Christian Dior Haute Couture S/S 2013 Paris

It's nice safe couture and I can't wait to see the details. I think it's time to understand that Raf and John are focused on very different ideas, but both are excellent and dedicated at translating these ideas to the runway.
 
I loved Raf Simons at Jil Sander, and loved his latest men;s collection but OMG this is soooo BORING. Who will pay thousands of dollars for boring gowns when there are much better choices for those price points. Marc Jacobs did a 50s inspired LV show few seasons back and it was so lively.
 
I'm seeing some very beautiful and magical pieces here. :heart: Except I could 100% do without the makeup and hair... oh my...

although I am wishing his casting would one day be a lot more livelier. So many bland girls trying to carry off a beautiful piece
I agree with this so much.
 
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It's has Raf Simons' signature all over it, not necessarily the House of Dior.

Anyway can someone bother explaining to me the stockings? I absolutely don't get wearing a pair of black stockings under a lavender dress.

But the shapes of the skirts this season is interesting, just that I don't think they will be flattering on a rich woman from the Middle East with a huge bum.
 
The trapeze dress was first introduced by YSL himself while working at Dior, so RS does have the archives to back his version, and with the sharply angled shape, he interpreted it in a new way which was different from Theyskens', imho. This collection reminds me so much of YSL for Dior.

http://www.interviewmagazine.com/fashion/hamish-bowles/

http://forums.thefashionspot.com/f116/1958-1960-christian-dior-yves-saint-laurent-53752-2.html

http://img134.imagevenue.com/img.php?image=67805_dior1small_122_369lo.jpg

Bingo. I thought too that it was an Oliver thing but how quickly everyone forgets Raf can pull it straight from the source via the archives.

As for the collection, It's hard to understand the point of those lumpy, bunchy opening pieces. I feel like it's his way of taking us out of the box so that we can look at the rest of the collection in a new light, but still it just feels like wasted opportunity considering the stage he's on - but maybe he's doing it because he can.

As practically everyone said, there are some great pieces here and it got better as the show wore on. In retrospect I really enjoyed the first HC collection, but I'm much more lukewarm about this one.

One positive note, and what may be the whole point, is that I couldn't help but thinking of how actual women would look in the clothes.
 
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A few misses, so many hits. I really like Raf's version of Dior :heart:
 
Wonderful details, fabrics, technics BUT sorry, I don't like the silhouettes.

There is nothing fresh...I have seen and reseen those lines before. And what the hell is this styling ? The SS13 PRADA hair does not work well here. Daiane Conterato looks ridiculous with this outfit ...

Raf Simons should care less about the Dior dna and focus on what he is good at : create marvellous technical clothes inspired by art, music and cultural movements...
 
Apart from several smash gowns ,this collection is incredibly flat, imo.
 
I didn't watch the livestream, but based on the pictures on Twitter (Cathy Horyn, Alexandra Shulman & Vogue fr) it looked like an amazing show. Like most people are saying, I won't judge until I see them up close. Sometimes Raf's clothes look boring on the surface but are exquisite in detail and shape. He doesn't exactly give the visual assault that Galliano offered.

I agree and may I add I like it. It's not Galliano's Dior, but it's Raf's Dior.
What did you expect? This are two different designers and to say that this is bad is unjustified.
 
this is the first collection from raf's dior that i can say i truly LOVE
the detailing is amazing (i could without some of the flowers appliques here and there), the shapes are not all down my alley but it's surely interesting and beautiful, some of the dresses are just heavenly, interesting cuts that feel high fashion and fresh and modern... i overall love this. i do feel like a few looks are a bit dated, but they're irrelevant in the overall picture. the yellow gown and this pink dress http://images.vogue.it/imgs/sfilate...-2013/christian-dior/collezione/HQ/00200h.jpg are my favourite looks here. Bravo Raf!
 
There is nothing fresh...I have seen and reseen those lines before. And what the hell is this styling ? The SS13 PRADA hair does not work well here. Daiane Conterato looks ridiculous with this outfit ...

Raf Simons should care less about the Dior dna and focus on what he is good at : create marvellous technical clothes inspired by art, music and cultural movements...

Exactly what I think about this collection. We all understand the DNA of the new Dior. Now Simons should create something different from what he already created.
 
He can be really wrong on some looks but when he does right he really delivers. Those last gowns are enough to save the collection for me, they were simply stunning. I loved his first Couture show from the setting to the clothes everything was perfect. This one however started really off track. Even though I'm more than pleased to see that he's establishing a whole new vocabulary for the house, some of the first looks should have been edited.Yet when the first embroideries appeared I was captivated and not only by the precisions and refinement of the detailing but also by his take on romanticism and strength. It's his 3rd collection now and I feel like his Dior woman is this very intruiguing bi-lateral creature. There's this duality in her which reflects a bit the situation. In the sense that people will never forget the DNA and history of Dior and everything it means in terms femininy and elegance, but Raf can't get rid of his own aesthetic of this minimalism and sharpness which is feminine but much more streamlined and almost provocative in it's rawness. Therefore the looks are very delicate and precious with the flowers, the flowy dresses, the pastels, the headpieces but one look will also be very strong and "toughened up" with the pixie cut, the limited make-up, the very structured lines, the pants, the coats and jackets , the slits like on the incredible yellow gown that prevent it from being too properly glamourous but makes it much more interesting and almost sexy actually.

I also love how he worked on the sihouette. It's one of my favourite thing about collections, to see how a designers can off new takes on the woman's silhouettes without making it unflattering or clownish. Here it was almost like a parade of very elegant ostrich with the elongated necks and torso and the puffy bottoms accentuated by the short hair. I also love the focus on the waist area and the use of pants is always regal. His vision of the woman's body is so fascinating.
Last but not least the work of the atelier should be once again recognised because the dresses at the end are spectacular.
 
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Exactly what I think about this collection. We all understand the DNA of the new Dior. Now Simons should create something different from what he already created.

But then I can already see people whining about "oh this is not Dior this is Raf Simons, where is the beautiful heritage of the house, he's disrespecting the Christian Dior, is this supposed to be Dior" blah blah blah... :rolleyes:
 
Anyone with access to review by Cathy Horyn and Suzy Menkes can you share please?
 
I for one have no problem with the collections being a continuation of the previous one, because they are all chic and pretty in my eyes. This is my favourite so far though, I absolutely love the colours and shapes.
My favourite look remains the most simple one: black cigarette pants with black Bar jacket. :heart:
 
Anyone with access to review by Cathy Horyn and Suzy Menkes can you share please?

Mr. Simons Plants His Garden
By CATHY HORYN

Six months ago, Raf Simons presented his first haute couture collection for Dior; he then followed with a hit ready-to-wear show that instantly restored prestige to the house’s tailoring. If people didn’t believe that Mr. Simons, a maverick in men’s wear and a relative newcomer in women’s, could take control of Dior, they certainly were convinced after those shows.

On Monday, in a recreated garden in the Tuileries, Mr. Simons surprised them yet again. It was an astonishing show, full of lightness, hidden layers of embroidery and dazzling color combinations. Beforehand, he admitted that some of the spring-hued colors — grass green, poppy, lilac, periwinkle — were new to him as well.

At the start of the show, the models emerged from a dressing room underneath the white set and began walking along paths arranged with dense boxwood mounded around skeletal trees. The Belgian gardening firm Jacques Wirtz supplied the plants and design. The opening looks recalled Mr. Simons’s earlier collections: the airy full skirts, now in a fuzzy pale-blue silk stripe with a strapless black bustier. He wanted to evoke not just the complete experience of a garden (blue sky, black branches) but also the sense of things emerging from the earth and eventually blossoming.

This organic approach meant deceptively simple shapes at the beginning of the show. Among these were gorgeously plain dresses in, say, dark green silk or pale pink with a swag at one side. Sometimes there was an abstract splash of embroidery at the midriff or a glaze of beadwork along the edge of a bustier or dress. One coat had flowers embroidered on the inside.

Everywhere you looked there was something for the eye.

Mr. Simons has made the tuxedo a fixture at Dior, but this time the slim trousers had delicate folds pressed flat near the hips. The plainest navy silk gown went past; in the back, the draping left a sensual peak of bare skin. Another dress, made from several layers of pale pink organza — almost a cosmetic pink — was embroidered with a swirl of wide black satin ribbons.

Layering was almost a story in itself — and done with a lightness and a precision available only in a couture atelier.

A number of dresses were composed of two or three layers of gazar or tulle, with embroidery designed to create a three-dimensional effect. Some embroideries were delicate stems scattered across a vividly colored ground, while a few came in a mid-summer riot of poppy, green, orange, and gold.

Mr. Simons moved confidently away from the codes of Dior, not abandoning them, but feeling free enough to interpret designs like the Bar jacket in more abstract and, ultimately, inventive ways. The Bar jacket, with its crisp peplum, served as the basis for bustiers with trousers, and for his key new addition at Dior: a daytime suit in three pieces.

He called it a “totem pole,” in part because the pieces appear in a stack of colors and minimalist shapes. For one look, a sleeveless jacket in pale blue double gazar appeared over a stiffened black silk top with a peplum. The neckline of the jacket was cut open and the garment actually had an under layer that was embroidered at the shoulders in tiny yellow flowers — they’re barely visible in photos. The slim skirt was grass-green moiré silk with a black silk underskirt showing at the hem.

It’s a completely different way of doing a suit — a simple design with a big impact.

Mr. Simons closed the Dior show with five wedding dresses, in white or very pale shades of pink. One came with a white silk jacket tossed over the shoulders of the model.

“Unbelievable,” Bernard Arnault, the chairman of LVMH and Mr. Simons’s boss, said backstage. “He’s so gifted.”

In the audience were Charlene of Monaco, the actresses Rosamund Pike and Marisa Berenson, the designer Azzedine Alaïa, and Pierre Bergé, the partner of Yves Saint Laurent.

At Dior, Garden of Earthly Delights
By SUZY MENKES

PARIS — Flowers budding, blossoming, dabbing their sweet spring colors against the greenery, the Christian Dior show on Monday was a garden of earthly delights.

The designer Raf Simons stayed rooted in reality — his models with cropped, wash-’n’-go hair and tailored clothes — but he embraced Christian Dior’s love of flowers and gardens and took the collection from tight bud to beautiful blooms.

The result of this haute couture summer 2013 collection was never the soaring, sensual bursting of fecundity that it might have been, because Mr. Simons is not that kind of designer. Instead, he used the sense and sensibility of his family memories of a Belgian garden, melded it with Mr. Dior’s horticultural pride and joy at Granville in Normandy, and made a fine collection.

“It’s very much about the garden and nature in general, the book Mr. Dior wrote about himself and how I see his persona,” said Mr. Simons, who found himself backstage fending off kisses from the models, their mouths sparkling with crystallized lipstick.

“I loved the garden, I loved the colors. It was so beautiful,” said Princess Charlene of Monaco, one of a lineup of notables sitting front row, which included Valérie Trierweiler, the partner of the French president, François Hollande.

What made this collection something to admire and to savor, but not really to love with that joyous freedom of emotion that is a real rite of spring? When full skirts, with layers of embroidery on transparent bell-shaped forms, followed skinny pants with tiny flowers clinging to the brief tops, the stage set was filled with life, as well as with enough green bushes and trees to mirror the royal wedding of Kate and William.

Yet only once, when a tailored white coat was worn over a shapely long dress seeded with orange blossoms, did the designer seem to have grown the perfect hybrid of his vision and Dior’s.

But there was still much to like in the sweet restraint: especially the colors that were vivid and botanical, once the rain-washed blue sky of early spring morphed into daffodil yellow, marigold, lily-of-the-valley white and green, bright mimosa and hot poppy. Linked to slim-line pants and layered tops in silks and satin, they created a genuine spring-to-summer wardrobe.

It was hard not to think back to a manic collection of sexualized, Georgia O’Keeffe-style blooms that John Galliano created for Dior during his tenure. But the fashion world is now in a different era. And in Mr. Simons the couture house has found someone to take a measure of the current situation: a need to give the fabulous skills of the ateliers a workout, the clients’ desire to have clothes as wearable as they are beautiful — in other words, cutting back and tidying up couture’s wilder growth.

And, as every horticulturist knows, pruning back is the first task of a good gardener — so that from small buds, glorious things can grow.

nytimes
 

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