Australian model Catherine McNeil went from a tomboy who loved motorbikes to the girl of the moment with an exclusive six-month contract with Mario Testino and the starring role in V’s FALL Fashion Preview. It didn’t happen overnight…but almost
Photography Mario Testino
Styling Beat Bolliger
There is a long, elaborate history of models and photographers working together over and over again. Think of Bailey and Shrimpton, Bob Richardson and Anjelica Huston, Richard Avedon and Suzy Parker, Steven Meisel and Linda Evangelista. This fashion equation is how particular faces become iconic and certain photographers develop a singular style. Usually such relationships, and the process whereby a model is transformed into muse, develop slowly, picture by picture. Not so with Mario Testino and the 18-year-old Australian model Catherine McNeil, whom Testino photographed just twice earlier this year before signing her up to work exclusively with him for a six-month period.
“I was sent some Polaroids of Catherine by her agency,” Testino explains how he discovered the model, whose gamine looks might be described as Jean Shrimpton meets Shalom Harlow. “And I just thought, Wow! This girl is amazing. I see beautiful girls all the time, but many only work for one season. I am looking for something more than good looks, because when you take a photograph what is on the outside creates an impression for the viewer for five minutes. But if a girl can project what’s inside her, that’s what lingers. I think Catherine has got what it takes to be an amazing model. That’s why I’ve put her on an exclusive contract. It’s one thing to spot someone early in their career—I’m never afraid to take risks on a new girl—but it’s a great luxury to be able to develop what starts as an instinct and turns into a rich working relationship. It means we’ll have time to make some fantastic photographs together.” Testino has a notable track record for discovering models. He insisted on using Gisele when nobody else was interested in her Amazonian looks, taught Carolyn Murphy how to move, spotted Jacquetta Wheeler walking down a London street, and transformed the career of Kate Moss by being the first photographer to portray her as a sex symbol rather than as a waif. Still, more than a photographer does a supermodel make—even if Testino’s decision to sign McNeil to an exclusive contract creates a stir big enough to add powerful heat to her career. “It creates instant hype,” explains Stephen Gan, the editor-in-chief of Visionaire and this magazine. “But hype is only part of the mix. Mario told me about her. It was when I was watching the Paris shows that I was convinced. The model who opened the Givenchy show really caught my eye. It turned out to be Catherine.” That’s when Gan knew he was seeing the birth of a supermodel. And Catherine? What does she make of being spotted and signed by Testino? Well, in between takes of her first American cover shoot, we asked her. Daisy Garnett
DAISY GARNETT How did you meet Mario?
CATHERINE McNEIL One day my agency said to me, “Oh, Mario has looked at your pictures and he wants to work with you.” The next thing I knew I was in Paris and we were meeting.
DG Where are you from originally?
CM Brisbane, Australia.
DG How did you get started as a model?
CM I won a modeling competition when I was 14 in the Australian magazine Girlfriend. The first prize was to be on the cover, as well as an all-expense trip to New York to meet with Next.
DG So when you entered the competition, you knew that you wanted to be a model.
CM The agency I was already with, Dallys, in fact entered me. But yes, I knew that I wanted to give modeling a go.
DG Were you surprised when you won?
CM Completely. I cried.
DG And then you went to New York when you were 14. What happened?
CM Next told me that I was too young and should wait a little longer. I looked different then. I had blonder hair and baby fat. So I finished school and had time to just be a kid basically. I did keep in touch with Next through Dallys. I wasn’t desperate to be a model so much, but I did think this is something that I can do. So I went to Sydney to model there. I didn’t know anyone, but my agency found me a place to live in a house with a photographer, who was great.
DG Do you enjoy modeling now?
CM I’m really busy, and I like being busy. But in terms of being comfortable in front of the camera, that gets easier. I’ve worked with lots of photographers now, but each one is different. You are basically learning all the time.
DG When did you return to New York?
CM In January of this year. My agency put me up in a model’s apartment. My grandmother, Sandra, came with me and we shared a room with two other models. They loved sharing a room with her, and we all got on really well. But I hadn’t been there long when they said, “You’re leaving for Paris to meet Mario Testino.”
DG What was that like?
CM It was a whirlwind. I arrived in Paris on a Friday and told Mario that I had to go straight back to New York to do castings for the fashion shows. But he said, “Just stay for the weekend, it’ll be worth it.” It was. On Monday we shot an ad for D&G, and the next thing I knew, I was on the plane to Germany to meet the people at Hugo Boss. Within days I was shooting a campaign for them too.
DG Did you ever make it back to New York?
CM Yes, but only for a couple of days to sort out my stuff. And to get what I needed for traveling. I’ve left the rest of my stuff with my bookers there. I would like to have that city as my base, though, and I’ve seen a great apartment in the East Village that I’d like to buy.
DG Are you enjoying the whirlwind?
CM I am. But I’m still getting used to my new life. Things are very different now from when I was living with my mum, my grandmother, and my baby sister in Australia, and hanging out with my friends. Luckily, I like traveling.
DG You did many shows in Paris and Milan, and your first time on the catwalk was to open the Just Cavalli show in Milan. What was that like?
CM It was good. I wore a bubble skirt, boots, and a big black jumper, and a corset.
DG Do clothes interest you?
CM Wearing them is great, but I’m not that worried about fashion in my everyday life. I’m not really a girly girl. But I think my favorite show was Stella McCartney and that was because I just loved wearing her stuff so much.
DG You hear about how models live off champagne and cigarettes. What is your diet like?
CM I’m healthy. I eat mostly fruit and vegetables because that’s what I like. And I used to go to the gym four times a week but that’s become impossible now because I’m so busy. But I was always a tall, lanky kid. Luckily being so tall, which sucks when you are younger, gets better.
DG If you weren’t modeling, what would you be doing?
CM I wanted to study mechanics. I like bikes.
DG Motorbikes?
CM Yeah. I wanted to learn to ride a motorbike.
DG What is it like being chosen by Testino to work with him exclusively for six months?
CM I was so nervous the first time I met him. I was scared that he’d turn around one day and say, “Oh, you know what, we don’t want to work with you anymore.” But in fact what he does is teach me to be a better model. Last night I had to go home and practice my smile, for example. But he’s great. I love working with him.