Prada Not So Crystal Clear
MILAN — With wall projections switching from a sparkling chandelier to a sun-drenched beach, Prada’s collection illuminated the Milan summer 2010 season on Thursday.
Chunks of crystal dripping from shoes or worn as a chain mail over brief shorts competed with prints of life as a beach — an unexpected combination typical to the modern but mysterious vision of its founder/designer.
“Beach and antiquity — high and low — it is all the same,” said Miuccia Prada backstage. “It is supposed to be an ironic take — sometimes nostalgic, for a contemporary take on antiquity for those who don’t understand the beauty of the past.”
But this was Prada’s weird, edgy take on beauty: child women with Bambi limbs, scarlet lips and parts down the back of their messy hair. They came out first in steel-gray silk shorts cut high, the jackets wide, often with a raw edge and a float of fabric at the rear. Transparent plastic bags, perhaps with crystal snaps, competed with the chandelier shoes.
The clothes were as light as the winter collection had been thick and heavy. But there was the same sense of dangerous sexuality, as a model came out in a romper suit under a cape top. The beach theme was an excuse not so much for the palm tree and sunbathing prints as for a sportiness that ran through the collection. Shake off the sparkles — like the open-work crystal dresses that closed the show — and you just had a top and a pair of curvy shorts.
This was one of Ms. Prada’s more oblique collections, for the mismatch of historical glamour and clothes that seemed both ordinary and unfinished were a puzzle. It looked like the designer, who has been showing grown-up clothes of late, wanted to capture an elusive moment of youth.
suzy menkes, nytimes.com