Ok, so 99% I will be in London in September. I am compiling a list of shops and I hope you guys can add, modify, delete. My interests are basically high-end, avant-garde, cutting edge (blah-blah, etc.) fashion (menswear), especially Belgian. I like stuff such as Ann Demeulemeester, Carol Christian Poell, Carpe Diem, Raf Simons, Margiela, Dries van Noten, Junya Watanabe, etc... I am not really interested in streetwear. Jewelry-wise, I would only like to check out Shaun Leane.
Also, I would like to know how you would rate department stores - ideally I wouldn't want to hit them all (cause there are other things to do in London), and I know even though some stores seem to carry good designers, they have no taste. For example in New York Barneys is far better than either Saks or Bergdorf Goodman.
So far this is my list in order of priority.
1. Dover St. Market
2. The Library
3. Martin Margiela boutique
4. Jas MB
5. Browns
6. Harvey Nick's
7. Selfridges
8. Liberty
I might suggest maybe not checking out Selfridges.... It's probably just personal opinion, but I find it horrendous, impossible to shop in, far FAR too large, poorly edited, and too bright. They do have some alright stuff in right now, beautiful Raf Simons and Jil Sander, some alright Balenciaga and Marni, and lots of Dior, but I just don't understand how anyone shops in an environment like that. The building's like, the length of two football fields and what? Six floors? The music's too sh*tty to be that loud, the only place you will find any assistance is in the Superbrands section, and in general, it's just too much. However, since they are so freaking huge, they do tend to order a larger size range from designers (like, more of each size) which I think could be advantageous as some Fall collections have already been out in shops for two months already. I don't know if Mrs. Faust will be joining you, but the ladieswear is acceptable, only because they carry every single designer ever on the face of the planet.
Harvey Nichols has a nice menswear selection, though when I visited last, half the floor was Galliano (which I'm
sure is right up your alley) and McQueen. They also do Margiela, Kris Van Assche, Dries Van Noten and such. The sales staff I've encountered are worthless. It is quieter that Selfridges, but I've never been there on the week-end sooo.....
The Library is really great, and very low-key and pleasant. I've only been once, but I would def recommend it.
DOORS by Jas MB is enjoyable as well, though it's tiny. It's well edited and they'll custom make a bag for you, should you wish.
Browns is alright, they do carry a lot of great designers, but because they carry so many for such a small space, they tend to order fewer pieces from a collection. It's very much about Browns and how they buy and merchandize than it is about the individual designers, which is fine, they do buy well, but it can be frustrating. The staff I've dealt with in menswear were all very, very nice and knowledgeable, and it's small and chill.
Obviously, you
have to go to Dover Street. Like, amazing. I don't need to tell you anything about it. BUT, we had our Demeulemeester representative in two weeks ago for training and she told us that the Ann ladieswear at Dover is almost completely and totally sold out, and the menswear is headed down the same road. It's barely September! And it wasn't even September when she told us! Maybe make it your first stop.
Pineal Eye is worth checking out as they do carry a lot of great designers and they have a tendancy to buy the crazier, "Fashion" pieces from them. If you want a Raf cape, stop by.
Since I work at Liberty in the menswear department I'll try to be as objective as possible. It's nice, the collections room is small, and we're smaller than most other department stores, and we have a different focus. Our menswear buying is slightly conservative, but since we are dealing with primarily Japanese (Issey Miyake, Junya Watanabe, Comme des Garcon SHIRT, Number (N)ine) and Belgian (Ann Demeulemeester, Martin Margiela, Dries Van Noten, Kris Van Assche) designers, "conservative" isn't really all that staid. I'm particularly pleased with our Miyake right now, even though his stuff is basically exactly the same every season, I think it was purchased particularly well, and if you like Dries then (this is factually totally objective) we do have the absolute best selection of it in the city, bar none. And it's really such a beautiful building and it's so charming and you really must visit just to see it. I won't comment on the sales staff.