"Women will buy something they can't resist - you have to give them the dream," said the Lanvin designer Alber Elbaz, joking that, with banks crumbling, a dress looked like a good investment.
The end of his show created that jolt of desire in its vivid mixes of sweet, but never sugary colors, and its introduction of playful animal prints, bold sunglasses and crystal glitter shoes.
But, like Paris Fashion Week itself, Lanvin left the best until last. The show built up slowly from tweaks to the familiar shadow-the-body silhouette. A dress would break into a round shape with a single puffed-up sleeve or with a draped skirt, the shapes always carefully measured so that slim pants would balance a fuller top.
From the start, Elbaz was underscoring the codes of the house, from visible zippers to jewelry perfectly toned to the cloth at the breast. The clothes were gentle, enhanced the wearer and with the addition of pretty colors like yellow and sky blue, they will be snapped up by Lanvin fans.
But the designer suddenly broke out, as outfits were rendered in juicy mixes of coral and raspberry or cranberry with puce. The feline prints came out on slinky dresses and everything seemed to get more vital, as if the colors were digitally enhanced to dramatic effect. Although he was slow to move forward, Elbaz was right to build up to a crescendo, leaving the audience cheering at the delicate Lanvin mix of consistency and courage.
iht.com // suzy menkes