Marc Jacobs F/W 08.09 NYC

[chloehandbags]

style.com

 

[chloehandbags]

style.com

 

[chloehandbags]

style.com

 

[chloehandbags]

style.com

 

[Aby]

A handful of looks I liked but the rest was pretty bad.

Well I guess I'll save a lot of money on American brands next season...

 

[chloehandbags]

style.com

 

[chloehandbags]

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[chloehandbags]

^ ! they're like 'lotus shoes'

thanks for posting the details, CHB

My pleasure, gius.

I quite like those shoes!

 

[youarearockstar]

and i dont usually like this palette of pastels or is it sea tones? but they are very clean and nice to see after a long time
feeling of robes in this collection... all about comfort and keeping warm

^It's definitely more of an oceans and seashell palette, you're right gius! I think that's part of what makes it so interesting for me, as these usually more jovial pastel colors are now being washed out and transformed into something somber against the grey and charcoal hues.

Now as for this "sexless safety" comment, I have to disagree. While Marc isn't giving us any clues, I'll quote the designer himself: "I'm entitled to what I feel when I look at something...my feelings are accurate." While there is a feeling of restraint and control, I think the overt idea of displaying what is sexy has been replaced with something far more interesting. Phelps touched on it by addressing the masculine cuts, but I think there's some 'revolution' so to speak, on the idea of sex and gender in clothing; more so, how to transition between male and female elements in dress. Given this, I suppose the Joan of Arc feeling I got from a few of the gowns would make more sense, at least in my mind. And the Johnny Tremain, tricorner hats could be a nod at women colonizing traditional elements of menswear for themselves. Assuming that my waxing philosophical makes sense to anyone other than myself...

 

[Spike413]

I have to say, the jewelry is fantastic.

 

[iluvjeisa]

I don't really understand the term "sexless safety" - it seems to me that for many it would be more gutsy to bundle up in something cozy and pear-shaped than showing off your sexiest features (be they slim ankles, great shoulders, slim waist, or all of the above).

 

[Street_a_Licious]

the blouses. and that's it. they can't save the collection, at least not for me.

 

[Alexandra8715]

ok well here's my opinion
I really like this, it looks like he's used the colour palette of a Spring/Summer collection and put it onto the fabrics/cuts of an autumn/winter collection. Very refreshing in my opinion and sure to be uplifting in a season of all blacks/forest greens/burgundy and generally dark colours.
I guess I'm looking at the perspective of somebody who can't afford this so I don't have to worry about whether or not I'm going to want to buy this, but if I could, I would definitely be all over those shoes, bags and coats. Love how woolly and cosy all this looks.
is there a video of the show? I'd love to see it with sonic youth playing in the background to see ho wit works. Wonder if they played sugarkane.

 

[chloehandbags]

^It's definitely more of an oceans and seashell palette, you're right gius! I think that's part of what makes it so interesting for me, as these usually more jovial pastel colors are now being washed out and transformed into something somber against the grey and charcoal hues.

Now as for this "sexless safety" comment, I have to disagree. While Marc isn't giving us any clues, I'll quote the designer himself: "I'm entitled to what I feel when I look at something...my feelings are accurate." While there is a feeling of restraint and control, I think the overt idea of displaying what is sexy has been replaced with something far more interesting. Phelps touched on it by addressing the masculine cuts, but I think there's some 'revolution' so to speak, on the idea of sex and gender in clothing; more so, how to transition between male and female elements in dress. Given this, I suppose the Joan of Arc feeling I got from a few of the gowns would make more sense, at least in my mind. And the Johnny Tremain, tricorner hats could be a nod at women colonizing traditional elements of menswear for themselves. Assuming that my waxing philosophical makes sense to anyone other than myself...

Certainly makes sense to me.

I think we're definitely moving towards more androgynous shapes, especially for outerwear, once again.

Marc says he wasn't inspired, but I think it's pretty clear that he was; even if it was mainly subconcious. I think the truth probably is that he doesn't want to cite his inspirations (Karl for Chloe being a notable one), as he always gets so much stick for being inspired by other designers; which I think is pretty unfair, really, as who isn't? It's all been done before and has to be done again.

I remember these very pale, shell-like pastel colours being very popular when I was a child, in the early '80s. They were commonly used for soft wool felt scarves, which were often worn with soft-grey and/or charcoal, wool (often fine houndstooth, or diagonally striped), tapered from the hip, cocoon-like, small stand-up collar, or cowl-neck coats (quite like some of these) and talking of 'sexless safety', around that time it was also fashionable, in the UK, for a while, for teenagers and even grown women to wear giant, pastel-coloured fleece babygrows (not sure what they're called in American English?) in lieu of dressing gowns/bathrobes (and some of these pastel coats are definitely, also, somewhat reminiscent of those, to me)!

I think the whole notion of comfort and protection is very relevant, here.

At that time, we were going through a recession, just as we are about to, again and people (including, presumably, Marc) want to feel protected, comforted and cocooned; particularly when they are outside.

I think there's a an interesting dichotomy, though, between the protective shapes and the soft, pastel colours; as, in reality, I don't know how safe and secure I would feel dressed in these very light-toned colours, from top-to-toe, in public.

I think I would actually feel rather soft and exposed; like a shelled clam!

 

[Jesper D]

If you showed this collection to me without telling me who it was I guess I would go for Margiela on some photos and Lanvin on a bad budget on other photos.

I don't see the Marc in this, and that scares me, just like the strong difference between the collections last year freaked me out too.

This collection has a strong theme though, the pieces are at least connected to each other visually.

Well... I hope the reviews in the press are nicer than the reviews here.

 

[chanterdanser]

After seeing all the outfits, I decided that I like it! I do not like it as much as last season, but i still think it's good.

 

[KhaoticKharma]

Um... love the bags.

 

[Tinuviel]

Love the sorbet colored coats, this palette really appeals to me... too bad the rest of the clothes don't.

 

[Dkammern]

it is not VERY GOOD, or GENIUS, and all that... but still not bad at all...
i quite like the mood of the whole thing

some people say that marc will always get great critics just because it's marc jacobs, but if it really wasnt good, how would he get that? who is he? some powerful capo blackmailing the press? i think he really is credited for the work he does, and not for his name.
maybe just because he is somewhat different to what everybody else does
(all the above apply to miuccia)

 

[LostInNJ]

I have to say, the jewelry is fantastic.

I second that.