Who Will Succeed John Galliano At Dior? #2 *Update Raf Simons Offically Hired*

[mackos]

How ironic it'd be that Arnault, who brought Dior to such shameful level, would be taking a bow in the end now.

 

[AutomneRoi20]

Another Dior show without an official designer ! It seems Dior goes a little bit off the rails these days, or they are launching a new concept ! I hope it's not a sign, they are considering getting rid of the couture. It's not so easy to replace John Galliano, he was a great designer and had an incredible sense of the show. I agree, he had a bit lost his hand in the recent years, but he has given Dior so many great moments.

 

[AutomneRoi20]

Ous-ps, the pics are from Corbis !

 

[tarsha]

Riccardo Tisci On Whether He’s Replacing Galliano At Dior

Despite the fact that Dior has repeatedly stated they won’t be announcing John Galliano’s replacement until the fall, the Riccardo Tisci rumor drum beats on — which is why New York Magazine had no choice but to ask him about it during their 54 minute long interview in this week’s issue.
But while Tisci may not have actively said all that much, the way he answered almost says it all. Check out their exchange:


And how about all the rumors? Ever since John Galliano’s episode at La Perle in Paris, Tisci has been at the top of every gossip’s list of potential replacements at the House of Dior.

Well?

“Can I answer that?” Tisci asks a publicist.

The publicist shakes his head: He cannot.

But he is quick to sing the praises of LVMH. “Mr. Arnault is such a smart man,” he says.

If it’s possible to not read too much into a transcript of a coy response, we’re pretty sure this means Tisci’s the man. That said, we’d probably think that even if he’d answered no (a la Sarah Burton and The Dress To End All Dresses) because at this point his selection seems like a done deal. The only competitor (in our minds) is Sarah Burton and we find it hard to believe she’d leave McQueen so quickly after taking the reins.

Full Interview

styleite.com

 

[mikeijames]

styleite.com

VERY interesting. i'm still holding out hope that it's someone else.....like slimane.

 

[The_Ida]

What about Givenchy then? He can't do both.

 

[Dkammern]

^^ People say Haider Ackermann will replace him at Givenchy. I quite like the idea!

 

[models_vlada]

i'm saying, i'm saying and won't get tired of it, i want to see what Olivier T. would do in Dior, his time in Nina Ricci has been one of best for me. Although his name doesn't sound anymore
I don't like the idea of tisci being at dior.

 

[mikeijames]

hmmm.....one wonders if lvmh would give hedi slimane his own house as incentive to design for dior or another house in their portfolio.

Comeback King
ELLA ALEXANDER 09 June 2011 0 Comments

HEDI SLIMANE has confirmed he will return to fashion design, having given up his role as creative director of Dior Homme in 2007. He has since become a photographer, taking pictures of Kate Moss, Lindsey Wixson and Courtney Love.

"Yes, of course I am [planning a return], but I'm really down to earth with fashion, and I have a business and brand-oriented mind," he said. "I know what it takes to make a brand strong in the long term in a global economy. Besides design and communication, I need to make sure I have the right tools to make a new design project successful in the long run."
When his comeback does happen, don't expect any high street/Slimane collaborations - the designer asserts any such lines are out of the question.

"[I would] never," he explained. "I could do my own jeans line, for instance, because I have legitimacy in launching the skinny jeans in fashion, and jeans for me feel like a real noble item in fashion, a social territory almost. On the other hand, I don't like the collusion between high fashion design and high street. You have to know where you stand. I belong to luxury fashion. That's what I've always felt and embraced. I like the best quality, the best fabrics and the most creative field in fashion. I will stay consistent. I belong to this world."
Although Slimane himself has become one of fashion's most influential names, he is still inspired by the work of his fashion predecessors.

"I have some designers I love, some I'm friends with," he told Prestige. "I was close to Yves Saint Laurent, since I worked for him years ago. Yves Saint Laurent simply touched me. I'm really fond of Azzedine Alaïa, who is a true couturier in a modern definition, but also within the beautiful Parisian definition. Azzedine is a really key relevant designer in the evolution of fashion since the Eighties."

(souce: vogue.co.uk)

 

[mistress_f]

i'm so confused by that article though, im SURE it's old. especially the part about not doing an high street collaboration / launching a jeans line, i've read it before, why would they publish that again now?

 

[Dkammern]

I think he is waiting for PPR to get rid at some point of Pilati.
His references to YSL are constant. Not just because he worked there, but also in interviews like the time he said he was sad to see the store at St Sulpice (in Paris' rive gauche) disappear.
Plus, I think Saint Laurent fits his aesthetic. Specially the tuxedo+cigarette in hand imagery. His Indie rock&roll vision is just the evolution of Yves transgressions in the era of going against "bourgeoisie" 30 years before.

 

[Ives927]

The interview is new and is from Prestige Hong Kong.

I'm happy to hear he is starting to plan his return to fashion. His influence at Dior was revolutionary for menswear and I have no doubt he will lead the pack once more. I hope he will start his own label rather than taking helm at a luxury house, so he can continue to develop his own personal aesthetic.

 

[angel222]

One person to benefit out of this new appointment is Lea T. she can then catwalk for Dior.

 

[TianSoFine]

I think he is waiting for PPR to get rid at some point of Pilati.
His references to YSL are constant. Not just because he worked there, but also in interviews like the time he said he was sad to see the store at St Sulpice (in Paris' rive gauche) disappear.
Plus, I think Saint Laurent fits his aesthetic. Specially the tuxedo+cigarette in hand imagery. His Indie rock&roll vision is just the evolution of Yves transgressions in the era of going against "bourgeoisie" 30 years before.

LOL, it does seem like he's after Pilati's job. But I'm rather fond of Pilati's work at YSL so I hope it doesn't happen for now.

 

[tboy34]

Azzedine Alaia Was Asked To Take Over At Dior

Azzedine Alaia was called to take the open creative director job at Dior, recently vacated by John Galliano, he has just confirmed. But: he said he wasn't interested — flattered, but not something he was going to pursue. The story of what happened with Galliano was a sad story, he added, and he didn't want to be part of the next chapter. As the Financial Times's Vanessa Friedman points out: "The sheer fact that the Dior leadership was thinking this way does ... make me think the field may be more open than the fashion world suspects. ... Since I would never under-estimate Bernard Arnault, chairman of Dior (which actually owns LVMH), nor CEO Sidney Toledano, ... this makes me wonder if perhaps the group has some interesting plans to change the way it does business up its sleeve, and will use the new designer as an excuse to do so. If so, it would be a revolution that would have an enormous ripple effect on the whole fashion industry. My guess is other brands would immediately fall in behind; everyone is looking for a reason to change and slow down, but everyone is scared to be the brand that sticks its neck out."

Source: http://www.fashionologie.com/Azzedine-Alaia-Called-Design-Dior-17944646

 

[Littleathquakes]

http://fashion.telegraph.co.uk/news-features/TMG8588245/Azzedine-Alaia-turned-down-Dior.html

interesting...

 

[mikeijames]

i not only love that he got offered the position, but i lovelovelove that he turned it down.

 

[dodencebt]

Alaia for Dior. No.

 

[KKnardi]

i not only love that he got offered the position, but i lovelovelove that he turned it down.

same here, they should give the job to a young designer, not an already very known and established one.

 

[tarsha]

Guess who got called about the Dior job?

In all the rumours floated about who would be the next big creative director at Dior, from names old (Givenchy’s Riccardo Tisci, Lanvin’s Alber Elbaz, Vuitton’s Marc Jacobs) to new-ish (Haider Ackerman and Sarah Burton) one that hasn’t been mentioned but has, I discovered, actually been called, is perhaps the most surprising of all: Azzedine Alaia. I had heard whispers, but he just confirmed it.

To be fair, from a sheer talent point of view, this is not surprising: Mr Alaia is often voted by his peers one of the most influential designers ever (really ever; not just of the 20th century), and has been building a house of singular vision for decades.

He is also one of the last hands-on couturiers, beloved by his atelier. Part of the conundrum facing Dior is they need a designer who can work with the couture, and most youngsters, brought up on ready-to-wear, don’t have the know-how.

Besides, two Dior muses, costume jeweller Camille Miceli and fine jeweller Victoire de Castellane, are often clad head-to-toe in Alaia. So you could well understand why the Dior folks might have thought of Azzedine for the top job at the big jewel in their particular crown.

But here’s the thing: Mr Alaia has been perhaps the most vocal advocate of all living designers about the need to change the fashion system, to slow it down, to stop the relentless demand for more collections and more store openings. Years ago he stopped having official fashion shows, and started showing, and delivering to stores, only when he was ready as opposed to when the schedule dictates. And one of the houses that most embodies that continuous pressure is Dior; indeed, when former designer John Galliano imploded, the pressures of the system were cited as major contributing factors.

Plus, of course, there are the small details that Dior rival Richemont actually owns a chunk of the Alaia business and has been helping create the designer’s archive (otherwise, he says, “they leave me alone”), and that the designer himself is in his 70s.

Since I would never under-estimate Bernard Arnault, chairman of Dior (which actually owns LVMH), nor CEO Sidney Toledano, however, this makes me wonder if perhaps the group has some interesting plans to change the way it does business up its sleeve, and will use the new designer as an excuse to do so.

If so, it would be a revolution that would have an enormous ripple effect on the whole fashion industry. My guess is other brands would immediately fall in behind; everyone is looking for a reason to change and slow down, but everyone is scared to be the brand that sticks its neck out.

In a way, having a more mature designer at the helm who could act as an agent of change and then hand a new regime over to posterity makes sense. And for this, I guess Dior/LVMH would relax their current thinking about not letting a designer continue his or her own line once they take on a heritage name, as I can’t imagine Mr Alaia closing his house for Dior – though I can imagine the enormous premiums Richemont would exact if Dior tried to buy them out.

Anyway, in the end it’s moot, because Mr Alaia wasn’t interested. Flattered, but not about to pursue. The story of what happened with John was a sad story, he said when I asked him, and he didn’t want to be part of the next chapter. And that’s even before you got to the other stuff.

The sheer fact that the Dior leadership was thinking this way does, however, make me think the field may be more open than the fashion world suspects. Goody.

ft.com