McQueen S/S 2025 Paris

[tourbillions]

lets not go back in the old conversation that no one else can do mcqueen as he did and thats its gonna go far from what he intended. Its a business and all fashion houses who are still standing are far from what the original namesake intended. mcqueen as a brand should move forward, burton has established the codes to make it commercial and she is as much mcqueen(the brand) as the man himself. His house might have moved on as a business but his work will always be his.

 

[Phuel]

Not the least convinced.

If moving on from the hot-glue gun and stapler class project of his debut, to garments that look like they’re solidly held together courtesy of a sewing machine (and likely a few stern words from Kering) is an improvement, then perhaps that’s a step up… Other than some decently sewn suits and pants that can already be had from COS and Tiger of Sweden— and nowhere near the sharp precision, nor the hard-earned sophistication of Sarah, it’s still all kiddie department’s version of the real thing: Muppet Babies McQueen. Maybe that’s the whole point of his appointment-- to sucker in those kidz that don’t know any better other than recognizing the label’s prestige. Eh.

(BTW, a few of his debut big wooly tops/dresses that look like sheepdog costumes, seems popular with all the publications and appearing in numerous fashion stories. Not sure if those designs being pulled may be paid for by Kering tho…)

 

[Norden]

It looks like a diffusion line. It’s fine. But it’s not it.

 

[PDFSD]

i disagree Mc Queen did not have a look or silhouette´s he repeated many cuts in tailoring and proportion and styling preferences

 

[Not Plain Jane]

While this is better than his first outing, it's still really underwhelming. And it looks too much like Burton and less like McQueen.
Problem is, McQueen's ideas often came from very dark places. Unless you hire someone who finds inspiration in the disturbing and unsettling, then the brand is going to move further and further away from it's foundation.

this, and truly this...
not a 'goth' because it's something more intrinsic, not a costume
a dark poetry/perspective is needed
the designs since his passing, even from burton, look like they're always working with a 'bold & beautiful' view point, maybe with a little "edge".
where's the dark, the ugly, the transgressive? collections based on garbage, and assault, the fleetingness of art, or the platonic sublime?

 

[ghostwriter10549]

Nice try with the sugar-coated version of the bumster pant and skirt, but it's a no for me. I would have liked it more if it were rougher around the edges, but this is now definitely the wrong brand to attempt it with, and I'm probably one of the last people who want to look glamorous but also tortured in the 2020s, however I really wish some high fashion brand would try to show what this would truly look like today. The funny thing is, if you think about it, if McQueen were alive, he would probably go all in with Demna's aesthetic. Anyway, love the pumps

 

[Thefrenchy]

I must be Helen Keller because I'm not seeing anything that would qualify as an "improvement".

 

[Snejana Onopka]

bad clothes and collection that showed no progress aside can I say something without everyone getting mad? id let sean hit it he's cute af

 

[Abracai]

The last piece was amazing. Seen at least 4 or 5 other pieces that looked dreamy and strangely reminded me of swans.
Some cool english XIX century influence on necks, gowns and sleeves.
A massive improvement, less theatrical than the first one where I spotted something that catched my attention anyway.
Strong vision on bags and accessories is needed.

 

[signifier]

I think this forum has an inclination towards being critical (which I also indulge in sometimes). But I think this was quite good, and in terms of the spectre of a show, very good. Great music, great venue, great cast. A little bit of theatre with the fog. Clothes were pretty good. An evolution. I would go as far as saying it is one of the better shows of the season.

 

[WAVES]

right before watching it I reminded myself of something that I had to do as well after a couple of Sarah’s collections: Lee is dead and there will never ever be one like him.

that said, I also think it was good.
it seems however that he tried to tick all thr boxes in a way that I cannot put my finger in, exactly.
hence why, I will give him the very well deserved, benefit of the doubt.

also, if they managed to make quite a decent ad campaign with the previous thing he did, this collection should be more than enough for a great advertisement!

shame the cast wasn’t a wee stronger.

 

[Alquimista]

An improvement from his debut no doubt. The dresses are attractive enough.

The twink menswear is still tragic tho.

 

[YohjiAddict]

Bad collection! I don’t see much in the way of improvement either… very basic and uninspiring, if a little bit less jarring. As a London show from a newish talent, it would maybe inspire a kinder reaction from me.

Many looks wouldn’t look out of place in one of MGC’s pseudo-edgy shows, it’s all so tame and bloodless.

The tailored looks that have that draped/gathered thing are so DAMN UGLY, I don’t know how they let those things parade down a Paris runway. Tortured is the word.

 

[brandon J pierre]

I think overall it's much better he just needs to tap in a little more. The fashion industry is the only industry in the world a person is asked to design like another person no one asks a person to paint like Pablo Picasso no one asks a person to sing like Whitney Houston it's virtually impossible but in the fashion world it is asked of. This is a much better collection I can see things better on the store racks we can see shirts pants and cool jackets they need to Target a younger customer which is what they're trying to do. Obviously though they've lost a lot of customers that high-end customers who wants impeccable tailored suits they have to lure her in also the fun girl that wants a cool type nasty dress.

He's trying his best covering all the basics of McQueen adding a little theatrics I think the show set was much better he just needs to tap in a little bit more. I'm rooting for him only because he's interested and well there are very few people that can do that job. Right now after this show you need just to focus on sales advertisement and marketing it's a lot of work and it can be daunting.

 

[Cocteau Stone]

Don't mind the elongated shirt collars. But that's it.

This is a weird as hell love child of Haider Ackermann, currently hopeless Ann D, and Mathew Williams' Givenchy, maybe with a touch of Riccardo. It's so bleak and so timid. And I hate, hate, HATE his shoe choices. Why must he insist on these.

I think people (myself included) were hard on Sarah after her appointment but she really did some fantastic collections. Even if some weren't entirely great, there were gorgeous dresses, tailored pieces and a decent shoe in the end. Here there is none of that. Not even a whiff of well made merchandise for the shop floor because it's all so cruddy. Maybe one more year and he'll get it... but I also don't think I'll care enough about it in the end.

 

[Salvatore]

The fashion industry is the only industry in the world a person is asked to design like another person no one asks a person to paint like Pablo Picasso no one asks a person to sing like Whitney Houston it's virtually impossible but in the fashion world it is asked of.

But we have to remember this is a brand with some set codes in place that one must abide by. Outside of fashion, codes are still in place. From Rolls Royce to Apple to McDonald's, those in charge of products are surely asked to design within parameters so that customers who are used to expect certain things from their brands are satisfied and comfortable. So people maybe are not asking him to design exactly like Lee, but rather to tap deeper into what the brand is about and pull from the rich source of a well that is just sitting there, quite frankly, unused.

All that said, I still maintain that this is a better step in the right direction.

 

[MulletProof]

The fashion industry is the only industry in the world a person is asked to design like another person no one asks a person to paint like Pablo Picasso no one asks a person to sing like Whitney Houston it's virtually impossible but in the fashion world it is asked of.

It really is the only ‘creative’ industry right now, that demands its best talents to morph into a covers band as soon as they show potential and quickly catch up with the best hits of the mega old and deceased original band and to make their personality as nondescript as possible. Not saying this guy has potential but the criteria applies for everyone… and it’s laughable.

 

[lmelanie]

It's not a bad collection it's just not MCQUEEN.

 

[pradn]

It's the same one lol. I don't know, I feel bad like he got the dream job but clearly has no idea what he's doing and knows it. Same with people above him. This really just reminds me of the new Gucci.

Oh God, I barely focused on the whole collection because of your Avatar! Trick or Treat!!

 

[avonlea002]

People at Kering should first decide what they really want from this house and act accordingly. They fired Sarah just to have Sean do poor version of her collections.
This brand died with Mcqueen.