McQueen S/S 2025 Paris

[donna tartan]

There is no Mqueen without isabella blow, capital and its patrons has moved from landed gentry to shareholders; the second to the third estate. Mqueen’s legacy and narrative is entirely enmeshed within that patronage. It will never be recreated as the material conditions have moved on.

 

[tourbillions]

oh please.. its not that serious. i doubt he had any idea at all about his own "legacy" when he was making collections. All this talk about his codes, his legacy, what mcqueen should be etc etc are all fanmade. he didnt create each collection thinking how it would add to the codes of mcqueen. Some would source that one video of him saying it should be ended after he is gone but also he sold his brand to suits. Who knows what was his mental condition during that interview. He already made the choice to go against his words of ending it the moment he sold his brand to kering.

 

[PDFSD]

oh please.. its not that serious. i doubt he had any idea at all about his own "legacy" when he was making collections. All this talk about his codes, his legacy, what mcqueen should be etc etc are all fan made. he didn't create each collection thinking how it would add to the codes of mcqueen. Some would source that one video of him saying it should be ended after he is gone but also he sold his brand to suits. Who knows what was his mental condition during that interview. He already made the choice to go against his words of ending it the moment he sold his brand to kering.

But there is an idea of a Mc Queen woman in his tailoring proportions he did 100 times , crazy shoes , extreme jewelry /tribal vibes, corset waist dark romance and also the futuristic dark fantasy, skull logo, the holding up the mirror to society and his own struggles, pissing off the establishment, britishness of his punk attitude, there are plenty of strong ideas and thoughts from his years one can pull from and make more clear for today's world ....KL did that with Chanel he selected the things she did often and repeated them endlessly..

Lee loved to pissed people, of regarding closing it down after him and his provocations in interviews was made for people to think as well as saying what he felt at the moment, while selling it to Kering to build his business bigger i don't see an issue , but more one of a survival for the brand to keep going and have stores and backing to do shows how ever he wanted etc. I would have done the same.
Its normal one can have the feeling to close it all down when he is not any more there, yet want to keep going while he is alive.

I don't know but MCQ is already a brand with codes and story, it's too young to hire someone to do something so far or weak from what the archives/its short history have to offer.

I think if you go there at this stage the job is to reinforce what he did and build upon it make its stronger and fresh and have buzz around the name , and for that you need skill and humility this guy clearly has non.

so many new brands lag a back story or history its a big plus when one has an archive and a reputation, its a big asset.

 

[miumeow]

I think the little details ruined it for me and made it look so cheap and somewhat tacky i.e the short trim ruffled organza, the crystals, the raw trimmings (I love raw trimmings but they just were not on a good level).

 

[bennyboy]

I kinda like it . no matter how, it's call Mcqueen now, right?

 

[Overindulgence]

It's like if CWK's and Matthew W.'s Givenchy tenures combined. I empathize with him because things take time and I am keeping in mind it's a Kering brand, but this Iacks a point-of-view so much that it hurts. You either have it or you don't. You don't have to like them but Anthony Vaccarello, Jonathan Anderson, and Demna all had a unique vision (even if if it is sometimes derivative) / energy in their early shows - and even more so for their debuts at their respective appointments. The shoes and accessories I see aren't good here either.

I agree that McQueen deserves someone more ~mentally dark~ at the helm. It is unfortunate because those types are such a risk for these conglomerates now - and I'm sure there's more measures in place for mental health, addiction, etc. For example, we see the Suzy Menkes videos of Daniel Lee and everyone is pointing out that he's on drugs. Lol.

I almost feel like Kering are just using him and Sabato as temporary placeholders/palette cleansers while they figure their strategy out. I guess to Kering there's less risk in something boring than something dynamic that doesn't work?

 

[tourbillions]

I think kering just wants mentally stable and commercial designers. They are in the hunt for their mgc.

 

[Irere]

There might not have been anything as hideous as the tourniquet jeans this time, but that was likely because McGRRR was copying Sarah Burton’s organza peony dresses and nothing actually designed by Lee McQueen. I guess one could argue the feather dresses had inspiration in Voss, and the black parade at the opening had touches of Supercalifragilisticexpialidocious, but that’s being generous. The one clear reference was the finale outfit, which was a pale imitation of the finale of Joan (by way of a glittery silver In Memory of Elizabeth Howe, Salem, 1692 makeover), but it lost all drama in its presentation and design.

One interesting idea — cutting a strip of transparency completely across suiting — was fouled by unnecessary ruffles. The devolution of the houses’s embroidery is just tragic; comparing those sad Lana del Rey twigs to the couture-level work the house made under Lee McQueen and Burton makes one want to cry.

Lee McQueen’s collections were carefully considered feasts built around a set of thematic ingredients. Burton at least understood that. McGRRR has thrown out another cheaply executed hotel buffet. Helming the house of Alexander McQueen is not about retelling Lee McQueen’s old stories but about having a unique story to tell through fashion. When the Powers That Be at Kering realize this, the house will thrive again.

 

[Not Plain Jane]

Well because that's not how it works. all those people would have to be let go and you would have to start all over again with no popularity and no history or funding behind their name it rarely works in that way. Branding and sticking to a brand identity is very important but with McQueen it is very difficult he was a dark individual with a heavy pass so dark (and I love him) but I never want to see anybody like that ever again. So you have to build on the codes that he left behind But it will take time. The greatest to ever do this was Karl lagerfield but what karl did was just an illusion, Coco would have probably hated him. I say let's give him two or three more seasons. Anyways this young designer will be fired as so many designers have been fired. His best bet is to simply have fun the same way McQueen had fun givenchy enjoy the experiences used to work houses gain knowledge. That's simply all that can be done. But as McQueen said his self this house should have been closed down. But no one would ever be perfect for this house it's too difficult.

I get your points; i really do. like you I come here and look with the hope that I'll catch a glimpse of Lee's designs. And I agree especially that for some houses it's going to be easier to continue than with others, because the vision is more imitatable or the codes are more clear and thus easier to translate. With designers like McQueen or even Demeulemeester it's always going to be more difficult, perhaps because of something ineffable or very personal in their work. That's why I said maybe "some houses" should end - but not all, for sure (like who could ever design for yamamoto after he's gone?) also agree that Karl did a great job of rejuvenating Chanel. It's just exhausting and maybe even sad to see this endless merry-go-round of designers going from house to house and trying... and often not really succeeding, hence the merry-go-round. as a creative industry it is a very unique problem ...

 

[PDFSD]

I think kering just wants mentally stable and commercial designers. They are in the hunt for their mgc.

Ancora guy is 1 of the two things you mentioned above both certainly not both,its true they are looking for safe like MGC

 

[Irere]

its true they are looking for safe like MGC

Are they? Because Sarah Burton was pretty much the definition of safe — at least as far as Alexander McQueen went — and yet they finally escorted her to the Kering corporate catapult and sent over the wall. (And LVMH thanks you very much.)

The more I see out of McGRRR, the more I’m starting the think they’re looking for people who will make silk purses out of sows’ ears. There’s a clear shift down in quality all around from the Burton régime: No more complicated embroidery and spangling, no more exacting tailoring, no more of the time-consuming, labor-intensive details that made Alexander McQueen’s clothes so desirable and desired. Once Kering got a hit of the kind of profit high to be had from, say, Balenciaga’s cheap Chinese t-shirts they could buy for pennies, silkscreen in Italy, and sell for $500, they wanted that kind of return from every brand. Costs must be slashed, and they want creative directors more concerned with bottom lines than hemlines. A dewy-eyed fawn like McGRRR knows he can be shipped back to obscurity at any moment and won’t say no to cutting corners wherever the corporate brass demand it.

 

[brandon J pierre]

I get your points; i really do. like you I come here and look with the hope that I'll catch a glimpse of Lee's designs. And I agree especially that for some houses it's going to be easier to continue than with others, because the vision is more imitatable or the codes are more clear and thus easier to translate. With designers like McQueen or even Demeulemeester it's always going to be more difficult, perhaps because of something ineffable or very personal in their work. That's why I said maybe "some houses" should end - but not all, for sure (like who could ever design for yamamoto after he's gone?) also agree that Karl did a great job of rejuvenating Chanel. It's just exhausting and maybe even sad to see this endless merry-go-round of designers going from house to house and trying... and often not really succeeding, hence the merry-go-round. as a creative industry it is a very unique problem ...

Very true Demeulemeester, McQueen, helmet Lang are so difficult to design for because the aesthetic that they develop came from personal issues and reactions of times and reaction of women of their time. The Merry-Go-Round will never stop it will only get worse in the future or right now we are seeing three to five year contract fashion design is a career just like being a doctor not all doctors are best but when you're sick you just got to make do 😂😂😂. I saw a video of some up close of this collection and they were pretty good those twisted suit things look great but they were poorly done those fairy fur jackets were made from silk threads. The gold jacket was made out of brass. I don't see him going anywhere anytime soon it's going to be 3 years before we really see him turn over.

By the way I passed by the McQueen store near my neighborhood in midtown Miami and the store looks absolutely crazy I can't imagine people walking in there and spending money. they did a full spin around to something I don't even know what it is. The store looks like it's hemorrhaging money

 

[tourbillions]

Are they? Because Sarah Burton was pretty much the definition of safe — at least as far as Alexander McQueen went — and yet they finally escorted her to the Kering corporate catapult and sent over the wall. (And LVMH thanks you very much.)

The more I see out of McGRRR, the more I’m starting the think they’re looking for people who will make silk purses out of sows’ ears. There’s a clear shift down in quality all around from the Burton régime: No more complicated embroidery and spangling, no more exacting tailoring, no more of the time-consuming, labor-intensive details that made Alexander McQueen’s clothes so desirable and desired. Once Kering got a hit of the kind of profit high to be had from, say, Balenciaga’s cheap Chinese t-shirts they could buy for pennies, silkscreen in Italy, and sell for $500, they wanted that kind of return from every brand. Costs must be slashed, and they want creative directors more concerned with bottom lines than hemlines. A dewy-eyed fawn like McGRRR knows he can be shipped back to obscurity at any moment and won’t say no to cutting corners wherever the corporate brass demand it.

Burton might have been safe compared to Mcqueen himself but some of her offerings were either too edgy or too decadent for the gen z's which seems to be Kering's target market. They are way too delicious and fashion-forward for them. They seem to prefer their basic baggy t-shirts and denim... Thats why brands like jacuqemus, casablanca or amiri are all over (atleast over here).

 

[Irere]

Burton might have been safe compared to Mcqueen himself but some of her offerings were either too edgy or too decadent for the gen z's which seems to be Kering's target market. They are way too delicious and fashion-forward for them. They seem to prefer their basic baggy t-shirts and denim... Thats why brands like jacuqemus, casablanca or amiri are all over (atleast over here).

Sarah Burton was clearly designing for a different clientele — someone with more money (and taste) than the "new" McQueen target customer. The core of Burton's collections was tailoring, lots of suits for office wear. This new iteration is more about clubwear. Burton dressed women for photo calls at society events; McGRRR is making clothes for selfies at trendy bars. Instagram and drunk hipsters don't require fine beading, perfect fitting, or the finest fabrics the way professional photographers and social élites do.

 

[Nimsay]

Sarah is literally Mr. McQueen's YSL.

Kering unwittingly made history firing her
... She is going to Givenchy - her mentor's first home in high fashion
a place that mentored him since it was his first haute couture...
its going to be her first haute couture...

We all know she will excel at Givenchy. I know I cannot wait to be there and already know I will be buying a couple things...

what is Kering doing? they have completely gutted McQueen which was - in normies eyes - cream of the crop. Normies associated McQueen with the absolute standard and now it is just trash.

 

[PDFSD]

Are they? Because Sarah Burton was pretty much the definition of safe — at least as far as Alexander McQueen went — and yet they finally escorted her to the Kering corporate catapult and sent over the wall. (And LVMH thanks you very much.)

The more I see out of McGRRR, the more I’m starting the think they’re looking for people who will make silk purses out of sows’ ears. There’s a clear shift down in quality all around from the Burton régime: No more complicated embroidery and spangling, no more exacting tailoring, no more of the time-consuming, labor-intensive details that made Alexander McQueen’s clothes so desirable and desired. Once Kering got a hit of the kind of profit high to be had from, say, Balenciaga’s cheap Chinese t-shirts they could buy for pennies, silkscreen in Italy, and sell for $500, they wanted that kind of return from every brand. Costs must be slashed, and they want creative directors more concerned with bottom lines than hemlines. A dewy-eyed fawn like McGRRR knows he can be shipped back to obscurity at any moment and won’t say no to cutting corners wherever the corporate brass demand it.

i agree with you ........with Mc Queen like Balenciaga the want buzz and new and edgy for that reason they bet on some guy from JWA studio as LOEWE is doing so well, while for Gucci they want a MGC i meant to say.

 

[PDFSD]

Sarah is literally Mr. McQueen's YSL.

Kering unwittingly made history firing her
... She is going to Givenchy - her mentor's first home in high fashion
a place that mentored him since it was his first haute couture...
its going to be her first haute couture...

We all know she will excel at Givenchy. I know I cannot wait to be there and already know I will be buying a couple things...

what is Kering doing? they have completely gutted McQueen which was - in normies eyes - cream of the crop. Normies associated McQueen with the absolute standard and now it is just trash.

i do think Sarah got stale at Mcqueen and shaking things up makes sense and she might have new energy at givenchy but it can also be dull and just beautiful like her Mcqueen was for long time.

Mc grrrr is just the wrong guy for the job, does not mean it was wrong for Sarah to move on.

 

[Irere]

i do think Sarah got stale at Mcqueen and shaking things up makes sense and she might have new energy at givenchy but it can also be dull and just beautiful like her Mcqueen was for long time.

Mc grrrr is just the wrong guy for the job, does not mean it was wrong for Sarah to move on.

But I don't necessarily blame Burton for the shortcomings of her collections for McQueen; she had a lot of restrictions and expectations from Kering for such a relatively small brand. There was a bottom line to be met. She did the nearly unthinkable: She made Alexander McQueen profitable.

 

[donyan]

I like this more than I ever liked Sarah Burton's collection. Nobody will ever be able to do McQueen justice again but at least there are some beautiful looks here. The main problem here is the absence of a clear point of view but some of these tailored jackets look great.

 

[Phuel]

i do think Sarah got stale at Mcqueen and shaking things up makes sense and she might have new energy at givenchy but it can also be dull and just beautiful like her Mcqueen was for long time.

Mc grrrr is just the wrong guy for the job, does not mean it was wrong for Sarah to move on.

Interesting you see her getting stale. I find the opposite effect with Sarah: She started out instantly stale— desperately attempting to be that person, that designer, that genius maverick that was McQueen by copying his archaic spirit rather than following her disciplined and skilled bespoke strengths (of which was already evlolving as the backbone of the label when McQueen was still here), then slowly gained confidence and likely the allowance, to imprint her true spirit and vision for the vision to offer a sophisticated and controlled maturity, that was a evolution for the brand. Had McQueen still be here, he would also likely have evolved to a similar direction as Sarah’s. Like their customers and like Sarah, he would know to grow up as well.

Beside lacking the slightest hint of an individual creative vision, this person doesn’t even possess the disciplined skills of a masterclass tailor and dressmaker. There’s just not a whiff of potential here and instantly dated. And some Phantom of the Opera smoke on the runway floor isn’t a mood…