Who Will Succeed John Galliano At Dior? #2 *Update Raf Simons Offically Hired*

[agee]

that sounds more like hedi slimane than riccardo tisci. hedi slimane, after all, has the passion for menswear where tisci sort of fell into it after ozwald boateng got booted from givenchy.

It does not matter how he fell into it, Tisci is doing menswear and has made a name for himself in menswear. Also, Tisci is a brand and Slimane is not, so I don't see LVMH or other money bags immediately forking over that much to someone who is not actively involved in all aspects of fashion / luxury or an A-list name like Tom Ford. Although I don't think that they had to try hard to get Tisci since he wanted the gig and was not playing hard to get, I would not be surprised if LVMH was the one who fretted over keeping Tisci in menswear.

LVMH should go ahead and make the announcement already (or make it after the presentations of the cruise or couture collections), to tie it to anything associated with Galliano (if indeed that report is true) is goofy.

 

[Dkammern]

^^ Tisci is a brand and Slimane is not!?

If I would have to pick one word to define Slimane, the word would actually be brand.
Can't think of someone with a more precise aesthetic than him. He defined the look and lifestyle of a decade in menswear. He IS by all means a brand from his tight suits to his indie music, the black&white pictures and the Helvetica-everythings. When Hedi "created" Dior Homme, the aesthetic was 100% him. There was barely no precedent (licenced Dior Monsieur anyone?), and his work at Saint Laurent had different sensibility.

The same can't be said about Tisci. His references differ from one season to the next. So does his way of presenting his collections. There is of course a common thread, and that's what drives his work, but when I see a dress that reminds me of his work, I would rather call it Givenchy-esque and not Tisci-esque, if you see what I mean. There's not even a positive correlation between his for for mens and womenswear (and that's not necessarily bad, but to me it just shows how much of a mercenary as opposed to a brand he is).


BTW: ignore my reply to Kknardi a couple of posts ago! that clearly belonged to another thread

 

[agee]

^ I consider what you enumerated about Slimane as being multi-dimensional, multi-talented or being a Renaissance man but not being a brand, being a brand is not always talent or accomlishment based rather it is about connecting with the public or a select target: Jessica Simpson and the Olsens are brands. Who knows, that blind item can be about Slimane, he is worthy in the abstract sense but I don't see the money people giving that much on the scale that is being implied to someone who is not currently a player in fashion and luxury goods. I don't think that the BI is about Tom Ford (he already has his own eponymous menswear line), but he is the only one who is not currently a serious player in womenswear that I can see being handed something that big.


ETA:

The same can't be said about Tisci. His references differ from one season to the next. So does his way of presenting his collections. There is of course a common thread, and that's what drives his work, but when I see a dress that reminds me of his work, I would rather call it Givenchy-esque and not Tisci-esque, if you see what I mean. There's not even a positive correlation between his for for mens and womenswear (and that's not necessarily bad, but to me it just shows how much of a mercenary as opposed to a brand he is).

If the BI is indeed about Tisci taking over Dior, everything you just laid out here makes him more suitable for Dior and not less, and the lack of correlation between menswear and womenswear is irrelevant because they will be different labels.

 

[TianSoFine]

I can't imagine Tisci doing well aesthetically at Dior. I'm getting the feeling that it's going to be a disappointment, but I suppose we can't judge until we see it.

 

[AutomneRoi20]

I agree. My concern about Tisci is that his couture is great on the runways, when models wear it, but when more "average" women, like celebs, wear it, it just doesn't work ! Galliano was able to make every women look fantastic in his couture, that was his strengh and the key of his success. I'm not sure tisci has that. We'll see...

 

[TheChosen1]

I can't think of any other designer so opposite of Dior's aesthetics than Mr. Tisci. Although both houses have immense love for the arts as we see in their Couture Creations, Galliano is more of the romantic, lady-like designs while Tisci is on the dark, Gothic side. Both are very creative, imaginative designers but they work aesthetic is polar opposites of each other.

Nevertheless, I'm excited to see what will Riccardo bring new to Dior.

 

[mistress_f]

^ but if you consider especially john's entire body of work he has done incredibly dark, gothic, almost morbid collections and at the same time riccardo is capable of making the most delicate, dreamy and romantic gowns... so in this way i think they're somehow similiar (not in style, just in an overall 'approach' to fashion)
It will be a huge change for dior, and im going to miss john immensely but im soo looking forward to what riccardo will bring to the table

 

[TheChosen1]

^Oh, but I based my opinion on what I saw as of late.

 

[CrisGalaxy]

Why can't Tisci do both Givenchy and Dior, heh... I know its alot of work but look at Lagerfeld.

And Riccardo doing his own meswear??? Im kinda excited about this one but wasn't Givenchy Homme pretty much his own menswear already?

hmm...

 

[TheChosen1]

^my thoughts, too..

 

[agee]

At the moment, I don't think that Karl Lagerfeld, and probably Marc Jacobs for Louis Vuitton, actively designs, they are more front men to the outside and direction setters to the inside, not that I think that everything that goes down the Givenchy runway was conceived by Tisci, but I think that Tisci and his spin on the archive is the creative force behind much of what Givenchy produces.

ETA:
Of course Tisci can become more of a figurehead than designer, and it is not as if he does not like hanging out with celebs and being seen, but I think that he is still of some use as a designer, even moreso at Dior because he has a broader and somewhat different market and archives to play with, and if he is heading up both Dior and Givenchy, that reduces his ability to put his "stink" on the House of Dior.

 

[Dkammern]

^ I consider what you enumerated about Slimane as being multi-dimensional, multi-talented or being a Renaissance man but not being a brand, being a brand is not always talent or accomlishment based rather it is about connecting with the public or a select target: Jessica Simpson and the Olsens are brands. Who knows, that blind item can be about Slimane, he is worthy in the abstract sense but I don't see the money people giving that much on the scale that is being implied to someone who is not currently a player in fashion and luxury goods. I don't think that the BI is about Tom Ford (he already has his own eponymous menswear line), but he is the only one who is not currently a serious player in womenswear that I can see being handed something that big.

The same can't be said about Tisci. His references differ from one season to the next. So does his way of presenting his collections. There is of course a common thread, and that's what drives his work, but when I see a dress that reminds me of his work, I would rather call it Givenchy-esque and not Tisci-esque, if you see what I mean. There's not even a positive correlation between his for for mens and womenswear (and that's not necessarily bad, but to me it just shows how much of a mercenary as opposed to a brand he is).

If the BI is indeed about Tisci taking over Dior, everything you just laid out here makes him more suitable for Dior and not less, and the lack of correlation between menswear and womenswear is irrelevant because they will be different labels.

I absolutely agree with you! I do realize my previous post doesnt sound that way, but my point was just that Slimane is imo more of a brand than Tisci. I wasnt saying Tisci isn't good for Dior (which I think he could be. Just as good as he is at Givenchy ).

I like that you call Slimane a renaissance man (i am unapologetically slimaniac. hear hear mikeijames) and I do see what you say about the differences between the Olsen and Slimane brand, but to me they differ only in their demographic outreach. Perhaps one of the biggest mistakes during his tenure at Dior was the expectation that his 'brand' would generate a lot more cash than it eventually did. As you say, it's not enough that people like you, they also have to buy your stuff.

 

[mikeijames]

for the record, hedi slimane left the house of dior in 2007. almost four full years ago! eight fashion seasons ago! and if you go to the threads for each dior homme show, you will find many people still longing for his aesthetic. further, his aesthetic remains so potent that it sells books, it fills editorials, and remains sought after in fashion circles to this day. this is WITHOUT the backing of a major house. hedi slimane remains a fashion leader on the order of tom ford where even without a house, they have a recognizable and marketable brand, aesthetic, point-of-view, celebrity, marquee status, etc.

i'm not putting down tisci in any way, shape, or form (in many ways i believe he'd pick up on the narrative that galliano got started with his spring 2006 couture show), but if the rumor surrounds menswear specifically, i'd say that that doesn't give a special nod to tisci over the other reported names in the running.

style.com

 

[AutomneRoi20]

Isn't it weird that no one has been named officially yet. I mean, i think there is a fashion week in june no (men and couture) ?

 

[KKnardi]

^don't think there will be a dior couture show this season...

 

[AutomneRoi20]

^don't think there will be a dior couture show this season...

So sad I love couture so much !

 

[KKnardi]

^yes, me too! but dior couture wasn't that good the last couple of years...

 

[mackos]

If I remember correctly, there will be a couture show (or presentation at least) put by Bernard Arnault and the atelier workers.

 

[Miss Galliano]

WTF.. Dior couture is the best, i can't believe this. John must come back...so people ar eso evil to show this video in his weak moments we are humans ,we do make mistake even we are drunk ..come on dior... he is not responsable for what hitler did.. hypo folks ..dior will never be the same

 

[Squizree]

If I remember correctly, there will be a couture show (or presentation at least) put by Bernard Arnault and the atelier workers.

Yes, earlier news said that the Atelier would prepare a Haute Couture collection, with Arnault appearing at the end I think.