You know, I think we're all kind of missing the real point of this collection. It's not about getting that secretary look or the 60's line...the real thing that's going on here is this seismic shift to the chest area as the focal point of clothing. For seasons now it's been the shoulder, before that (and now still) the waist and now for the first time in quite a while, there is construction going on in a lot of these pieces making the boobs the new area of the body to look at. It's in those layered ruffles or lace or whatever it is....seamlines are exaggerated around the breasts etc etc. All the more reason to fly in all those commercial girls and give the dress with the perkiest area to Lara. Afther New York I thought we were gonna move up to the neck and collarbone area, but Miuccia probably didn't feel like taking a detour and went directly for the chest.
Good point well made. The theory is supported by around half the looks in which, yes, the cut and detailing draw the eye there. And I guess with Prada that's about as strong a statement as you're likely to get. She's always nuanced never one note.
Although, revisiting for a second look, if there is one note it's that the Prada woman for AW10/11 is just bloody scary. Not in that outdated warrior fierce way of course, but in that she's totally and utterly unhinged, nuts.
I don't think I should like to meet her in a dark alley. The crazy wool hosiery, the menacing gloves, the insane glasses, and just something almost undiscernable about the strangeness of the main pieces, she's like some sort of ex Stepford wife emerged from the morgue or the madhouse not hellbent on revenge but wandering randomly. It's the randomness that's darkly unsettling and disconcerting. And of course love for that.
Whilst there is an element of familiarity here, I don't feel we've seen before the way the check sort of melts on to the early 60's silhouette. Sort of 1962 mashed up with 1992 and ok the roots are retro but the synthesis does create something original and very of the moment.
And yes there's a comfortingly familiar Pradaesque aspect to the pieces that ought to convert well commercially at point of sale but unquestionably an artsy editorial aspect too in the unsettling randomness. It's that duality that Prada has always delivered perhaps better than anyone.