Dior: Vivid colors to banish doom and gloom
By Suzy Menkes
Monday, January 21, 2008
PARIS: 'The colors! The lightness! The embroidery! It was magical," said the actress Diane Kruger backstage at the Dior show on Monday. Like everyone from the burlesque artist Dita Von Teese to John Galliano himself in his Henry VIII hat, Kruger was in the chic black that dominated the audience as the Paris haute couture season opened.
If the set of limpid water surrounded by silken boudoirs looked like a sensual spa in your Freudian dreams, the show itself was a multicolored, multifaceted, super-size-me tonic. It wasn't Galliano's most emotionally moving presentation nor his most daring, but it had a mesmerizing combination of puffy-light silhouette with intense decoration.
"Haute couture is the place for dreams," said Galliano, referring to the architecture and the lightness of clothes that - even when a suit was relatively severe - would have a jacket that ballooned out at the spine. Add fuchsia, chartreuse, canary yellow, leopard print and embroidery that winked like the gilded plaques of a Gustav Klimt painting, and you had a rich and rare combination of color and pattern.
As the models did their usual Galliano teeter on weird platform shoes, batting fluorescent feathered eyelashes at the eager photographers, you might have thought that the designer had been doing his research at the historical erotica exhibition on display in Paris rather than merely channeling the subtle sensuality of the John Singer Sargent portrait of "Madame X" that he named in his program notes.
Whatever the references, Galliano's vision at Dior is to click on an image from the past but drag it like a screen icon into his world. However wide and swooshing the dress (and that could mean with a short or a floor-sweeping hemline), its shape seemed to grow out of a 21st-century body. If there were giant roses bursting from the hem of a purple dress, the bodice was sinuous and fitted. A cocktail dress would swell, Poiret-style, at the hips, but the rest of the yellow satin would be restrained as a sheath.
The designer has learned so much technically in his decade at Dior - not least how to take a full-backed coat or a grand gown from the Christian Dior archives and produce it as a weightless cupola.
Didn't the embroidery weigh things down a bit? A single dress with a print that looked more pop art than classical could have been the start of something fresh and intriguing. But once that look melted into the Klimt embroideries, with all their russet richness and metallic glimmer (hairdos included), the show just rolled on along as a visual treat.
And it seems that excess can equal success.
Bernard Arnault, chairman and chief executive of LVMH Mo�t Hennessy Louis Vuitton, said that couture was having a golden moment at Dior, partly thanks to emerging luxury markets like Moscow.
Sidney Toledano, president and chief executive of Christian Dior Couture, said that, overall, couture figures were up 35 percent in 2007 from the previous year, with new money from across the globe discovering high fashion. The markets may have plunged about 7 percent while all this gorgeous glamour was walking the runway, but high fashion, it seems, is coloring over the gloom and doom and turning a financial crisis into a crescendo of opulence.