Stella McCartney: Mass and class
LONDON Ten years after she graduated from Saint Martins fashion school and set up a fashion business in her Notting Hill home, Stella McCartney is still wearing one of the signature silky camisoles, originally inspired by vintage finds.
But this is not the glamorous little piece that her friend Madonna and McCartney's Hollywood pals have given celebrity credence. And when she steps into her latest design of ultra skinny jeans, topped with an embroidered jacket, they are not plucked from her pretty, pale-colored stores in London, New York or Los Angeles.
Instead, anyone with a few bucks can buy the latest design from this scion of Rock Royalty in their local Hennes & Mauritz store.
"I've always felt there was something wrong about making high-priced clothes - and I am really proud of the quality," said McCartney of her collaboration with H&M that is launched in London on Tuesday and goes on sale Nov. 10. Following in the giant footprints of Karl Lagerfeld, who generated massive publicity and sales to match when he joined up with the Swedish fast fashion store group last year, McCartney is offering her key pieces at prices that range from 29.90, or about $36 - compared to 192 in her signature line - for that camisole and 59.90 for her trademark sexy pantsuit.
Without in any way putting down the luxury label she has developed with Gucci Group since 2001, McCartney admits that the H&M range fits her personal groove.
"There is a merit to having clothes that are not so precious - and I like it all," she said, citing her favorites as the skinny-leg black denim jeans and the dusky blue silky dress with a "laddered" pattern. That looked at its sensual, feminine best modeled by her good friend, Kate Moss, until the firestorm over the model's purported cocaine use caused H&M to defer to its squeaky clean image and pull the ad campaign.
If Moss might have been the ideal image for the clothes, McCartney herself is also their role model. She reduced the 45-piece collection to "the best of Stella," choosing "a big chunky knit cardigan" from her 2001 collection and working on the summer trench coats and black wool or Prince of Wales check tailoring from her college-degree show of a decade ago.
"I find myself personally that I always mix things - a pair of jeans from when I left college with a piece of knitwear I have done now," she said. "I don't just take the current collection. Hopefully it can last more than one season."
That comment refers both to promoting her own classics and to the idea that the H&M partnership might continue in some form, although it is only slated as a one-off. With a gun to her head from Gucci Group, whose CEO, Robert Polet, has given an ultimatum to break even by 2007 to all its emerging brands, McCartney already inked a deal with Adidas and created high tech sportswear imbued with the femininity of soft, dusty colors and sweet decoration.
Margareta van den Bosch, head of design at H&M, said that the company was "thrilled" to collaborate with McCartney.
"Her designs are modern and cool yet classic and wearable - we have long admired her sense of tailoring and femininity," said van den Bosch, adding that research showed that the McCartney tag resonated with consumers.
Inevitably, the McCartney name, that has both bolstered and dogged the designer, is likely to make the H&M range a hit. But could it be more than Lagerfeld's one-season wonder?
McCartney admits that the high/low idea has its perils.
"I don't think H&M has to be just for one season, but it is still a little bit tricky," she said. "My brand has only been going four and a half years in a world of other brands with a real cemented foundation. We have to have solidity at top end. Adidas is pure performance and technical - it has a totally different purpose. There has to be a strategic plan. I was approached by Target and said 'no"' she said, referring to the American company. "If I'm not proud of it or if you start to sell yourself cheap, it's a really touchy one."
McCartney, now the mother of a baby son and married to the design entrepreneur Alasdhair Willis, has outgrown her rock chick image. Her spring/summer 2006 show earlier this month showed a maturing designer. Does she take seriously Gucci Group's implied threat to pull the financial plug on any brand that is not in the black in two years time?
"I'm not sure about that," said McCartney. "To me, we are doing so well. I've never sat down with Robert Polet and said: 'Is that for real?' All I get from everyone - from François-Henri Pinault, chief executive of parent company PPR - is positive and encouraging."