cathy horyn has spoken:
Dior: Can We Tease More?
By
Cathy Horyn
You can’t smoke in the cafes anymore, the French president is married to a former model, and if the models at Dior had worn bigger wigs and hair pieces, they would have tipped over and broken a nail. France–or, anyway, French fashion–seems confused. Coco Rocha motored down the runway at Dior today like a little tractor cutting through a snow drift. Her teased hair and painted eye lids looked that heavy. She had to manage the whole thing, along with her gown. The press notes to John Galliano’s show, taking a line from a Dior press statement in 1961, said, “Never forget the woman.”
What exactly does that mean in 2008? We have women presidents and prime ministers, women corporate chiefs, artists and great academics. There was that interlude in history called Women’s Lib. Who is being forgotten? Gloria Guinness and Babe Paley? Although Galliano effectively drew on the vivid palette and volumes of his January couture show, mainly for the evening clothes, the rest of the collection was a throwback to the era of luncheon suits, helmet hair and little gloves.
If there was a new interpretation, it wasn’t evident–and hasn’t the style been interpreted enough? “Never forget the woman” probably sounded creaky in 1961; today it invites a drag revue.
Imagine all the contemporary women who might actually like to see something for them–today, now. Well, not at this Dior show.