StoneSkipper
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It's really really ugly
Prada: Corridors and Light
By Cathy Horyn
A classical façade ran the length of the runway, dividing the audience tonight at Prada, and the colors and prints evoked the saturated, almost fake tones of a seaside postcard. Backstage, Miuccia Prada referred to hotels with long corridors.
“The Shining?” Well, no. I think she had in mind some old Italian hotel, its wide, sedate hallways and checkered floors seen from the perspective of a child. It seemed a sketchy reference on which to pin a major collection. The opening looks included cropped, fly-away jackets over a longer white T-shirt and Bermudas, in a gray silk and nylon blended fabric. The proportions looked fresh, the edges of some of the garments were left raw, and the new accessories were clear plastic bags and platform sandals and pumps, also in a clear plastic.
Ms. Prada likes to play with tacky elements, mixing them with styles and fabrics that suggest proper old-time couture. That’s been an ongoing Prada story. The spring 2010 collection also had gray floral print mini shifts, jackets with souvenir postcard scenes in blue and purple tones, floaty halter tops, and white stretch cotton T-shirts and briefs worn under jangling layers of hinged clear plastic beads (similar in shape and size to chandelier crystals).
The fabrics and the proportions made the show engaging, but is that what we really expect from Prada? A twist on contemporary street proportions? This collection felt a little incomplete—in concept and variety of shapes. And though raw edges probably seemed compatible with the general, mixed up spirit of the clothes and the bad-girl ponytails, the return of the style disappointed.