Paris:With vestal white dresses on the runway and a phalanx of his iconic red dresses projected on the sides of a giant tent, Valentino bowed out of fashion on Wednesday with an ovation of bravos but few tears, as the designer himself set the happy tone by waving to the audience as he took his bow.
But like a chorus in a Greek tragedy, Valentino's friends and clients, who gathered at the Rodin Museum for the couturier's last and final curtain, started their comments with a single phrase: "It's the end of an era," they all said.
"I was 17 years old when I met Valentino in Rome — and, of course, I feel sad," said Marisa Berenson, while the model Eva Herzigova, resplendent in a jewel-embroidered Valentino jacket, remembered the very first dress, in Valentino red, in which she walked the runway.
"It's a special time," said Marie-Chantal of Greece, one of many clients who expressed mixed emotions. Farah Diba, the former empress of Iran, said she was happy Valentino was retiring "at the summit of his glory and his talent." Susan Gutfreund said that she felt "excited and nostalgic."
Comparing this departure from the couture stage with that of Yves Saint Laurent in 2000, Betty Catroux, the YSL muse, said: "It's different. Yves didn't want to retire. But I think Valentino is happy."
Before the show, the designer himself stated his mission: gorgeous and gracious dresses, culminating in the white gowns that referred back to the famous white show in Florence of 1968 that made his reputation.
"All I ever wanted was beauty — to make women beautiful," Valentino, 75, said.
And he said it with flowers: big fat summer roses worn with a garden party of a hat; elegant irises traced on the back of a sheath; clusters of hand- painted wisteria; embroidered flowers that peeped out from pleats; graphic black and white flowers; and the sweet- pea pastels that opened the show.
As the first model walked the shiny herringbone runway, her pink tunic over an embroidered skirt was quintessentially Valentino in its feminine elegance. So were the tailored coats in summer shades of blue, peach and pistachio. Giancarlo Giammetti, Valentino's partner for 45 years, sitting between the actresses Uma Thurman and Lucy Liu, sized up the calm daywear, the perfectly groomed models, with elbow-length gloves, crocodile clutch in hand and hair swept into a smooth chignon — even if the flipped- up eyeliner could have been described as Amy Winehouse on a very good day.
Designers front row included Alber Elbaz of Lanvin, Miuccia Prada and Allessandra Facchinetti, who is taking over from Valentino next season.
Looking at the incredibly fine workmanship of Valentino's Rome studio, it was hard to believe that any other designer could still produce such craftsmanship and elegance in the 21st century — especially the evening dresses that appeared so simple but were, in fact, made with the skill of half a century of training.
Perhaps Valentino's greatest attribute is to appear timeless, offering the harmony and grace so rare in the cacophony of modern fashion and making this final collection a loving ode to women.
Philip Treacy, whose garden party hats were on the beautifully coiffed heads, summed up the emotional event.
"It's sad," he said. "Valentino is the king of chic. His fascination is always with elegance and beauty."