Watch & Comment Live... The 2024 Met Gala
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can you preach to the life of the mind, the advantages of 'insanity', the danger and vulgarity of men dipping their toes into something considered feminine ("give not thy strength unto women, nor thy ways to that which destroyeth kings")? if her blueprint is saint laurent, then she highlights how far we still have to go: a woman in trousers was the cat's meow. this boy, this man is a modern day dionysius going through the trials and tribulations of playing as hard as he works, in an age where men's roles are being redefined, redistributed. cut off. an endangered species.
Miuccia Prada is one complex rubric. While a lot of the designers showing in Milan have played it safe, Prada went for it on Sunday night presenting a recondite collection that had editors doing a lot of head-scratching. Despite the casserole of conceits that Miuccia cooked up, the emphasis here was clearly on frontality with nary a button on shirts or jackets, or on super-flat-front trousers with low-hung crotches (lower even than Burberry last season). Instead, shirts either buttoned up at the back or were fastened with elasticized strips that recalled banker sleeve armbands (and, some would say, Helmut Lang). The designer also subverted elements of formal dressing, including her take on the cummerbund that was cut to resemble a jock strap and tucked inside trousers — a masculine black-tie version of the reverse Lohan, if you will. And in case that was still too safe for aggressively modern lovers of Fashion with a capital “F,” Prada threw in dickeys, detachable shirt collars and cuffs, and ra-ra microskirts worn over trousers for good measure. It’s a complicated way of dressing that is certainly not for everyone — it helps if you have a valet to lend a hand with all the layers — but then again abstruse ideas are rarely aimed at the average Joe.