Christian Dior Haute Couture F/W 2013.14 Paris

[Marc10]

I think the collection is quite fantastic. It's amazing how Raf takes classic silhouettes and dress codes and crashes it a completely modern and interesting range of ideas. He's a true forward thinker, which perhaps bother some people but for me makes him one of the lead designer right now. Each look is intelligent and intriguing. And I love how diverse the collection is, there's something great for every type of women.

 

[Deleted member 7575]

Yikes. It's really terrible. And HQ pictures prove to be terrible unflattering, too. So many looks that seem to be poorly fit or constructed (seems like this is becoming a trend in his Couture collections).

There's really nothing in this collection that genuinely makes the woman look beautiful. I mean, the models look terrible in most of these garments - it's certainly going to look sloppy Jennifer Lawrence!

Way too many ideas, way too many colors, fabrics, textures. It's just really amateur looking. I hate it.

Raf just...doesn't get it. He's proving more and more with each collection what a terrible fit he is for Dior. There's no chemistry. There's nothing about the collections he's done for the house yet that give me any indication he even has the slightest care and respect and love for the house. At this point, I think he did it for the paycheck.

Agreed
Agreed
Agreed
Agreed

 

[Marc10]

There's nothing about the collections he's done for the house yet that give me any indication he even has the slightest care and respect and love for the house. At this point, I think he did it for the paycheck.

Raf's biggest inspiration in his collections are Dior's heritage and codes. That makes absolutely no sense.

 

[dior_couture1245]

Raf's biggest inspiration in his collections are Dior's heritage and codes. That makes absolutely no sense.

Just because he references the classic Dior silhouette every season doesn't mean he has any real passion for the heritage. These collections of his for Dior seem so, so bitter cold. Even his most minimal collections for Jil Sander where magnificently charming (and flattering, at that).

 

[IsabelMarantBoy]

If he makes another damn dress out of that awful shiny organza again I'm going to scream

This is awful, and I didn't think he could do worse than his first ready to wear collection. I agree with everyone else's sentiments that he isn't a good fit, and now I'm sad just imagining what Olivier theyskens could do for this house

 

[thatsfierce]

I think is messy...

 

[Marc10]

Just because he references the classic Dior silhouette every season doesn't mean he has any real passion for the heritage. These collections of his for Dior seem so, so bitter cold. Even his most minimal collections for Jil Sander where magnificently charming (and flattering, at that).

But how on earth can you say he has no passion for the heritage? That's just silly. Even at Jill he had light Dior influences. They hired him for a reason, to bring his modern vision for Dior and that's what he's doing.

 

[saffronthecolor]

The gowns are so dull. You see better stuff at NYFW.

The only thing I like is the black dress worn by Catherine McNeil.

 

[dior_couture1245]

But how on earth can you say he has no passion for the heritage? That's just silly. Even at Jill he had light Dior influences. They hired him for a reason, to bring his modern vision for Dior and that's what he's doing.

Don't you think he was auditioning, though? It's no coincidence to me that (in retrospect) his last several collections for Jil were so Dior (I've even heard rumors that LVMH was trying to get rid of Galliano prior to his meltdown, so it's not like there weren't whispers amongst industry insiders that the position would potentially be available in the near future). And honestly, if he could reproduce that same effect here as he did there, I'd be much happier with his work (my avatar still happens to be from the Jil Sander FW11 collection - I loved what he did at Jil).

It's beginning to seem like, to me, he took the job for a big pay-increase and for the fame it would afford. Not because the Dior heritage was truly calling his name.

 

[Deleted member 7575]

It's beginning to seem like, to me, he took the job for a big pay-increase and for the fame it would afford. Not because the Dior heritage was truly calling his name.

 

[Deleted member 7575]

But how on earth can you say he has no passion for the heritage? That's just silly. Even at Jill he had light Dior influences. They hired him for a reason, to bring his modern vision for Dior and that's what he's doing.

I understand what you're arguing but the way I see it is that despite Raf's obligation to research the house's history and reinvent it, which I think he is genuinely attempting, it doesn't mean his research is earnest or guided by the right motivations.

What Raf has distilled and called "Dior" feels more self-serving than actually relevant to what the house needs to go forward. The house was a hallmark of elegance and feminine triumph. It was also a fashion leader. And while this has been interpreted literally over the years to the point of death (Marc Bohan, the longest reigning designer for the house was a huge bore at the end of his tenure) it can still be given a new spin and still maintain that beacon. Galliano did that for years before things became a horrifying drag farce.

Raf is trying to experiment and that is always commendable. That experimentation, or at least the pretense of experimentation, has kept him on the critic's good side and it's the lack of it that made them come down hard on Bill Gaytten. But the overwhelming strain of his intentions overshadow the actual and mostly awkward results. Just because it's different doesn't mean its good. Raf's design process feels frittered with flighty inclinations rather than real design ideas and his execution is as constipated as a senior citizen overdosing on bananas. He seems to have lost sight that the aim is to make desirable clothes, not these pseudo-art pieces that he feels compelled to keep forcing each season.

Raf doesn't have handle on dresses, jewelry, or shoes and it is beyond me how he has lost all of this going from Jil Sander to Dior. Heck, his suits for Dior don't even make any sense and that was his main job at Jil! Not sure what's going on with him but these shows are embarrassing. I feel like we're going to look back at Raf's time at Dior with the same mortification as Julien McDonald for Givenchy.

And for the record I loved what he did for Jil Sander.

 

[MoniqValentino]

I don't like this...is the worst Raf collections for DIOR ever for me.

 

[frk-frost]

Anyway, good effort, average execution. Individually, the clothes are wonderful.

That's just how I feel.

 

[Morphe]

Raf's biggest inspiration in his collections are Dior's heritage and codes. That makes absolutely no sense.

Nonsense indeed.

 

[KKnardi]

Hmm... I like the use of fur, except for some pieces. Otherwise I don't see many flattering outfits. the gowns in the end are just horrible... last season was def better

 

[GivenchyHomme]

His collction for fall was more beautiful and couture then this hot mess. Is he trying to play a joke on everyone?

 

[simple_elegance]

Some cool pieces, but overall it's Superfug Central.

 

[maxlinden]

Raf's biggest inspiration in his collections are Dior's heritage and codes. That makes absolutely no sense.

urbanrhetoricblog

 

[dior_couture1245]

So poorly made, really. Just look at these photos pointing out extremely obvious flaws!

(http://marij-94791199.tumblr.com)

 

[5 8 6]

I don't care about what everyone says, for me Raf is the perfect designer for Dior: he has managed to make the brand relevant after many years of poor direction. This collection, for me, is another hit: of course there are some unflattering looks and it should have been edited better, but the biggest part of the outfits are amazingly beautiful. I also love the fact that he has done something completely new, while still being faithful to Dior's heritage.