Christian Dior Haute Couture S/S 2013 Paris

The yellow cut-out jamboree is so good, it almost makes everything else look dated.
 
first part of the show was a bit dissapointing for me but then gowns came and i was catched in Raf´s world... love this flower inspiration and have to say almost immediately i remembered Gallianos´s garden and flower inspiration three years ago. His creations were opulent, very theatrical but sometimes too cheap a predictable - these were amazing, precise, sometimes almost like dream visions and still very wearable. My personal winner is Raf - definitely.
 
Is a beautiful collection, with beautiful dresses.
But nonetheless all he has created for Dior appears to be in the same collection.
 
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By the way, did anyone else happen to notice a bit of Theyskens' Rochas in this...? :unsure: Someone needs to alert Raf to the fact that many before him have already danced circles around what he tries to pass off as couture, in ready-to-wear alone (not to incite that never-ending 'what is couture' debate).
YES! I see hint of Theyskens' Rochas, too. I saw it in his Pre-Fall collection, and I'm seeing it again here. It's nothing particularly obvious, it's just a lot of little details and several shapes that remind me instantly of Olivier's work. Those bell shaped dresses look straight off of the Rochas Fall/Winter 2003 runway. The metallic colored stilettos are straight off the Fall/Winter 2004 runway. A few of the closing looks could have walked of the Spring/Summer and Fall/Winter 2005 catwalks. Oh, well.
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I want to like what Raf is doing at Dior so badly. There were several looks in this Pre-Fall that I really loved and felt like were steps in the right direction. There are beautiful pieces here, of course. But I just don't see much relevance in this collection. It looks dated - the hair and the make up, the strange color palette, the cheap little floral embroideries and those horrific colored tights.

Ultimately, I think the problem is that there is inherently nothing interesting anymore about a perfect, untouchable, coddled woman. A woman who lives within the realms of a an atelier and a grand salon. That lifestyle is over. Where does the Dior woman of today live? What does she do? This collection gives me no indication, in fact, I'm even beginning to wonder if she even exists.
 
I figure if LVMH wanted a sub par version of Olivier Theysken's they'd just have bought him out of his theory contract...

Besides the bad versions of old Theyskens pieces this collection is pretty sorry. Not even talking about design, the fit on these dresses are miserable. And then the actual design itself looks so tortured and amateur, I think we've seen better executed ideas from the likes of Rodarte.

This is ridiculous, Raf is out of his depth.
 
I like Raf Simons for Jil Sander but his collections are getting worse and worse since his first collection for Dior . Most dresses are hideous.
 
Breathtakingly beautiful. I kept thinking about Bjork's song "Venus as a Boy", the short hair on the models made a great contrast with the overwhelming femininity of the clothes. Actually I think this was the most feminine collection Raf ever did, you can tell this a somewhat new territory for him and he's approaching it with restraint and intelligence. I really loved the delicacy of the garden imaginarium and the nods to 50's couture, and yet he made it modern and appealing to younger and mature women. Some of the cuts were sublime, like in that yellow dress on Vanessa, it showed of great sensuality without being flashy. The soft and colourful colour pallet was also great.

Raf is, season by season, building his woman and his vision like a careful artist. And season by season this woman and vision is getting more beautiful.
 
I figure if LVMH wanted a sub par version of Olivier Theysken's they'd just have bought him out of his theory contract...

Besides the bad versions of old Theyskens pieces this collection is pretty sorry. Not even talking about design, the fit on these dresses are miserable. And then the actual design itself looks so tortured and amateur, I think we've seen better executed ideas from the likes of Rodarte.

This is ridiculous, Raf is out of his depth.

Olivier's style is much more suitable for Dior. B)
 
Christian Dior | Haute Couture Spring Summer 2013 | Full Show | Exclusive on You Tube

 
imo Dior is in best hands. B) this collection is utterly gorgeous and perfectly executed, there is not one look I'd disapprove of. so heavenly wonderful and STUNNING :heart::heart::heart:
 
I figure if LVMH wanted a sub par version of Olivier Theysken's they'd just have bought him out of his theory contract...

Besides the bad versions of old Theyskens pieces this collection is pretty sorry. Not even talking about design, the fit on these dresses are miserable. And then the actual design itself looks so tortured and amateur, I think we've seen better executed ideas from the likes of Rodarte.

This is ridiculous, Raf is out of his depth.
I'd have to agree. Olivier would have been a much better fit for this house. 1950's Couture does not suit Raf, truthfully. His last several collections at Jil Sander certainly toyed with that look, and more successfully there than here, but even then, it felt out of character.

Olivier is the master of taking all the tropes of 1950's Couture and, without losing the integrity of the original shapes and silhouettes, rendering them with such lightness and delicacy that the end result often times ended up looking more contemporary than a pair of jeans and a t-shirt (and since his tenure at Theory, Olivier has certainly proved that he's capable of making a mean pair of jeans, too)!

A missed opportunity, in my opinion.
 
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The trapeze dress was first introduced by YSL himself while working at Dior, so RS does have the archives to back his version, and with the sharply angled shape, he interpreted it in a new way which was different from Theyskens', imho. This collection reminds me so much of YSL for Dior.

http://www.interviewmagazine.com/fashion/hamish-bowles/

http://forums.thefashionspot.com/f116/1958-1960-christian-dior-yves-saint-laurent-53752-2.html

http://img134.imagevenue.com/img.php?image=67805_dior1small_122_369lo.jpg
 
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^ I also notice the Theysken's similarity and given that my historic knowledge reference isn't that good, I'm glad you point that out...
 
imo the pictures do no justice because this is so beautiful in motion, although I am wishing his casting would one day be a lot more livelier. So many bland girls trying to carry off a beautiful piece :(.
 

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