Shanghai 2011 - The “Greatest City in the World” according to CNN could also be fashion’s next capital.
On Tuesday, Elite elected 15-year-old Julia Schneider as the winner of the 28th edition of Model Look Contest, an event that also marked the launch of the agency’s Chinese branch, set to open early 2012.
70 girls on show, 55 of which are soon to weep backstage. 15 are to be pre-selected, 3 plump contracts are handed out, and one lucky teen earns fattest check of them all. For the lucky few, this is a rare opportunity, especially as many of the contestants are plucked from towns lightyears away from Paris.
Unsurprisingly, the focus was on Xi Xao, the Chinese contestant who made it down to the 7 last standing – jury member Sun Zhe, editor in chief of Grazia China, even complimented on her ‘international beauty, not just because she is Chinese!’ in the middle of the award ceremony. By the end of the evening, Xi Xao was already booked for a shoot with Pop Magazine the very next day.
In a time of financial dismay, Western countries all seem to be looking in the same direction, and start to acknowledge China’s role as the leading economic force in the world. Similarly, the fashion industry is set to become increasingly Asia-centric. Both Louis Vuitton’s last campaign, featuring Chinese supermodel Fei Fei Sun, and Vogue France’s recent special issue on China are clearly tipping their hats to Asia – surely a symptomatic move of an Asia-orientated fashion future.
Obviously fashion can longer only focus on its four traditional capitals, while we are facing yet another wave of recession, China remains the world’s second biggest consumer of luxury goods. Elite China, Vuitton, Vogue, are all realizing the vitality of fluidifying marketing between East and West, rather than creating secondary, local campaigns. “The aim is to have more Chinese models on Western catwalks, but also, for example, export Constance Jablonski’s campaigns for Estee Lauder to the Asian market.” Says Elite World’s president Vick Mihaci in a recent interview.
One can only wonder if it is going to be as simple as they hope. Chinese beauty standards deeply vary from Western standards. As the French model and jury member Noémie Lenoir jokingly said, “Usually men look at me in the street and think I’m smoking hot but here I feel like an alien! No head turning! ”. Don’t get me wrong, it’s not about being Chinese in order to be successful in China, but about a deeper cultural difference. Having lived in Shanghai for a year now, it has become clear that the local taste is geared towards harmless, “heart-shaped faces, rather than sharp or sexual features”, says Yi Guo, Vogue China’s style editor. In a nutshell, Audrey Tautou would take home the tiara in a Chinese Pageant against Laetitia Casta hands down.
As Elite’s press release claims, to company is here “to set off standards”, but it might not be as straightforward as they expect. “We’re a proud country and if you think you’re just coming to impose something on us and not open a dialogue, don’t expect to be well received.” Ms Guo added. Let’s wait and see if Elite leaves its mark on China, or China on Elite.
- Tess Lochanski