Chloe S/S 08 Paris

[chloehandbags]

Incidentally, I just checked and the IKEA 'Chuck Out Your Chintz' ad ran in 1997, in the UK.

Isn't 10 years of minimalism (in fashion, art, architecture and interiors) enough for anyone?

If I blinked and it completely went away from fashion, at some point (as it certainly didn't go away from art, architecture and interiors - I know that), it didn't go away for long enough for me to miss it.

Not that I didn't like minimalism in the late '90s/early '00s, or that I won't like it again, I'm just tired of it, now.

 

[Guessgirl96]

I like a few dresses, but I miss the old chloe. Overall I dont like the change.

 

[ptowngal]

erm yeah, this collection is- in a word- interesting... I don't like the sheer stuff, and while I like the general shape of most of the clothes, it's pretty rag tag. A lot of it looks like it was just thrown together regardless of how it clashed. I liked the colors he used, but I think the whole thing could have been a lot better in general.

 

[Guessgirl96]

I forgot to add - I think this new shear trend is a conspiracy by the fashion industry so that you have to buy two

 

[gius]

VIDEO IS ONLINE

http://www.chloe.com/version_en/

including music and all

is it just me or the video quality is actually bad?

 

[Lol de l'Onans]

I'm afraid I couldn't disagree more.

Firstly, no one is saying that Chloe should, necessarily, remain the Chloe of Phoebe Philo forever. In fact, if the replacement designer had been as good, or better, than Philo and well-suited/adaptable to the Chloe aesthetic, I don't think many people would even be mentioning her name very much (except, possibly, in passing), by now.

As that wasn't the case, of course devoted fans are, wistfully, looking back to the last good (or fitting) designer. But that doesn't mean that they are closed to new, relevant, ideas.

We are merely saying that Chloe should remain somewhat faithful to the original and long-standing aesthetic of the house - which is not a particularly rigid one, I might add, so it shouldn't be that difficult to do, if the right person was found.

Here's an interesting article (from academic.marist.edu) about Chloe's 50th birthday celebrations in 2002, in which Ralph Toledano, Chloe's Chairman and the man subsequently responsible for hiring Paulo, explains that, in his opinion, the reason that Chloe had survived for 50 years, up until that point, was due to all the designers at the house (pre-Paulo, of course) having emulated Gaby Aghion's (the woman who created Chloe) true spirit; which, according to the article, is 'modern femininity':


http://www.academic.marist.edu/mwwatch/spring03/articles/Fashion/fashion2.html


...and here's another article (from the Herald Tribune website) about the 50th birthday celebrations, by Suzy Menkes, where she describes how Phoebe Philo kept the original Chloe aesthetic of 'soft and womanly'.

In this article, Karl Lagerfeld also talks of how he has two sides and how Chloe (and later Chanel) was his 'softer side'; so he obviously understood the Chloe aesthetic well, too:


http://www.iht.com/articles/2002/12/10/fchloe_ed3_.php


Secondly, if this was Phoebe Philo's collection for her own label, or Paulo Melim Andersson's for his, I wouldn't be half as critical (whether I liked it, or not). As every designer who is designing for their own house has every right to change aesthetic, as and when they please, because their only real job is to create and recreate their own aesthetic, not to also respect an established aesthetic, as it is if they choose to work for a well-established fashion house, that they didn't found and that doesn't bear their name.

As I say, having thought about it, I really don't blame Paulo for all of this (all he did, bless him, was, innocently, accept a job that was offered to him and carry on designing in his own style).

I blame Ralph Toledano, who, very obviously, doesn't really understand the aesthetic of the house he runs and employed the wrong person for the job.

karma!!

 

[gius]

this thread is getting really quite hilarious

 

[ptowngal]

I forgot to add - I think this new shear trend is a conspiracy by the fashion industry so that you have to buy two

amen to that. I think it's ridiculous even having the models go out in one shear piece because who the heck wears that kind of thing on the streets? They should just layer it like some normal person would so buyers can get a better idea of how to show/wear the designs.

 

[disco54]

catryn horyns review

nytimes.com

she writes:
But could Mr. Andersson have starved his hungry audience more? The shapes in the collection were so undefined, so indistinct that you had the feeling the same dress was going by again and again. He seems to want to fit his abstract style to Chloé, but after two seasons, it’s starting to feel like a square peg.



sooooooooo true

 

[ms_prissy]

^Yup. That's exactly how I felt. A bit of 'they...all...look...the same...hmmm.'

I'm not going to get into the whole 'it's not chloe' debate rather I will just simply say I didn't like this collection. It didn't engage me. The whole thing just looks bland (yes, even with the colours) and undefined (as Horyns said).

He seems to be struggling with the whole 'being chloe' issue as much as we are on his behalf. And let's be fair: that's a major part of the problem.

 

[larien]

it is really weird to see that how much Chloe changed.it doesnt look like to me that real Chloe that everyone liked.i simply didnt like it

 

[Elli]

the shoes are nasty, and the rest is just a mess.

 

[Blanche DuBois]

chloehandbagsIncidentally, I just checked and the IKEA 'Chuck Out Your Chintz' ad ran in 1997, in the UK.

Isn't 10 years of minimalism (in fashion, art, architecture and interiors) enough for anyone?

If I blinked and it completely went away from fashion, at some point (as it certainly didn't go away from art, architecture and interiors - I know that), it didn't go away for long enough for me to miss it.

Not that I didn't like minimalism in the late '90s/early '00s, or that I won't like it again, I'm just tired of it, now.

God you're so right

I love that at least Cathy Horyn is by my side this time

Who wouldn't miss Phoebe? It's like now we're all watching gucci and miss Tom Ford...
Phoebe had the ability to put things in such a new way, to style the show, to give ideas, to give a sensation , a feeling to it...I watch those shows with such an excitement

I hope that in the next months, a thread would come up on the TFS titled
"paulo leaves Chloe" Please please

What about the idea of Rouland Mouret coming to the house?

 

[chloehandbags]

karma!!

Thanks!

 

[chloehandbags]

Cathy Horyn, nytimes.com:

'He seems to want to fit his abstract style to Chloé, but after two seasons, it’s starting to feel like a square peg.'

Talk about 'in a nutshell'!

Thanks for posting that, disco!

 

[chloehandbags]

God you're so right

I love that at least Cathy Horyn is by my side this time

Who wouldn't miss Phoebe? It's like now we're all watching gucci and miss Tom Ford...

Very true.

Thanks, BTW.

Phoebe had the ability to put things in such a new way, to style the show, to give ideas, to give a sensation , a feeling to it...I watch those shows with such an excitement

I hope that in the next months, a thread would come up on the TFS titled
"paulo leaves Chloe" Please please

What about the idea of Rouland Mouret coming to the house?

After seeing his latest show for Nina Ricci, I was thinking Olivier Theyskens might be an interesting (and apt) choice:


http://www.thefashionspot.com/forums/f60/nina-ricci-s-s-08-paris-60912-8.html#post3633727

 

[Blanche DuBois]

chloehandbags love you!

you know what I think of Olivier?, sometimes he is far too romantic...maybe because of the two houses, that were extremely high society, and that lead him to do tailoring, and night gowns...and the vision of boths (ricci and rochas) is pretty similar to me...but how would he develope in a more urban young hip label like CHLOE? maybe it would work...

I mean i would prefer anyone but this cold guy paolo.

if you sum up all the reviews, i think he is pretty screwed, so i wont be surprise if theres a shift of direction at Chloe again

 

[kahlilg]

I think it's interesting that some of you think that this is a completely different aesthetic from past Chloe collections. I don't know about all of that but I do think this line will be successful with most Chloe wearers.

I personally like it for what it is. And I also like the shoes too.

 

[ponytrot]

i will tentatively say i like it..

for some reason-, perhaps i need glasses but i can see the Chloe aesthetic of floaty, feminine pieces in this collection.

give the guy a chance!

 

[zaraffe]

^srsly, I think it's lovely.

HQ's






[fwd]