Chloe S/S 08 Paris

[elle_gb]

what a new direction of Chloe. I miss Phoebe.....

 

[BerlinRocks]

i check the HQ and details...
and it's true this collection is very good!!!
i love the shoes and the paintings effect and this trend of the mismatch prints...
it's a very good collection...
who styled Chloé?

 

[rangerrick14]

Its like old Chloe. I love the soft fem floatiness of it all. The hard edgy girl from last season was ok but not for my Chloe.

 

[Strikingly Chloe]

My favorite designs named after moi. LOVELY. Lovely!

 

[gius]

there seems to be a shift away from the 'girls who dress for other girls/themselves' aesthetic into something more general, a male eye, certainly. this transition will take some time, chloe under philo wasn't always attractive but was certainly always quirky, charming/cool...i dont know if these two girls would be friends, you know what i mean? they're from different sides of the track.

interesting you noticed this..
i guess it is sexier
even his f.w 07 collection

 

[cake_batter]

i was really looking forward to this. what a dissapointment.

i usually love almost every bit of a chloe collection but the only thing i liked was the tan crocodile "folded pizza box" purse.

 

[Mary-Anne]

Lovely colors and prints , feminine and light and airy.

I am not dissapointed , it's just not what I expected from last season,
but there are some very beautiful pieces there. The shoes are just amazing.!!

 

[adorefaith]

i love this collection ..
i think there are some beautiful clothes here..

 

[raica]

i love this collection too!!
it's so pretty and fresh and young with a slight edge. i agree, it is painterly. it isn't phoebe philo, but that's great (though i love phoebe)! i think it wouldn't be healthy if paulo wasn't trying something a bit different. god, i love sasha's top too. it's amazing!!

 

[susanna]

I think there are a lot of pieces that seem like natural continuations of the last collection actually. And I'm so in love with that black patchwork skirt over all most of this is very pretty and interesting
Maybe this collection is speaking to me in some dull swedish way that no one else gets

 

[CHEAPandCHIC]

I don't like any of it

 

[nanker_phledge]

Ok...When I first saw the older collections, I thought 'Yeah, I like the designs, it has a certain artistic appeal to it', but now the whole artsy/crafty aspect of it (patchwork, painting stain impressions, studded dresses) is really getting old and redundant.I miss the flirty,bohemian, sexy in a subbtle way style that Phoebe Philo had mastered.

 

[notmanons]

anyone have the track?

 

[gius]

kushie you can direct music-related questions to the Art of Noise forum:
Spring/Summer 2008 Runway Music

 

[jun3machina]

Last season's Chloe was so badly bashed on tfs, yet net-a-porter and Barney's are now featuring it in a big way, and it's influenced a number of SS08 collections, from COS to Martine Sitbon. No one complained that it wasn't gorgeous, just that it wasn't "Chloe"! Well, when Nicholas G started at Balenciaga with the surreal frills and feathers, it wasn't Balenciaga either. Or Galliano's early days at Dior. Or Mccartney at Chloe. I'd rather judge the designer by his/her talent than by some idea of a particular "style" the house is supposed to produce into infinity.

while i agree with what you have to say, and the fact that a designer should be open to their interpretation of the brand, i still think there needs to be some restrictions as to what makes the brand, what type of clothes is sort of a house style and i feel this guy's collections just are not chloe. they look like marni with a lil' calvin klien and a chloe tag. when i think chloe, i think 1970's mainly, fresh, kinda arty...but clean and feminine. i dont find these at all along those lines. I feel like he's trying to take miumiu and marni and add some chiffon to make it more chloe and it's not working....and WTF are up with the bags?!?!?

 

[Lol de l'Onans]

while i agree with what you have to say, and the fact that a designer should be open to their interpretation of the brand, i still think there needs to be some restrictions as to what makes the brand, what type of clothes is sort of a house style and i feel this guy's collections just are not chloe. they look like marni with a lil' calvin klien and a chloe tag. when i think chloe, i think 1970's mainly, fresh, kinda arty...but clean and feminine. i dont find these at all along those lines. I feel like he's trying to take miumiu and marni and add some chiffon to make it more chloe and it's not working....and WTF are up with the bags?!?!?

Man, you're RIGHT!!

 

[mimiko]

can anybody tell me where I can find HQs of this show

 

[Overdrive]

I was so desapointed by chloe. I expected much better from that show. If it wasn't for the shoes i would probably not even have looked at the entire show. Those dresses looks nothing like chloe. I wish they keept at least the chloe spirit trough their collections...

 

[chloehandbags]

i really dont think CHLOE as a brand should be defined by pheobe's designs because it isnt HER brand.
If pheobe had her own brand, and she poulled somethign liek this, you would have a reason to be angry and say "ITS SO NOT PHOEBE"
but its CHLOE. Not phoebe philo.

so i really think all of this whining is stupid.

you can dislike the collection but dont dislike it because its not chloe. i realize the brand has a certain look or aestetic but CHLOE hired paulo...

I'm afraid I couldn't disagree more.

Firstly, no one is saying that Chloe should, necessarily, remain the Chloe of Phoebe Philo forever. In fact, if the replacement designer had been as good, or better, than Philo and well-suited/adaptable to the Chloe aesthetic, I don't think many people would even be mentioning her name very much (except, possibly, in passing), by now.

As that wasn't the case, of course devoted fans are, wistfully, looking back to the last good (or fitting) designer. But that doesn't mean that they are closed to new, relevant, ideas.

We are merely saying that Chloe should remain somewhat faithful to the original and long-standing aesthetic of the house - which is not a particularly rigid one, I might add, so it shouldn't be that difficult to do, if the right person was found.

Here's an interesting article (from academic.marist.edu) about Chloe's 50th birthday celebrations in 2002, in which Ralph Toledano, Chloe's Chairman and the man subsequently responsible for hiring Paulo, explains that, in his opinion, the reason that Chloe had survived for 50 years, up until that point, was due to all the designers at the house (pre-Paulo, of course) having emulated Gaby Aghion's (the woman who created Chloe) true spirit; which, according to the article, is 'modern femininity':


http://www.academic.marist.edu/mwwatch/spring03/articles/Fashion/fashion2.html


...and here's another article (from the Herald Tribune website) about the 50th birthday celebrations, by Suzy Menkes, where she describes how Phoebe Philo kept the original Chloe aesthetic of 'soft and womanly'.

In this article, Karl Lagerfeld also talks of how he has two sides and how Chloe (and later Chanel) was his 'softer side'; so he obviously understood the Chloe aesthetic well, too:


http://www.iht.com/articles/2002/12/10/fchloe_ed3_.php


Secondly, if this was Phoebe Philo's collection for her own label, or Paulo Melim Andersson's for his, I wouldn't be half as critical (whether I liked it, or not). As every designer who is designing for their own house has every right to change aesthetic, as and when they please, because their only real job is to create and recreate their own aesthetic, not to also respect an established aesthetic, as it is if they choose to work for a well-established fashion house, that they didn't found and that doesn't bear their name.

As I say, having thought about it, I really don't blame Paulo for all of this (all he did, bless him, was, innocently, accept a job that was offered to him and carry on designing in his own style).

I blame Ralph Toledano, who, very obviously, doesn't really understand the aesthetic of the house he runs and employed the wrong person for the job.

 

[jenah]

its so not chloe. that disappoints me...