At one level it makes me think of the 'sincere chic' thing Miuccha was doing in the early naughties. Jackie O, 1962, Granny chic and couturish embellishment in places. None of which I was expecting, or wanting, to see this season.
However, there's enough quirk in the collection to make it interesting. And on trend. Enough 90's references in the grungy plaid and the fetishy pvc.
And when there was a look that, on the face of it, was just too straightlaced 'lady' - because the thrust of the collection made you seek out the quirk, the kink, the edge, somewhere but you didn't find it represented in the outerlayers - you came to think the counterpoint must lie beneath, unseen.
Ultimately an on point and successfully executed synthesis but because if there is a newness the novelty whispers rather than shouts, I suspect the reviews might be lukewarm.