vogue was a american vision of France. Her Vogue was much more than Paris. Her Vogue was in a way more intellectual.

This 'La Parisienne', or even some 80's reconstructed version of it, is frankly speaking a little bit passé and should be retired. It was a concept which thrived at it's peak, when the French fashion industry still had a form of global dominance and everybody wanted to buy into that. Easier and more effective to flog an ideal when you have such a tremendous audience. But the world has changed since and mainstream consumers became more educated. Educated enough to know that you don't need to buy into a 'French' brand to assert your fashion savvy. I don't think the fashion industry at large are still interested in these type of concepts. Notice how most youth-themed features are devoid of such definite constructs, and these are the future spenders. Much like the British rocker babe with her Bardot hairdo and leather jacket, standing against a brick wall, became almost a caricature for UK Vogue, so did 'La Parisienne' for VP. It lost it's exclusivity and the novelty wore off with each and every magazine's ability to rehash the theme over and over.

If VP's aim is to 'inspire a Parisian aesthetic' for France's national brands, then they should start by ditching Alt. Because I fail to see any correlation between what she's putting out, and all those brands.

 

[cul8tr]

^^^ Great points, Lola.

Even when Emmanuelle stumbles from time to time, she never falls flat on her face— and by that, I mean she never looses direction, or lacks direction and always remember that high fashion is exclusive, expensive, heightened, hyper and with attitude, and she never stoops to cater to everyone, like Anna’s braindead Vogue does (and the alarming number of magazines that follow that template to sell). I’m still inspired by Emmanuelle's image of women. I do get wary of this late-70s/80s thing she’s still on, but like Hedi and his oftentimes 80s music scene tributes, she does it so well without a hint of camp, or caricature, that I’ve grown to like it.

And I’ve grown to appreciate Emmanuelle’s confident direction of who the Parisian woman is— so I don’t long for Carine’s days. I only miss Fabien’s sharpness in the graphic design component.

Amen,
someone have said this. I think she never failed in her editorial work. The only mistake was a bad cover choice. I bought only few issues during her tanure and inside they were always great. Clean, simple with her point of view. Only covers didnt work for me. And also I think that its her best year so far.

 

[YohjiAddict]

^I third this statement. Actually Vogue Paris has a lot to offer in my opinion. It's a glossy many people love to hate in here, but at the end of the day it's always been a magazine with a taste, a vision and an overall standard of quality other Vogue editions (cough Vogue Italia cough) can only wish they had...

 

[Lola701]

^^
It has always been a magazine with taste and vision yes but personally, my issue with Vogue by E.A. has been the lack of diversity (not in terms of models).

Vogue by Carine wasn't only Carine's vision. She was the leader but she had 2 others strong individuals who helped her to make her vision work: EA & MAS. Add to that contributors like Veronique Didry (the EN Vogue spread), Claire Dhelens and sometimes international editors or top legend like Carlyne. + they had their talented assistants.

Vogue paris was a focused and yet diverse magazine. Carine didn't styled all the covers and main eds.

Under EA, it's different. She is maybe the most "high fashion" editor in her team as most of the team is really "like her".
I like the idea of Anastasia Barbieri being to Emmanuelle what Emmanuelle was to Carine.

Look at this issue: The 2 main eds are perfect but they were styled by Emmanuelle. It lack the tension of another vision...

Emmanuelle needs a real strong team that can express it vision in every issue of Vogue Paris. I hope we'll find that in the September issue.

 

[bgekk]

Cover without text


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