Cathy Horyn http://runway.blogs.nytimes.com/
The first thing the guys at A.P. said when I stopped by after the Prada show tonight to choose pictures was, “Waders?” They almost sounded as if their masculine turf had been invaded.
But, if Miuccia Prada is doing fishing waders in her show, you know she’s not just doing any old waders. And this is not just any collection. I loved the equal treatment, the equal value, she gave to the boots and to posh fur, or to glossy velvet and practical country tweeds. A v-neck shift in red-tinted fur looked as plain and everyday as a pair of leather waders seemed now prized and chic. What made this collection work so well—energetically, brilliantly—is that Prada applied the thinking across the board. Everything was consistent, and yet there were some singular pieces, notably the shapely suits in tobacco brown and burnt red tweed with paneled skirts that overlapped at the sides (allowing for flashes of leg) and simple, rustic shifts that combined tweed with a bodice in velvet or fur. One of the great looks was a sleeveless, molded charcoal wool dress embroidered randomly with black sequined flowers.
I liked the elemental, broken-down sense of luxury, and the world-wise view. Backstage, Prada said, “Glamour, glamour, city-girl glamour. That’s not about feeling alive.”
By the way, while some of the green waders might look like rubber, they are all made of leather. As for shoes, the newest styles are in velvet with a stacked heel and treaded sole, or a studded Mary Jane with a heel and a flush of fringe at the ankles—Mary Janes with a Mohawk.
Cathy Horyn, On the Runway Blog
The first thing the guys at A.P. said when I stopped by after the Prada show tonight to choose pictures was, “Waders?” They almost sounded as if their masculine turf had been invaded.
But, if Miuccia Prada is doing fishing waders in her show, you know she’s not just doing any old waders. And this is not just any collection. I loved the equal treatment, the equal value, she gave to the boots and to posh fur, or to glossy velvet and practical country tweeds. A v-neck shift in red-tinted fur looked as plain and everyday as a pair of leather waders seemed now prized and chic. What made this collection work so well—energetically, brilliantly—is that Prada applied the thinking across the board. Everything was consistent, and yet there were some singular pieces, notably the shapely suits in tobacco brown and burnt red tweed with paneled skirts that overlapped at the sides (allowing for flashes of leg) and simple, rustic shifts that combined tweed with a bodice in velvet or fur. One of the great looks was a sleeveless, molded charcoal wool dress embroidered randomly with black sequined flowers.
I liked the elemental, broken-down sense of luxury, and the world-wise view. Backstage, Prada said, “Glamour, glamour, city-girl glamour. That’s not about feeling alive.”
By the way, while some of the green waders might look like rubber, they are all made of leather. As for shoes, the newest styles are in velvet with a stacked heel and treaded sole, or a studded Mary Jane with a heel and a flush of fringe at the ankles—Mary Janes with a Mohawk.
Cathy Horyn, On the Runway Blog
Catwalking is SO slow 
