Who will sweep up at the S/S 2012 shows?

[Flyest]

DJ

fordmodels

Evija Kreismane

i-donline.com

 

[jmrmartinho]

Evija Is So So Stuning...shes A One To Watch!!
And I Really Wanted To See Sara Sampaio There Too!!

 

[Flyest]

Annie Åkerman @ Major NY & Ford Europe

majorwomen.blogspot

 

[TREVOFASHIONISTO]

^ keeping an eye on her

Does anyone know what effect the hurricane will have on castings ? It seems like quite of few models haven't arrived yet (lucky them) and it doesn't look like flights will be allowed in for a few more days...

twitter/gregchan

well the weather is fine here now
i do know that models are coming in later this week
so i don't believe castings will be affected

 

[penny609]

Sincerely and seriously, I think no one will sweep up.

Irony apart, I wish Corinna Ingenleuf and Ehren will have a nice season. And despite she's got no showcard once more, I'll be very happy to see Ronja Furrer having a good one too. Not that I'm a fan of short hair at all but these are the faces that caught my eyes lately. And Ronja naturally shines, when personality matters.

Why not also Sojourner but her editorial work didn't make a big impression on me.

If the Prada gang fails at fashion week, it might look like bad news for the business but I won't miss anyone from that crew. I'm fed up with teenies appearing on ad campaigns, tired of the "out of the blue factor" when no one can really pop up from nowhere anymore. It's all fake and everyone knows it as well as everyone knows overnight sensations are urban legends (Ivan Bart's words about Lara Stone illustrates this very well).

I know there is a pessimistic twist to my posts but this being said, I secretly hope for a big surprise. Something that may change my perception of what's becoming way too industrial to my eyes.

 

[valliaddict]

^^there has been a whole wave of new faces taking over the game, lately- Arizona, Saskia, Daphne, Aymeline, Emily B, etc., so you're probably right- no new face will "sweep up" this season; however, I do believe that there are some girls in this thread that will have ther breakthrough in the near future. The problem is that there are sooo many vets that need to be taken out in order for these new girls to make it. I know people may disagree, but be prepared to see girls like Magdalena, Kasia, & Anna S to fade away in a couple of seasons and be replaced by these new models.

 

[penny609]

^^there has been a whole wave of new faces taking over the game, lately- Arizona, Saskia, Daphne, Aymeline, Emily B, etc., so you're probably right- no new face will "sweep up" this season; however, I do believe that there are some girls in this thread that will have ther breakthrough in the near future. The problem is that there are sooo many vets that need to be taken out in order for these new girls to make it. I know people may disagree, but be prepared to see girls like Magdalena, Kasia, & Anna S to fade away in a couple of seasons and be replaced by these new models.

Very interesting post. Thanks a bunch for bringing this up. I agree they were all 'new' somehow but most of the names you gave have a special story that goes straight against the agencies policy nowadays.

Arizona had her breakthrough at 22 or something like this. She's been working on a lower (read: commercial and sustainable) level for 4 years if I'm not mistaken and had a child meanwhile.

Aymeline is 25 or 26 if my sources are correct. She's been a lingerie and commercial model for years before the Balenciaga gig. For the record, when I was still writer for FDIB, I asked for some pictures of her and her agency was surprised I was interested in a B-list model... now she is close to stardom. She is older than the usual newbie but she works it out. She's got talent and personality that makes the difference. Not one of these teenagers everyone seems to expect to be the next superstar. Women like Aymeline are one of the reason I'm still interested in fashion and when I'm talking about surprise, I'm thinking of someone like this. More than 20, strong and talented. A woman that brings clothes she wears to life. Not another clotheshorse who is fated to disappear after one season and a half.

Saskia is older than me and I'm far from 20 already. She started as a new face while she was more than 10 years older than the regular new face. She got it all from VP to VI.

Daphne -- she is the exception that confirms the (new) rule. She might be lucky (and so is Lindsey "Wichita" Wixson) but it's not due to nothing. She has a look of her own. I'm not a fan but I'm not blind enough to ignore she doesn't look as bland as the army of newbies every agency throws to our eyes each season.

Emily Baker. It's too early to make a statement for me. She did well but nothing says she'll last in this business. And when I hear Baker, I still think of Boney M's Ma Baker more than of Emily. I might be old fashioned and have bad taste but that's it. You need more than a few cool glossy pages to change the (fashion) world.

And last example -- Kulikova. She was branded hotter than hell when she started, got a multi-girl spread in VI then became a regular clotheshorse mostly doing runways and near zero when it comes to editorials... and campaigns, the latter still being the ultimate achievement in this business.

So, I've got to agree with you, some girls will have a decent or even great season. But the way agencies are handling this whole process is really worrying for anyone really loving beauty and photography. We need muses, not hype. I might be rude and idealistic but that's the way I see it now.

 

[penny609]

PS & BTW: Kasia and Magdalena already started to fade away somehow. But on the other hand, Ms Selezneva still works it out. Of course, I don't deny there is a part of subjectivity in these words but I can feel Anna kept her level and still looks more exclusive than the two others (and a lot of models from the same era).

 

[valliaddict]

^^^@penny609- Such great posts . While I am not a fan of 2 out of the 5 girls we both used as examples, there is no denying that the industry has made a clear message that they all are hear to stay(for at least 3 more seasons ).
I think one of the biggest problems is that the big agencies sign way too many new girls each season. 99% of the new girls are doomed for failure from the very start. For example, Next agency signs 15 new models, and they only push for 3 of them. The other 12 models have a crappy season in New York, and then Next doesn't even bother sending them to Milan & Paris. When a girl only walks for Baby Phat & Z Spoke, her "exclusivity" is tarnished, and her career will probably not get any better, it will predictably get worse. Very rarely can girls pull themselves out of that hole. Girls like Joan Smalls and Arizona Muse are very rare exceptions to this rule.
Another big problem is that the industry in not loyal to models anymore. They just drop them like hotcakes. This whole thing about being "fresh" is sooo annoying. I agree with you- we need muses, not hype. Unfortunately, a few potential supers have been thrown to the dogs for no longer being "fresh". They were not given the proper amount of time to really shine. Designers are scared to supers back on the map because in the nineties people cared more about the models rather than the clothes; however, there are more ways to promote your brand now(facebook, style.com, livestreams, etc.). There is room for both top designers & supermodels.
PLEASE, SOMEONE BRING THE FASHION BACH TO FASHION!!!!!

 

[cologne_rocks]

^^^@penny609- Such great posts . While I am not a fan of 2 out of the 5 girls we both used as examples, there is no denying that the industry has made a clear message that they all are hear to stay(for at least 3 more seasons ).
I think one of the biggest problems is that the big agencies sign way too many new girls each season.99% of the new girls are doomed for failure from the very start.For example, Next agency signs 15 new models, and they only push for 3 of them. The other 12 models have a crappy season in New York, and then Next doesn't even bother sending them to Milan & Paris. When a girl only walks for Baby Phat & Z Spoke, her "exclusivity" is tarnished, and her career will probably not get any better, it will predictably get worse. Very rarely can girls pull themselves out of that hole. Girls like Joan Smalls and Arizona Muse are very rare exceptions to this rule.
Another big problem is that the industry in not loyal to models anymore. They just drop them like hotcakes. This whole thing about being "fresh" is sooo annoying. I agree with you- we need muses, not hype. Unfortunately, a few potential supers have been thrown to the dogs for no longer being "fresh". They were not given the proper amount of time to really shine. Designers are scared to supers back on the map because in the nineties people cared more about the models rather than the clothes; however, there are more ways to promote your brand now(facebook, style.com, livestreams, etc.). There is room for both top designers & supermodels.
PLEASE, SOMEONE BRING THE FASHION BACH TO FASHION!!!!!

The same will likely be true for 95% of East European mother agents who are still on the hunt for lil' Vlada Roslyakovas and too snobbish to realize what's going on.

 

[CharlottefromCA]

Great post Penny I agree on almost all counts, except I actually do like Daphne. I also remember when Aymeline first started.. no showcard.. I was hesitant to start her thread because I wasn't sure if there would be anything even to update, but there was just something about her face that was just too striking to ignore. I also agree about Emily Baker.. great start for her, but she doesn't really stand out to me as much as the other girls in that list, I can see Emily Baker being Ali Stephens version 2.0.

 

[penny609]

Cologne -- very true in many cases. And the worst is that agencies in big markets keep "buying" this from their eastern retailers. The results is indeed these places get overcrowded and this while the pace is extremely fast.

And actually the bigger agencies aren't the only ones to sign too many new faces. Smaller also do, in smaller proportions of course but if you look at the percentage of new girls at some medium-sized agency, it's most likely going to be as high as at IMG or Next. The only one in New York that seems correct on this side is Women... until you realise the main division is only the visible part of the iceberg (then have a look at Supreme and Women Direct, stuffed with newcomers every season and then think of the oversized scouting system based in Milan and all their girls who won't even put a foot on NY's ground).

I think the fact neither mother agencies nor agencies from NY, Paris or wherever are losing money plays a big role in this rather ugly system. It has become a well-oiled industrial scheme where everyone seem to get his money back. Designers and CDs don't want superstars anymore and are fighting for who'll get the most exclusive youngster to open the show or star the campaign? Agencies and their "model dealers" will provide them with as many newbies as they can. All with more and more standardized looks, by the way. One on ten might have a chance to make a decent fashion week, others will end the season in debt. But no one is worried cause a single trip to any asian country will pay back every cent. I guess that's why no one seems to be struggling to build careers for superstars anymore. No one is bothered by the issue except the ones who really care about models, beauty, photography and who enjoyed the thrill once when they saw their favorite models reaching a certain iconic status.

 

[cologne_rocks]

Cologne -- very true in many cases. And the worst is that agencies in big markets keep "buying" this from their eastern retailers. The results is indeed these places get overcrowded and this while the pace is extremely fast.

I can't help to think that all these bland faces are just taken for strategical reason. And I really start to believe this is the case. I think it's rather a form of supplier commitment, to flatter the 'retailers' by taking all of their girls... with the aim to bind the supplier to their own network. So the big agencies make sure the retailer won't give any of his girls to other networks... And big agencies keep fingers crossed that some day the particular motheragent will find a girl who makes up for the failure of too many other girls coming from the same supplier. Like back then when that certain American agency and Elite NY had that 'first option / exclusive' thing going on. Most of these girls failed, but then there was that über blonde Miu Miu girl and made up for the loss. Even if it was just for 2 seasons.

I think the fact neither mother agencies nor agencies from NY, Paris or wherever are losing money plays a big role in this rather ugly system. It has become a well-oiled industrial scheme where everyone seem to get his money back. Designers and CDs don't want superstars anymore and are fighting for who'll get the most exclusive youngster to open the show or star the campaign? Agencies and their "model dealers" will provide them with as many newbies as they can. All with more and more standardized looks, by the way. One on ten might have a chance to make a decent fashion week, others will end the season in debt. But no one is worried cause a single trip to any asian country will pay back every cent. I guess that's why no one seems to be struggling to build careers for superstars anymore. No one is bothered by the issue except the ones who really care about models, beauty, photography and who enjoyed the thrill once when they saw their favorite models reaching a certain iconic status.

Dare you to say that - Asia officially is all made for book development, isn't it?...

 

[Style Savvy]

The Cut's 10 Outstanding New Faces To Watch

1. Kelly Mittendorf
2. Josilyn Williams
3. Corinna Ingenleuf
4. Jess Gold
5. Rosemary Smith
6. Sojourner Morrell
7. Marihenny Rivera Pasible
8. Court
9. Merilin Perli
10. Antonia Wesseloh

 

[cologne_rocks]

Merilin ^ Who is Court?

I kind of don't like those lists.

 

[LiranYana]

final prediction my top 3 :

Kelly Mittendorf
Corinna Ingenleuf
Maud Welzen

 

[Style Savvy]

Maud Welzen? She's not new, tbh.

 

[LiranYana]

^

I know she's not " fresh " and had a couple of seasons already but the thread is about who will sweep s/s 12 shows and it does not mean all should be newbies and Maud is not yet established model so she's still new model in the industry

and also the current trend if we look at aymeline and saskia,
this season doesnt need to be lifeless 15 year olds

 

[cologne_rocks]

^

I know she's not " fresh " and had a couple of seasons already but the thread is about who will sweep s/s 12 shows and it does not mean all should be newbies and Maud is not yet established model so she's still new model in the industry

and also the current trend if we look at aymeline and saskia,
this season doesnt need to be lifeless 15 year olds

But then you mention Maud Welzen?

 

[LiranYana]

^

there are always exceptions like Maud, Daphne, Hailey ...