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Victoria’s Secret’s Casting Director on Kendall, Gigi, and Curating the 2015 Show
by JANELLE OKWODU
Few fashion events can rival the Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show in terms of scope and magnitude. With models dueling for spots on the brand’s prestigious runway and millions tuning in on television, casting the show takes on a special significance. For models, an appearance at Victoria’s Secret can serve to introduce them to a whole new audience, kick-starting their careers and putting them on the path to Angel status. The casting lineup at each show is hotly debated, with online aficionados building their fantasy Victoria’s Secret leagues for months in advance and seemingly everyone chiming in with an opinion on who ought to walk. Enthused fans aside, the final decision falls into the hands of John Pfeiffer, a fashion industry veteran with more than 20 years’ experience casting some of the industry’s biggest shows. During fashion month, Pfeiffer handles model selection for everyone from Diane von Furstenberg to Michael Kors, but in the postseason, he and his team are dedicated to the creation of the ultimate Angel squad.
What defines a Victoria’s Secret model is constantly evolving. Over the years, the brand’s runway has featured several incarnations of the Angel, from the refined sexiness of Stephanie Seymour, Daniela Pestova, and Helena Christensen to the Amazonian glamour typified by Gisele Bündchen, Heidi Klum, and Tyra Banks. Pfeiffer has been behind each shift, curating a cast that adheres to the mood of the moment yet retains the brand’s unmistakable aesthetic. 2015’s lineup is as accurate a representation of the current modeling scene as one will find. Led by supermodel mainstays like Adriana Lima and Alessandra Ambrosio, the cast features an array of haute first-timers, including social media stars Gigi Hadid and Kendall Jenner. With a focus on youthful joie de vivre and bombastic personalities to match those oversize wings, this year’s models are bubbly bombshells next door. On the eve of the show’s taping, Pfeiffer talked to us about making the final selections, the impact of social media, and the new faces to watch.
Since the show will be televised, are there concerns you have to address that wouldn’t come into play with a regular fashion show?
One thing that’s different is that we don’t book anyone under the age of 18, which wasn’t always the case. Adriana [Lima] started with the brand quite young, and in the past before the show was televised that would occasionally occur. I don’t think the age thing has to do with the fact that it is televised, per se, but there was a conscious decision made many years ago that we wouldn’t book anyone under 18. That extended to the girls who are shot for the brand, which is an especially important issue right now.
How big a role does personality play in the casting process?
I think personality is one of the most important things. At this level of casting, we’re nitpicking physically because they’re all gorgeous. What makes a girl stand out is her personality, and there are a lot of ways to define it.
The casting process occurs over several days with my team. But on those last few days of casting, when we’re in the room with Ed [Razek], Monica [Mitro], and Sophia [Neophitou] and other people from the brand, camera crews, film crews—that is the first real taste. You see who is going to make it through because you’re seeing a hundred girls; truly, they are all gorgeous, and any one of them could be chosen from that standpoint. What you’re looking for is who captures your attention, who stands out from the crowd. If you can’t do it in that room, you’re not going to be able to do it on the runway.
With both Kendall Jenner and Gigi Hadid walking this year, do you feel social media has played an increasingly important role in the decision-making process?
It would be impossible not to be aware of social media. That fact that you’re aware of it probably colors your judgment in some way even if you strive to be completely neutral and judge the girls only by the guidelines. But I say this truthfully and sincerely: I think Gigi and Kendall make it in based on merit. You can’t deny that they’ve got this incredible following and have great backstories, but they have proven themselves as models. They’re not dilettantes; they’re both professionals.
2015’s lineup seems to be driven by youth, with many in the cast walking for the first time—was that a deliberate choice?
There are 12 girls who are doing the show for the first time this year and it happened organically. We spent the last two days doing the callbacks and whittling it down to the final list, which is a lengthy process. The stakes are so high for the girls because they really make an effort to prepare for the casting, and they want to impress. The stakes are high for us because we want to be making the right decisions. There are a lot of tough choices, but I think really good ones in the end. I’m super happy with every single girl in the show this year.
Among the new faces, who impressed you?
One thing that ties into not booking girls under the age of 18 is that we’re keeping our eyes on certain girls who maybe weren’t old enough last year but came of age this year. Valery Kaufman is one of those girls; this is her first time doing the show, and she is incredible. Bruna Lírio is another brand-new girl—she’s only been in New York for two months and hasn’t even done a show season yet. This is her first big show! She was amazing in the casting, so effortless and charming. She captivated the room.
I’m excited about Pauline Hoarau, who is so divine. It’s Bridget Malcolm’s first time doing the show as well and she looks amazing. I’ve known her for a while, and I don’t know—something happened and she blossomed. I’m also really excited about Leomie Anderson. She did well at the castings last year and just didn’t make that final cut, but she came back this year and wowed the room again.
How does that differ from the experience of working with the girls who have been doing the show for several years now?
It may sound a little cheesy, but sometimes when you see those girls and they come in for those fittings, you just light up. I met Adriana [Lima] when she was 14, and now she’s a mom with two beautiful daughters and has become this incredible woman. I’ve been casting for 20-plus years, so the girls I knew back then were kids. It is wonderful to see them become women, develop and grow as people, create families and be successful.
I wish alessandra and adrianas outfits were more detailed.. i feel as though they were so plain and the hair and makeup too also it would have been awesome if katy perry performed firework at the show for the fantasy bra section!